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  #1  
Old 05-01-2004, 03:18 PM
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10/22 modifications without new parts?



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I'm bringing home my first 10/22 tomorrow, the 22" stainless Walmart special! I don't have any new parts, and probably won't have a chance to order any before I take it out shooting, but what mods can I do to stock parts? Is there a feed ramp to polish, sear parts to polish, etc? I'm planning on getting the target hammer, but until then I don't think I'll be able to leave it alone. Thanks in advance!!!
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  #2  
Old 05-01-2004, 04:12 PM
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Well you can sand out and free float the barrel, or you can use a dremel to create your own auto bolt release. You can also bed the action while you free float the barrel, heck there is a ton of stuff you can do for mods without needing to buy exspensive parts. My suggestion is to use the search feature here and look up things like I mentiond, here are some key words:

Bedding
Free Float Barrel
J.B. Weld Trick
Pressure Point
Tuners
Stoning a hammer
Polishing Hammer & sear
Overtravel Screw
Homemade Mag Release
Homemade Bolt Release
Barrel Break-in
Cleaning
Dry Lube
Accurize

As you can see the list goes on and on. What you deffinately need to do is a search on every word or phrase that I have put above and read as much as you can. Hopefully that will answer most of your questions and it will probally start some new ones, but at least you have a jump on it. Again please read the topics as I am not doing this to sound mean but rather give you the best head start you can have. Also good luck with your new rifle and welcome to the RFC.
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  #3  
Old 05-01-2004, 07:27 PM
ruger22com

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattz357
I'm bringing home my first 10/22 tomorrow, the 22" stainless Walmart special! I don't have any new parts, and probably won't have a chance to order any before I take it out shooting, but what mods can I do to stock parts? Is there a feed ramp to polish, sear parts to polish, etc? I'm planning on getting the target hammer, but until then I don't think I'll be able to leave it alone. Thanks in advance!!!
Absolutely the first thing you want to do is tear the entire rifle down, and do a DEEP cleaning. Ruger puts some weird grease/preservatives (especially in the receiver bolt areas) in, and if you shoot a while without removing them first, they get hard and REAL NASTY. so just break it all down. and use a good degreaser (I like the citrus orange based ones). If you have never tore one down before, feel free to go to www.ruger22.com (one of my sites) where I have detailed instructions and clear digital photos showing each and every step of the way. get some dry lube (teflon based) for the action, and maybe a touch of lithium grease for the hammer & sear contact points.

This initial clean-up is a Must-do. have fun!

ruger22com
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  #4  
Old 05-01-2004, 08:56 PM
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I have been using CLP exclusively on all my pistols (this is my first rifle) for years, will that continue to be an acceptable procedure? Is the dry lube somehow superior to CLP or other lubricants? Thanks!
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  #5  
Old 05-02-2004, 01:10 AM
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I highly recommend you DO NOT Stone your sear or hammer if you never attempted it.
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  #6  
Old 05-02-2004, 07:41 AM
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Having modified the triggers in several of my pistols, I'm pretty confident in my ability to do so. That being said, I also know my limits and don't care to get myself into something I can't get back out of. I might POLISH some of the trigger parts, but no STONING will take place. Thanks for all the advice, keep it coming!
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  #7  
Old 05-02-2004, 09:40 AM
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Mattz,

I started off using CLP too, but I switched to dry lube pretty quick. CLP seems to stay a little too wet, even after wiping "dry", and attract all sorts of nasty crud. I'm a noob too, but I've had good like with dry teflon (Remington), Aerosol moly (messy), and miltec (dunno what it is)--none have caused any problems for me.
Ruger22com's website is very, very helpfull, I've consulted it for almost everything I've done to my 10/22. Check it out.

Regards and happy shooting,
pwharve
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Old 05-02-2004, 08:46 PM
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"I highly recommend you DO NOT Stone your sear or hammer if you never attempted it."

how would you ever learn how if you never try it?
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  #9  
Old 05-02-2004, 10:11 PM
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Militant,

That statement was in regards to the part of his post stating ,"I don't have any new parts, and probably won't have a chance to order any before I take it out shooting, but what mods can I do to stock parts?"

If he feels comfortable stoning the hammer and sear then thats his choice. As a gunsmith I do not recommend it. Let say he stones it and it does fine. Great he did a good job. If he stoned the hammer and sear and went a bit excessive making the rifle unsafe, then he will have to wait for new parts before he can start really enjoying his new firearm.

