Rimfire Central Firearm Forum banner

Will std velocity ammo cycle a 10/22 action?

4K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  Chaser 
#1 ·
My Ruger 10/22 does not cycle standard velocity ammo with any reliability so I'm wondering if I am feed it the wrong ammo.

High velocity ammo cycles 8 to 9 time out of 10, that is I will get one and sometimes two stovepipe jams per magazine.

I do have a new after market extractor on order which I believe will solve the jams with the HV ammo.

My rifle is the blue steel heavy barrel, laminated stock target model 1121.
I would have thought that standard velocity ammo should cycle the action with more reliability.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Welcome to RFC!

It should.. it CAN.. but, several things need to happen.. squeeky clean is the first thing.. inside of the Rec. on some/most are RUFF.. they need some love with a ScotchBrite/AKA CrotchBrite pad and some oil ... https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473575&highlight=CrotchBrite

Then good Lube.. Oil causes MUDD .. the best Lube on the market for 10/tweekie2's is this.. Spray on and wipe/clean.. then once clean spray it on all metal to metal and let it dry.. don't wipe.


Now, the OEM handle/rod/spring is suspect and it's the 1st thing I replace...

KIDD is #1 ... I run the Std. spring for all my Std. Velocity and they run fantastic..

https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Bolt-Handle-Charging-Assembly-With-Guide-Rod-Springs_p_34.html

Also.. be aware the Chamber needs scrubbed approx. every 300-400 rounds on a OEM barrel.. a BoreSnake is great for the bore but does nada/nothin for the chamber.. this is your friend.. with Hoppes#9 it will keep it from causing all kinds of issues... https://gunsmithertools.com/shop/ols/products/xn-brush-n-mop-chamber-tool-gl1p
 
#4 ·
Welcome to RFC!

It should.. it CAN.. but, several things need to happen.. squeeky clean is the first thing.. inside of the Rec. on some/most are RUFF.. they need some love with a ScotchBrite/AKA CrotchBrite pad and some oil ... https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473575&highlight=CrotchBrite

Then good Lube.. Oil causes MUDD .. the best Lube on the market for 10/tweekie2's is this..

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473575&highlight=CrotchBrite

Now, the OEM handle/rod/spring is suspect and it's the 1st thing I replace...

KIDD is #1 ... I run the Std. spring for all my Std. Velocity and they run fantastic..

https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Bolt-Handle-Charging-Assembly-With-Guide-Rod-Springs_p_34.html
Good advice.

I change the bolt and recoil spring/guide rod at the same time.
Having done this many times, but not as much as Chaser, I just use all Kidd internals and barrel with heavy duty receivers.
 
#6 · (Edited)
All my 10/22’s until recently had the stock guid rod,charging handle and bolt. I never had an issue with cycling once the guid rod and receiver were broke in so to speak.
Even my after market guid rod has a standard spring.
I have no issues with cycling......

Now they have JWH guid rod bolt combo kits in them. They are smooth as silk.

"The biggest communication problem is we don't listen to understand, we listen to reply"
 
#7 ·
I only shoot Subsonics in my 10/22s. Zero issues cycling and zero jams. All do have atleast radiused stock bolts and scotch brite done to receivers. Light polish of bolts. Also One Shot as mentioned. I spray in one shot if it seems to start getting dirty or sticky. Runs great afterwards.

Goodluck
 
#9 ·
What is the first 3 numbers of the serial number for dating the rifle. The older ones were better in my opinion but in the 2005 to 2012 timeframe they started a lot of cost cutting and a lot of tings like rough guide rods and paint overspray in the receivers etc affected functioning. I would suggest 2 things. 1 buy a kidd guide rod and install the reduced power spring. Second I would also suggest you get a few different grits of sandpaper and chamfer the bottom rear of the bolt that rides back over the hammer. Put a bit more gentle radius on it from the bottom flat to the bolt stop recess. I wouldn't go to crazy but this is an old trick to get subsonics to run in a 10/22. Most will cycle CCI standard velocity but if you go slower it may not run without mods.
 
