Just ordered a Brownell's railed receiver. The one without a rail was backordered. They said they were expecting those April 1st! Didn't happen so I thought I better get one while they at least had the railed version. Tech support guaranteed me that it was 0 moa. That was about all the info he had, no specific measurements on any thing else and who makes it is the BIG secret. I guess we will see. Anybody got one yet or any additional info?
All,
I have built up 4 Brownell's receivers into functioning rifles so far... 4 railed and one non railed... have only had to file the receiver a bit to get the proper bolt clearance... have had no other issues than that and have 3 more in the que to build up ...
Anyone know how long the unrailed receivers have been on back order? Every time I check they have railed receivers. Looking at page 1 of this thread from 2018 the unrailed were backordered then too.
Or maybe I just need to buy a railed one and figure out how to machine it off? I'm no engineer and don't own a mill.
So on this Black Friday weekend Brownells has the railed receiver on sale for $80. I am so close to pulling the trigger for 2 new builds. But I keep reading the same things over and over again. These builds are for Steel Challenge so I can't have issues with stucks bolts, needing to modify the rails, etc.
I think that 10$ FFL fee is only if you don't provide them with all of your own FFL's information and make them call your FFL to get adress,phone, and FFl##, at least that was the case last year when I got mine. Also can say my reciever was overall a higher quality piece than the factory ruger recievers I've owned, fit and finish was much better than rugers, especially the interior surfaces and barrel fit.
They wanted to charge me 10 bucks for the in and out on their end. The FFL I use was on file with them, that's when I said I'm never going to buy one from them. They are about 50 miles from me and I don't know if they charge that 10 fee for walk in sales or not.
The $10 fee is a "handling" fee, it applies to the whole order not per item. I selected an FFL that is on their list.
My state will make the FFL charge tax, plus $20 per transfer.
Sure, NOW the plain receivers are available again...but still $109 while the railed receivers are $79 (still on Black Friday sale!)
I'm gonna need to find another bolt setup and trigger group...
I bought another railed last night for the 79 dollar sale price. Final price included the 10 dollar FFL fee even though my FFL was on their list already. + tax w/free shipping it was 95 dollars, I just hope it's as good as the last one I got as I hear quality can wavier a bit. Think I'm gonna make a 28" GM sport tappered this time.
Don't forget the pics. I bought 3 more of them. I guess I'm lucky, not a bad one yet.
Good luck with your build. I always build them as pistols first. Then I can swap when needed.
I bought two, the $10 is total order not per item so makes sense to stock up. Just picked them up from FFL jail. Good to see they come with a v block, since it's not pictured or noted in the listing.
For people who have used the Railed Receiver, does a Ruger OEM metal trigger housing cause your bolt not to move at all when all put together? Bolt moves freely when trigger pack is not installed. I even took out the ejector from the trigger pack.
I'm having a similar issue, Brownell receiver with stock bolt and metal trigger housing. I've taken it apart 5 times. It's not the ejector. I find that mine sticks right as it goes into battery, if I can get it to slide back. If I release at full pull it might go fully forward, if I hold it and slide forward slowly it stops just as the extractor hits the barrel. The extractor is not the problem though. I see the rear corners of my trigger housing have the paint chipped off, not sure if caused by this or if it was like that before install
My set up functions fine. only issue was filing a tiny bit on receiver to make bolt installation easier, but thats seems to be common knowledge here. I have the older metal trigger housing and oem bolt, both worked over by cpc
In trying to help out I Just swapped out a new polymer trigger group with a 1982 (I think) metal trigger group.flawless operation. As the real experts on here will tell you,the metal ones weren’t as precisely made as the newer ones. Correct me if I’m wrong. I will try it in a few more brn-22 recievers I have also and check the operation.
Included pics so I didn’t get scolded. Lol.
In trying to help out I Just swapped out a new polymer trigger group with a 1982 (I think) metal trigger group.flawless operation. As the real experts on here will tell you,the metal ones weren't as precisely made as the newer ones. Correct me if I'm wrong. I will try it in a few more brn-22 recievers I have also and check the operation.
Included pics so I didn't get scolded. Lol.
Don't know if it will make a difference, but maybe I need to try everything swapped over into another receiver.
Or tear down another gun to try the trigger group.
Took it apart and radiused the bolt a bit. That smoothed the action more, but I think I discovered that what was making it hard to retract the bolt, or keeping it from seating fully when sliding it back SLOWLY to rest position, is that the charging handle was catching on some swelling or burrs near the "crimp" at the end of the charging rod that keeps the handle from coming off. I can see why some manufacturers have that end free and the handle can come off when uninstalled, it's not like it will ever come off that end when everything is together.
Yes, the crimp files off easily and makes it a snap to polish the rod. Alternatively, you could compress the handle on the spring completely and polish from the handle up. This will polish the travel area of the handle for those that don't want to remove the crimp.
My problem was that as the bolt snapped back, it would ram the handle onto the crimp. I think the only way to be fully rid of that threat would be to eliminate the crimp, or at least file down the leading edge "wedge" the crimp creates that forces into the handle.
When installed in the receiver, the charging handle never gets that close to the crimp. Look at the position of the handle in the bolt when closed, compare with the length of the rod to the crimp.
I have a few of these and love them! Some have to be polished to allow the bolt to operate smoothly and quickly. I have takedowns and standard ones all with the rail.
IMHO, you cannot beat these for the money!!!!
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