Hey Folks- first off, let me say that I have a full set of Gunsmither 10-22 tools, and I absolutely LOVE them.
If you work on these rifles and you don't have a set, I strongly suggest you take a look at Joe's website and pick up a set. Joe's a great guy, a longstanding, loyal RFC sponsor and has produced some of the most ingenious innovations for working on and building these rifles. His Bolt Bar is THE BEST WAY to install the bolt and charging assembly if you're not experienced with doing so. I and I'm sure many reading this can pop a bolt and CH in and out of a 10-22 in our sleep. That said, it isn't all that easy when you're starting out, and use of the proper tool for the job not only makes it easier, but helps AVOID MARRING OR DAMAGING your rifle. Gunsmither's Safety Tool is indispensable if you ever need to service the safety on a Ruger trigger group. The Gunsmither Barrel Block and new design featuring a beddable recoil lug are proof that Joe is always thinking of new innovations for the platform.
The purpose of this thread is to share a trick I developed when teaching my kids how to install the bolt in a 10-22 receiver.
The DrGunner Credit Card Trick
First off, you need an old credit card or gift card. They're made from different thicknesses, you want one firm enough to do the job but not too heavy or it will get wedged between the bolt and receiver- this will make sense when you actually try this trick.
With a sharp knife like a Utility knife, mark a 90 degree line about 1/4" from the end of the card. Cut the end off of an old credit card or gift card to remove the rounded corners and create nice 90 degree corners.
It turns out the height of a credit card is THE PERFECT LENGTH to hold a 10-22 charging assembly fully open.
This trick works with factory and aftermarket charging assembly's, factory and aftermarket bolts, and factory and aftermarket receivers- with only one issue-
When using it on a matched aftermarket receiver with CNC bolt, such as Kidd/Kidd, tolerances are very tight. It works, but requires use of as thin a card stock as you can that will still hold the charging handle back.
I have successfully used it with Ruger, Tactical Innovations, Rimfire Technologies, Heier Custom and several styles of Kidd charging handles.
I've also successfully tested it on Ruger, Tactical Innovations, Heier Custom, JWH Custom and Kidd bolts.
Finally, Ive successfully tested it on Ruger, Tactical Machining, Kidd, Tactical Innovations and Razor receivers.
Below are a series of pics describing what I mean on a Kidd charging assy in a TM receiver.
First, cut off the card as described above.
Next, install the charging assembly in the receiver. Pull the charging handle all the way back. The act of grabbing and pulling the charging handle back without the bolt in the receiver places an eccentric load on the charging handle, causing it to lever and scrape along the charging rod. I've found it best to start with the barreled action upside down on the bench. First, I pull the charging handle back about 1/2", then place the tip of my RIGHT index finger on the leading edge of the charging handle at its center inside the receiver, and push it all the way back. At this point, I hook my LEFT index finger onto the charging handle outside the ejection port, with my thumb hooked around the back of the receiver. I'm able to hold the charging assembly with the spring fully compressed with my left hand only.
It would be at THIS POINT that the credit card is installed.
Then I install the bolt, rear first and pushing the front down onto the charging assembly.
Then, while hold gentle downward pressure on the front of the bolt, slowly release the charging handle. It will click into it's slot in the bolt, then maintain pressure to ensure that the bolt drops in above the ledge that defines the inferior margin of the ejection port.
The only difference using the card is that you will need to hold downward pressure on the bolt while working the card free from between the bolt and receiver.
Rocking the card front to back works best. As I said, in some applications there is little to no room for the card trick to work, and a Gunsmither Bolt Bar is best used.
Personally, I only use this trick to teach my kids, and they both use it to assemble thier 10-22s because their hands are too small and lack the strength needed to assemble the action without help.
The rest of the pics are self explanatory.
After you've removed and installed a 10-22 bolt enough times, you'll be able to pop it in and out quickly and consistently with your left hand on the charging assembly and right hand on the bolt with no problems.