#10 · (Edited)
A rear radius on the bolt WILL advance the timing.. and for Sub's/Std. Velocity it is usually a go.. with High Vel. and Hypers ya may wanna/need to step up the charging handle spring IF you go to a full rear-radius... these rifles are all about perfect/or near perfect timing.

Chamfering the 10/22 Bolt : https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251031
 
#13 · (Edited)
To the op is it a new rifle? Is it one you've had for a while and are just starting to experience problems with cycling? Or is it a new to you used rifle?
The rifle is new old stock. I got September 2019. The label on the end of the box has a 2015 date stamped on it.

I have after market extractor and firing pin on order.

Yesterday I put a slight radius on the bottom rear edge of the bolt.
Mostly just removing the pock marks left by the sand casting process.
400 grit aluminium oxide paper, follow up with 2000 grit paper the radius shines like a mirror now.

Also I have removed the heavier gun oil and grease from various areas on the bolt sliding path in in the receiver. Hornady dry lube replaced the "wet" oil and grease.

I may need to sand the metal areas on the magazine that have sliding contact with the cartridges. The sand casting use on the metal feed lips on the mag are very rough.

I test the rifle next week before I start adjusting the mags.
 
#12 ·
I don’t know what I’m talking about and don’t have my trigger group to show you but maybe this helps..
there is a scissor? Spring thing that if it’s not in the right place in the trigger group it causes cycling of the bolt to be sticky and create jams stove pipes etc.
all my 10/22s stock and built and different chambers cycle CCI semi auto quite and that’s 835fps stuff.
I have some Eley target that jams some in a bentz chamber but is extremely accurate.
I think it’s just the right dirty chamber in that case.
Cycle your bolt manually with some sort of super light compound like liquid cleaning wax a 1000 times sitting on the couch. When It smooths out take your gun apart and clean it up. Put it back together with some dry lube and it should run awesome.
A smooth trigger group, smooth action and bolt, and a cleaned chamber should have no problem cycling everything but really slow ammo like CCI quite 730fps stuff.
Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#14 ·
I've had to fight with mine since it was new (2000) but there's one area I haven't looked at yet...

The hammer spring.

Mine started life as a Target model. I wonder if their hammer spring was heavier?

When it does fail to cycle, the bolt doesn't open up enough to grab another round... even with a smoothed out receiver, Kidd bolt and recoil spring rod with the LIGHT spring in it.

When I swapped out the factory trigger for a Kidd years ago, the feeding issue went away immediately.

Now, when using the factory trigger in it, it fails. Again. With many subsonic ammos.

The only difference I can think of is the hammer or hammer spring.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I shoot nothing but Subsonic ammo in both my 10/22s. One will actually fire a complete magazine of SS ammo without any extractor (Done as a test) and never stovepipes. The other has the internals polished, the bolt radiused, a Kidd trigger, a VQ extractor, doesn't like Ruger magizines and will still stove pipe when the chamber on the Lilja barrel is squeaky clean. After about 10 rounds when a bit of lube gets in the tight chamber then it behaves well. The problem is not the extractor, it is friction. The 10/22 is a blowback action and as such doesn't need an extractor. It's there to extract live rounds. Yes they sometimes help and sometimes don't. Until I installed the Kidd trigger it pretty much didn't have a problem. But the Kidd trigger has a much heavier hammer spring to reduce lock time and that extra "friction" sent that rifle over the edge. I've never tried a lighter recoil spring but to be sure I would change the bolt stop pin to plastic instead of steel if shooting HV ammo.
 
#17 ·
Wether or not a 10/22 needs an extractor or not is definitely up for debate. I've seen and heard of countless people who were having all sorts of problems with stovepipes, doubles, FTE's, FTF's, etc. that all seemed to magically go away with the addition of an aftermarket extractor. I fully understand how a 10/22 works and am aware that they can be run without an extractor some times without issue. But it certainly seems to help many people get their 10/22's to be reliable.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I have installed a polyurethane “Tuffer Buffer” it was my first mod as it was such a cheap and easy to do mod.