He posted after my statement he felt comfortable, but many people do not. And for safety it is NOT unreasonable to recommend to those, NOT to stone thier hammer and sear. By all means if anyone wants to learn, thats fine and stoning the parts is a good learning experience.

Just remember smithing any firearm can and should be fun, but safety should come first. I recommend taking it out to enjoy shooting a new firearm first before attempting mods, so if you do get in a bind and have to wait on parts, atleast you got to shoot it and enjoy first.

Just My Opinion!!! Happy Shootin
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  #10  
Old 05-03-2004, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruger22com
Absolutely the first thing you want to do is tear the entire rifle down, and do a DEEP cleaning. Ruger puts some weird grease/preservatives (especially in the receiver bolt areas) in, and if you shoot a while without removing them first, they get hard and REAL NASTY. so just break it all down. and use a good degreaser (I like the citrus orange based ones). If you have never tore one down before, feel free to go to www.ruger22.com (one of my sites) where I have detailed instructions and clear digital photos showing each and every step of the way. get some dry lube (teflon based) for the action, and maybe a touch of lithium grease for the hammer & sear contact points.

This initial clean-up is a Must-do. have fun!

ruger22com
In addition:

Ruger 10/22 > Ultimate 10/22 > Hey Chief Dave: (& Everyone else ...

One of my websites on it is at (Shooter Solutions) www.molyfusion.com/molyfusion1.html

Jonathan Doege
Sponsor.
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  #11  
Old 05-03-2004, 08:08 AM
ruger22com

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Quote:
Originally Posted by techshooter
One of my websites on it is at (Shooter Solutions) www.molyfusion.com/molyfusion1.html

Jonathan Doege
Sponsor.
Glad you mentioned this. I have heard a lot of people mention the moly treatment as a great thing after initial break-in. But even after going to the site I am a little confused. Some people have said "moly-PASTE" did wonders when applied to contact point between sear and hammer.

What are the differing forms of moly? paste, oil, regular, ?????, and what are the applications for each. actually, (so I won't draw any heat) I might suggest the sponsors area as a better place to carry on a thread of this subject matter, but I really am interested.
Thanks.

ruger22com
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  #12  
Old 05-03-2004, 11:06 AM
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What are the differing forms of moly? paste, oil, regular, ?????, and what are the applications for each. actually, (so I won't draw any heat) I might suggest the sponsors area as a better place to carry on a thread of this subject matter, but I really am interested.
Thanks.
ruger22com[/QUOTE]

Hi (ruger22com)
Welcome to RimfireCentral.com!
I notice you are "new" here (1/2004).

As the "moly" statement, I suggest mfusion or molyfusion rather then moly - I know moly-fusion is long especially with the dash, but moly is frequently used to mean (the black) moly-disulphide powder.

The paste is the pure thing, and the treatment oil concentrate that is advertised is 1/8 Molyfusion and sells for just the MolyFusion portion, since it is "end-user licensed". (Because it is a "technology" (it works) like software is, it is not sold, but end-use licensed.) The treatment-oil contains 1/8 by volume MolyFusion so it can retail competively ounce per ounce ($6/1 oz; $18/4 oz.) MolyFusion being a difference - not the price: the "retail" side of stuff. It also has viable uses both by itself and with MolyFusion - the pure stuff.

I hope the above helps satisfy your interest in the difference.

Sincerely,
Jonathan Doege, my opinion.
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  #13  
Old 05-06-2004, 01:31 PM
newfiebullet

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auto bolt release and improve trigger (no new parts)

Hi guys,
Two things that I've done with mine that I'm very happy with is file the point off the bolt release to make it auto bolt release (got info on this forum) as well as improve the trigger. I'm no gunsmith and not very handy really but after I took the gun apart I could see where the creep and heavy trigger was being created. I removed the hammer and got out the dremel (a very small file might be wiser). I filed the point on the hammer that the sear lips sits into. Caution: I would suggest doing it a little at a time then putting it back together and testing to see the results. It would be very easy to go overboard. You only need to remove such a small amount that you have to be careful. The end result is no creep and a trigger pull of probably 1 - 1.5 pounds (a guess). To ensure it was safe, I would try and push the hammer ahead manually, it would not go. Also, I cocked the bolt and banged the butt stock off a book I had laid on the floor as hard as I could without damaging the stock. It did not go off. I'm confident it is safe. As I said I am no gunsmith but these two mods are very simple and the results are fantastic.
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2004, 06:16 PM
Patagoochie

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Thank you Crewchief,
I was wondering the same thing myself.

Gooch
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