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Old 05-21-2019, 05:27 PM
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no4mk1t
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How to Make Your Rim Fire Suppressor Easy to Clean



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Rim fire suppressors get dirty. We all know that.
Cleaning them is also a chore as the lead and carbon adhere to the bare metal baffles and require aggressive methods to remove.
With a little preparation, you can make this headache much less of a chore.

If the baffles and interior of the tube is coated with a silicone oil, the ca-ca won't stick to it. Some have reported good results using ordinary DOT 5 silicone brake fluid available at auto parts stores. (don't get the DOT 5.1 as it is not silicone)
Better results are attainable using a standard (cst 50) viscosity silicone oil about the same consistency as pancake syrup. This can be found on the internet. Amazon even has it in consumer quantities.

Coat the clean baffles by dipping in the oil and letting the excess drip off prior to assembly. Use a Q-Tip to swab inside the end cap and mount.

Below are some pics of how effective this is.

This was right after 1200 rounds of CCI Patriot Pack polymer coated ammo. The shiny spots are where I touched it with a Q-Tip.


The suppressor was re-assembled without cleaning and continued to be shot during squirrel season with conventional (non polymer coated ammo) and was disassembled for cleaning 7 months later. The residue had dried, but brushed off the exterior surfaces pretty easy. The interior of the baffles was dirtier, but much less so than with lead ammo.
These went into the tumbler with the SS pins to get them cleaned for the next test.


Once the CCI Clean SV ammo came out, I cleaned the baffles, re-applied the silicone oil, and shot 500 rounds. Disassembled the can the same day. The residue resembled grease.


Literally 5 minutes with a paper towel and a few Q-Tips and it was ready to be re-oiled and assembled.


The next test will be with CCI SV to see how effective it is at keeping the lead from bonding to the inside of the baffles. This is where most of the build up occurs.
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Old 05-21-2019, 06:55 PM
openspaces
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That certainly looks promising. Couple questions.

1) I clean my guns after every outing, but not my suppressors. Any idea what would happen if not cleaned for a 2-4 weeks with this treatment?
2) did you notice the barrels were affected by this? As in any of the “grease” blown back into barrel?
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Old 05-21-2019, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by openspaces View Post
That certainly looks promising. Couple questions.

1) I clean my guns after every outing, but not my suppressors. Any idea what would happen if not cleaned for a 2-4 weeks with this treatment?
Just a guess, but I don't think a couple of weeks is enough for it to dry completely out. It may not be as wet as the pic shows, but it shouldn't be as dry as the 7 month pic shows either. I think you'll be fine. Even dry the fouling brushed off pretty easy.

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2) did you notice the barrels were affected by this? As in any of the “grease” blown back into barrel?
No, not at all. Dry as a bone. I looked for it. Actually, I was looking to see how much fouling the CCI Clean ammo left in the bore, and found it very clean and dry.
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Old 06-11-2019, 02:44 PM
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Tumbler with steel pins. No fuss and very easy..
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:09 PM
openspaces
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Originally Posted by Maine04657 View Post
Tumbler with steel pins. No fuss and very easy..
I did this with my spectreii and it seems like the baffles are easier to assemble and do not mate as tight as before.

Possibly perception becoming reality but it seemed like the edges/baffles were “eased” from the tumbling.


They did come out pretty good though. I was picky about getting almost everything clean. I now believe in a less than perfectly clean suppressor is quieter than a spotless one. (Not because it is or is not, but because it’s easier)
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:45 PM
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This procedure was developed by RRDVegas a few years ago. His website is no longer online, but if I remember correctly for best results you have to heat the clean silencer components in your oven before dipping them in the Slicone brake fluid. I can't remember the exact temperature he suggested, but I imagine 200-250F should do it.
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Old 06-11-2019, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by GladesGuy View Post
This procedure was developed by RRDVegas a few years ago. His website is no longer online, but if I remember correctly for best results you have to heat the clean silencer components in your oven before dipping them in the Slicone brake fluid. I can't remember the exact temperature he suggested, but I imagine 200-250F should do it.
The first time I used the oil, I heated them per his instructions in the oven.
The next time it came apart for cleaning, I used a heat gun and warmed them up for a minute or two apiece. Didn't appear to make any difference.
This last time, I didn't heat them at all before applying the oil. We'll see if it matters.

What seems to make the most difference is cleaning before the baffles dry out. It's just a matter of wiping the internals and reassembling then.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:11 AM
ryanr256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GladesGuy View Post
This procedure was developed by RRDVegas a few years ago. His website is no longer online, but if I remember correctly for best results you have to heat the clean silencer components in your oven before dipping them in the Slicone brake fluid. I can't remember the exact temperature he suggested, but I imagine 200-250F should do it.
The Internet Wayback Machine has an archive:

https://web.archive.org/web/20141225...-cleaning.html


-Bob
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:32 PM
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This stuff works best on my titanium can, but the first couple of shots after cleaning look like I fired a muzzle-loader (smoke down-range).




Last edited by SavagePlinker; 06-12-2019 at 02:21 PM.
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