I hope the bolt doesn’t bounce off the new plastic buffer pin with enough velocity to cause some weird timing issue.

Today I spent a little time smoothing the inside of the receiver.
Gave all the parts a re-spray with the Hornady dry lube.
Manually cycling the bolt feels much improved, faster and slicker now.

A Burris Droptine 22LR 3-9x40mm with a 50 yd parallax scope in Burris signature rings with minus 15 MOA off set bushings installed in the rings.

Once the new after market extractor arrives and I put a brick or two of ammo through it I hope stovepipe jams will be a thing of the past.
 
#19 ·
I have installed a polyurethane "Tuffer Buffer" it was my first mod as it was such a cheap and easy to do mod.

I hope the bolt doesn't bounce off the new plastic buffer pin with enough velocity to cause some weird timing issue.

Today I spend a little time smoothing the inside of the receiver.
Gave all the parts a re-spray with the Hornady dry lube.
Manually cycling the bolt feels much improved faster and slicker now.

A Burris Droptine 22LR 3-9x40mm with a 50 yd parallax scope in Burris signature rings with minus 15 MOA off set bushings installed in the rings.

Once the new after market extractor arrives and I put a brick or two of ammo through it I hope stovepipe jams will be a thing of the past.
All good... 'cept this part "Burris signature rings with minus 15 MOA off set bushings installed in the rings." = that makes me wonder.. 2 things.. why ? And did you do it in sets/pair... ?
Like this ? ...
 
#20 · (Edited)
The Burris offset bushing were used to make the scope tube tilt downward 15 MOA.
Which compensates for the natural ~100 yd bullet drop.
I didn’t use up 15 MOA of the scopes vertical adjustment range to get POI to match POA at 100yds. Just a few scope clicks to adjust for the ammo used.

I could have used the normal zero offset bushings and installed the scope on a weaver rail that was milled with 15 MOA tilt built in but I already had the rings and an offset bushing kit on hand. So I used the Ruger OEM supplied rail and uses the bushings to get the desired MOA pre-adjustment.

Minus 5 MOA bushing installed in the front ring and plus 10 MOA installed in the rear ring as per the direction supplied with the offset busing kit. This tilts the scope tube downward 15 MOA so the cross hairs are pointing down were the bullet will impact the target out a 100yds.
 
#24 ·
The Burris offset bushing were used to make the scope tube tilt downward 15 MOA.
Which compensates for the natural ~100 yd bullet drop.
I didn't use up 15 MOA of the scopes vertical adjustment range to get POI to match POA at 100yds. Just a few scope clicks to adjust for the ammo used.

I could have used the normal zero offset bushings and installed the scope on a weaver rail that was milled with 15 MOA tilt built in but I already had the rings and an offset bushing kit on hand. So I used the Ruger OEM supplied rail and uses the bushings to get the desired MOA pre-adjustment.

Minus 5 MOA bushing installed in the front ring and plus 10 MOA installed in the rear ring as per the direction supplied with the offset busing kit. This tilts the scope tube downward 15 MOA so the cross hairs are pointing down were the bullet will impact the target out a 100yds.
ALL GOOD.. if you used them in sets.. both the Plus and the Minus.. :bthumb:
 
#21 ·
I own 4 10/22s at the moment. All 4 cycle standard velocity ammo. When a gun doesn't work it should be returned to the mfg for repair. You are letting them off the hook when you repair it yourself. I too am guilty of trying to repair new guns that don't work because I hate to return them but this is why they continue to ship substandard guns and there are a lot of them. I'm more surprised if a new gun works than if it doesn't.
 
#22 ·
If you send your 10/22 back to Ruger they're not going to radius your bolt, smooth out the inside of your receiver, or install an aftermarket tool steel extractor and firing pin (all things that should be done if you own a 10/22). So while sending it back to Ruger may or may not get the rifle to cycle properly they're not going to address any of the shortcomings in the 10/22 design. It's about $20 and an hour of your time to do everything that the op has done. That's alot better than several weeks at Ruger to get back a rifle that still has all OEM parts.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top