Hope this helps-
DrGunner
If you work on these rifles and you don't have a set, I strongly suggest you take a look at Joe's website and pick up a set. Joe's a great guy, a longstanding, loyal RFC sponsor and has produced some of the most ingenious innovations for working on and building these rifles. His Bolt Bar is THE BEST WAY to install the bolt and charging assembly if you're not experienced with doing so. I and I'm sure many reading this can pop a bolt and CH in and out of a 10-22 in our sleep. That said, it isn't all that easy when you're starting out, and use of the proper tool for the job not only makes it easier, but helps AVOID MARRING OR DAMAGING your rifle. Gunsmither's Safety Tool is indispensable if you ever need to service the safety on a Ruger trigger group. The Gunsmither Barrel Block and new design featuring a beddable recoil lug are proof that Joe is always thinking of new innovations for the platform.
The purpose of this thread is to share a trick I developed when teaching my kids how to install the bolt in a 10-22 receiver.
The DrGunner Credit Card Trick
First off, you need an old credit card or gift card. They're made from different thicknesses, you want one firm enough to do the job but not too heavy or it will get wedged between the bolt and receiver- this will make sense when you actually try this trick.
With a sharp knife like a Utility knife, mark a 90 degree line about 1/4" from the end of the card. Cut the end off of an old credit card or gift card to remove the rounded corners and create nice 90 degree corners.
It turns out the height of a credit card is THE PERFECT LENGTH to hold a 10-22 charging assembly fully open.
This trick works with factory and aftermarket charging assembly's, factory and aftermarket bolts, and factory and aftermarket receivers- with only one issue-
When using it on a matched aftermarket receiver with CNC bolt, such as Kidd/Kidd, tolerances are very tight. It works, but requires use of as thin a card stock as you can that will still hold the charging handle back.
I have successfully used it with Ruger, Tactical Innovations, Rimfire Technologies, Heier Custom and several styles of Kidd charging handles.
I've also successfully tested it on Ruger, Tactical Innovations, Heier Custom, JWH Custom and Kidd bolts.
Finally, Ive successfully tested it on Ruger, Tactical Machining, Kidd, Tactical Innovations and Razor receivers.
Below are a series of pics describing what I mean on a Kidd charging assy in a TM receiver.
First, cut off the card as described above.
Next, install the charging assembly in the receiver. Pull the charging handle all the way back. The act of grabbing and pulling the charging handle back without the bolt in the receiver places an eccentric load on the charging handle, causing it to lever and scrape along the charging rod. I've found it best to start with the barreled action upside down on the bench. First, I pull the charging handle back about 1/2", then place the tip of my RIGHT index finger on the leading edge of the charging handle at its center inside the receiver, and push it all the way back. At this point, I hook my LEFT index finger onto the charging handle outside the ejection port, with my thumb hooked around the back of the receiver. I'm able to hold the charging assembly with the spring fully compressed with my left hand only.
It would be at THIS POINT that the credit card is installed.
Then I install the bolt, rear first and pushing the front down onto the charging assembly.
Then, while hold gentle downward pressure on the front of the bolt, slowly release the charging handle. It will click into it's slot in the bolt, then maintain pressure to ensure that the bolt drops in above the ledge that defines the inferior margin of the ejection port.
The only difference using the card is that you will need to hold downward pressure on the bolt while working the card free from between the bolt and receiver.
Rocking the card front to back works best. As I said, in some applications there is little to no room for the card trick to work, and a Gunsmither Bolt Bar is best used.
Personally, I only use this trick to teach my kids, and they both use it to assemble thier 10-22s because their hands are too small and lack the strength needed to assemble the action without help.
The rest of the pics are self explanatory.
After you've removed and installed a 10-22 bolt enough times, you'll be able to pop it in and out quickly and consistently with your left hand on the charging assembly and right hand on the bolt with no problems.
Hope this helps-
DrGunner