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  #1  
Old 08-24-2019, 10:55 AM
dogfood
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Buck Mark ejector ... ever replaced one?



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My old Buck Mark Bullseye (circa 1996) has got ... I don't know ... 20K through it, maybe? It's been very reliable to this point, but now I'm running into one or two FTEs per box.

I've got it apart and the tension on the extractor is good. But the ejector is rather wobbly. It moves enough that it drags on both the top and side of the clearance slot in the breech face. Apparently this has been going on for a while, as there's a wear pattern on the ejector itself.

So I'm thinking a new ejector is in order - and I have a new one on hand. But how do I get the old one out - and then the new one in? None of the schematics I have show this level of detail. The ejector appears to sit in a slot, where it's subsequently staked. Is that all there is to it?

Does anyone have firsthand experience with this?

[Side note: Running CCI mini-mags. Have been running these for a long time. It's not an ammo problem.]

Thanks,
dogfood
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  #2  
Old 08-24-2019, 12:20 PM
DGF

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I think Tandencross(Tandemcross) has a video of them replacing the ejector
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  #3  
Old 08-24-2019, 03:14 PM
RUSTY OLD COLT
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Buckmark Extractor

Just replaced my extractor in the Buckmark with a Volquartsen extractor they had them in the markdown section on their website . Was pretty easy to do , found a few nice YOU TUBE videos . When you do it work inside a plastic bag with the slide the spring and detent like to fly.
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Old 08-24-2019, 04:12 PM
dogfood
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Thanks for the feedback, but ...

Quote:
Just replaced my extractor in the Buckmark with a Volquartsen extractor they had them in the markdown section on their website . Was pretty easy to do , found a few nice YOU TUBE videos . When you do it work inside a plastic bag with the slide the spring and detent like to fly.
I have an ejector problem ... not the extractor. I've done extractors on both Buck Marks and Rugers - and as you noted, they're fairly easy to do. But I need help with the ejector.

Quote:
I think Tandencross(Tandemcross) has a video of them replacing the ejector
I'm not finding any video on the Tandemkross website relative to replacing a Buck Mark ejector. Not surprising, as it doesn't appear that they sell a replacement ejector. Also not finding anything on YouTube.

I have to believe somebody has had to replace an ejector at some point. Certainly I can't be the first one, right?

Thanks,
dogfood
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Old 08-24-2019, 04:38 PM
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ms6852
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See if any of these help.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6wz_LYI4BQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQcFSu1TFFI
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Old 08-24-2019, 04:44 PM
dogfood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ms6852 View Post
Good videos if you need to replace an extractor ... but again ... I need help with the ejector.

dogfood
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:50 PM
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Check with Chim.

He has a lot of experience with Buck Marks.

Iíve changed one on an International Medalist. It was a Bi*** getting it out.
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:51 PM
chim
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That's one part I don't recall ever replacing. I do have a memory of staking a loose one somewhere along the way.
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..............chim

Buck Mark Disassembly/Reassembly Page here:

http://chim.embarqspace.com/#
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogfood View Post
Good videos if you need to replace an extractor ... but again ... I need help with the ejector.

dogfood
Oops my bad!
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:59 PM
rdas
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If the ejector itself (the S-shaped piece of wire) isn't actually broken, why not just re-stake the one that's already in there? Once it stops wobbling, you can bend it just enough to stop rubbing the slide. FWIW, I think it's pretty common for it to rub against the slide.

If you don't want to try your hand at staking, maybe consider putting a drop of epoxy in there as an alternative to staking? I've never tried it; just an idea.

Let us know what you do, and how it goes. I'm curious.

Dave
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:43 PM
dogfood
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Ok, first off, I hadn't had this pistol stripped to the bone in a long time. So many thanks to rdas and chim for the stickies at the top of this forum.

Once the guts were out, I got a better feel for the problem. I know some BMs may be different, but my ejector just sits in a slot (not retained by the hammer pin) - and yeah, it's staked. Well, the old one didn't want to come out. And the problem is, in order to reswage the originally staked material out of the way, you really need the working part of the ejector out of the way.

As rdas noted, why not just restake the existing one? My thought as well. The ejector shows wear from rubbing, but it's not broken. So I did the staking - and then some rebending to get a hair's worth of clearance in the slide slot. That was easy enough with everything else out of the way.

