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Old 08-14-2019, 10:43 PM
Misfit-45
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First attempt at bedding the receiver and barrel



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Hi Folks,
I used Acraglas for the bedding material. You will notice that I did not bed the bedding pillar area. It seemed to be a bit of overkill, plus, the warning of not bedding the "V block" area made me a little nervous. I can still go back and "FINISH" the job if the consensus is to do so. Should I run a thin layer of material around the post flange with a little going over the ledge into the magazine area? Or maybe I should just bed the little area from the flange to and over the magazine area and not the whole flange area.
Opinions welcome.
Marv

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Old 08-14-2019, 11:49 PM
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Shoot it first. Good ammo, more than one range trip, then decide.
Iíve bedded my share of 10-22s, I used to bed the entire TD area, and still do
on some stocks, but many that Iíve done in the last year or two look just like yours, with two important exceptions-

1) I use a Watts 683A pillar, which has a 3/4Ē flange that pretty much spans the entire TD area side to side. IF the VBlock extends below the front tang of the receiver, I remove it and mill off enough material to remove all contact and reinstall it.

2) I donít bed any of the barrel channel unless itís a sporter/taper barrel. 9 out of every 10 that Iíve built have bull barrels, ALL of them have a Kidd rear tang, bedded with the rear of the receiver using Devcon 10110.

Yours looks like quality work, you should be proud.

See how it shoots before messing with anything-Iíve seen many rifles that shot just fine ruined by work that only covers the minutiae, and is often more cosmetic than mechanical. If your current pillar is flush with the surrounding wood, and makes full contact with the escutcheon below, my bet is youíre done. Good job.

Remember- ďGoodís worst enemy is BetterĒ.


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Old 08-15-2019, 05:58 AM
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First attempt at bedding the receiver and barrel

What is a good source for the Watts 683A fittings? No longer sold in my area .
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Old 08-15-2019, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bullseye4845 View Post
What is a good source for the Watts 683A fittings? No longer sold in my area .
I buy them online, either on Amazon or plumbing suppliers...

Oops!!!!

It’s A683, and they have them here for $2.80:

https://www.chicagofaucetshoppe.com/...-017000683.htm

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Last edited by DrGunner; 08-15-2019 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 08-15-2019, 08:56 AM
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For the price and ready to go........
https://www.raveneyecustom.com/produ...2-extra-length
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Old 08-15-2019, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by RCP Phx View Post
For the price and ready to go........
https://www.raveneyecustom.com/produ...2-extra-length
I've used one of those. Well the normal length one not the extended linked. They work very well.
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:16 PM
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I’m sure the Raven Eye aluminum pillars work fine for y’all, looks well-made and perfect dimensions. I’ll stick with my A683, brass is substantially stronger and I prefer to use the same metal as the lower escutcheon, I use the big fat VQ ones or mill my own as shown below.
I tap all my 10–22 receivers to 1/4-20. Not drill & tap, just tap. Drilling removes material that is needed to cut full depth threads.
On deeper stocks, I mill my own lower pillar from a Watts A683
There are many acceptable ways to do this job, I don’t claim to do anything but what works best for me.





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Old 08-18-2019, 02:52 PM
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Bedding the Volquartsen post, adapt and overcome

Hi Folks,
I showed how I bedded the receiver and barrel ahead of the V block in the above posts.

I had not bedded the area around the "top hat" for a couple of reasons. Now I decided to do so...somewhat. The first picture shows what I ended up with. My receiver is old and has a trough which seems to help stabilize things, once bedded. Not conventional, but I think I'll work.



This picture shows a side by side of the stock and barrel. You can see that the top hat in the stock would cover both the receiver and the "v" block.

However, the "V" block is not flush with the receiver. As a result, the top hat only contacts the receiver. That's not necessarily a bad thing, that's just the way it is.



Using a flat washer (about the same size as the top hat), you can see that the top hat does not contact the "v" block.


There are a few optical illusions in the top two pics. Everything is straight and true, and the second picture looks like there is a trough in the bedding, there's not.

The way I did it will mostly eliminate any fore and aft movement. It think it will be fine. Thanks for your help and input.
Marv

Last edited by Misfit-45; 08-18-2019 at 02:55 PM. Reason: SP
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Old 09-02-2019, 06:33 PM
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Hi Folks,
I finally got out to the range this Labor Day. I mounted up the Tasco and shot at 25 yards so I could see if I could figure out how to shoot.
As suggested on this forum, I shot at a rock to see where the scope was taking me. That worked pretty well. Made some adjustments. When I shot the targets, I was no more than an inch off. Since I'm still new at this, so we won't talk averages, but here's my best group.
Marv
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Old 09-03-2019, 08:00 AM
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Who ever told you to shoot at a rock should turn their weapons in
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shamokinbob View Post
Who ever told you to shoot at a rock should turn their weapons in
Actually it was a broken piece of clay pigeon, but haven't you noticed that every time you shoot a target, the bullet will likely hit a rock eventually? At least that's the way it is in my neck of the woods, aka rocky foothills.
Marv
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:53 PM
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Oh I know what you mean, I shoot into the banks here in the stripping pit of Pennsylvania, but I dont intentionally shoot at rock for sighting purposes
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