And I replaced the mainspring - because I figured I might as well, given I already had all the works out.

It works in the basement with empties. We'll see how it functions at the range. Worst case scenario, I have a pretty good idea what I'm up against if the ejector really does require replacement.

Thanks all,
dogfood
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2020, 10:53 AM
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Buckmark Extractor

Videos on utube dont show the small pin you have to push out just behind the ectractor. Just about drove me crazy till I noticed it. After removing it came apart easy as per videos.
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Old 01-23-2020, 12:21 PM
rdas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erick View Post
Videos on utube dont show the small pin you have to push out just behind the ectractor. Just about drove me crazy till I noticed it. After removing it came apart easy as per videos.
erick... this thread was about the ejector (S-shaped wire staked into the frame on the left side), not the extractor (claw hook in the right side, held by the slide). If you want instructions and photos for removing and reinstalling the extractor try this: http://guns.dsttr.com/BuckmarkSubass...html#extractor

I also have a follow-up for this thread, though. Since this thread was written (5 months ago, in Aug 2019), my favorite Buckmark had the ejector wire come loose, causing the occasional stovepipe.

I modified a small flat head screwdriver by cutting a slot up the middle and then filing the sides to the proper width. The slot allows it to straddle the ejector wire.
I put the frame into a padded vice, placed the modified screwdriver over the ejector and onto the existing staking indentations, being careful to hold the screwdriver straight up, and gave the back of the screwdriver a couple medium-weight whacks with a small hammer. That tightened the ejector wire right up.

Then I took the slide and placed it back onto the frame and slid it fore and aft to check the position of the ejector wire. I adjusted the wire (by bending it) so that it sticks out the top-inside corner of its slide groove as the slide moves backwards, without scraping too hard against the slide. Only a very small adjustment was needed in my case.

That was a couple months ago, and I've fired around a thousand rounds through the gun since then (3 matches, plus practices, plus training juniors), and the ejector wire is still tight and the stovepipe issues have not reappeared.

Let me know if you have any questions about this process.
Dave

P.S. I modified a screwdriver for this, rather than just using a regular steel punch and staking each side separately, because I wanted to compress both sides at the same time with the same amount of force, thus keeping the ejector wire as straight as possible in the frame. Using a regular punch on each side would probably work, but might require more adjustment afterwards.
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  #14  
Old 01-23-2020, 12:43 PM
NoSecondBest
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At one time (quite a while back) I had three of the circa Buckmarks (silhouette) and replaced two ejectors. Very simple. Just pull up on it and it will come right out of the hole. IIRC, both were broke on the bottom and the remaining wire was straight which allowed the ejector to "spin" in the hole and it wasn't hitting the case correctly. I had a bag of parts back then and it was a case of simply pushing a new on in. You can drill a new hole and put on in the new hole if the hole has become enlarged. It will work fine if you do that.
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Old 01-24-2020, 03:10 PM
rdas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSecondBest View Post
At one time (quite a while back) I had three of the circa Buckmarks (silhouette) and replaced two ejectors. Very simple. Just pull up on it and it will come right out of the hole. IIRC, both were broke on the bottom and the remaining wire was straight which allowed the ejector to "spin" in the hole and it wasn't hitting the case correctly. I had a bag of parts back then and it was a case of simply pushing a new on in. You can drill a new hole and put on in the new hole if the hole has become enlarged. It will work fine if you do that.
My experience is with ones that are a piece of wire that is approximately S-shaped (as seen in photos in RFC Thread 307740, or at Numrich), and placed into a slot (not just a hole) in the frame and then staked into place. So pulling it straight up out of the frame would require sufficient force to un-deform the frame where it was staked (which would probably mangle the wire pretty badly in the process).

Here's a photo where you can see the slot the ejector fits into. The slot is in the shadow of the punch being used to depress the mainspring, but you can still see it.

Here's a photo where you can see the indentations in the frame on either side of the ejector where it was staked into the frame.

And here's a top-view of the staking indentations.

Those pictures are of a 1992 Target 5.5 model Buckmark.

Hopefully, you can see how using a small screwdriver modified to straddle the ejector (described in my previous post) could be used to re-stake an ejector that has become loose in the frame, but is not broken.

Dave
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