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  #1  
Old 01-16-2020, 10:52 AM
GrampawEd

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Buckmark triggers adjustable?



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Have four Buckmarks in the family. All have great triggers out of the box with the UDX being exceptional. Recently added a RX Pro Target 5 1/2" Camper. Operates well but the trigger has creep and is very heavy. Do we just shoot it until it improves or try to get it adjusted? Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 01-16-2020, 01:59 PM
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There is no adjustment on a Buckmark trigger for creep. You would probably have to alter the sear or hammer notch to reduce creep. Not something I would care to undertake. I installed a Tandemkross Gearbox in mine and noticed some improvement. It also lightened my trigger pull by about 1 lb. Best $29.00 you can spend on a Buckmark.
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Old 01-16-2020, 03:48 PM
rdas
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Shooting a few thousand rounds will certainly help, but there are quicker things to try. The Tandemcross Gearbox or flipping the sear spring (the Heggis flip) will reduce the trigger pull weight, and might make the creep less heavy.

I'd check the back of the disconnector, and smooth it out if it's rough (a piece of 2000 grit sandpaper on a piece of plate glass works well for this). I'd also check to see if the magazine disconnector safety wire is dragging on the disconnector during the trigger pull (if it is, use needle nose pliers to open up the loop, just don't move the top of the loop higher).

And, of course stoning the sear and hammer will help, too. For a nice clean let-off, the rear-top edge of the hammer hook and the front-bottom edge of the sear need to be straight and square and free of burrs. For a smooth, consistent trigger pull, the mating surfaces (top of hammer hook, bottom of sear) need to be smooth and flat.

While you have the hammer and sear out of the frame, check to see if they are rotating freely on their pins (they should), and check to make sure they are not able to wobble too much on their pins, and also check to see if they are obviously rubbing against the inside of the frame (particularly the sear).

For less creep distance, there are several things to try. First, there is the light weight "take up" in the trigger, as you move just the trigger and disconnector until the back of the disconnector notch starts applying pressure to the sear. That can be reduced by trying different disconnectors until you find one with a better notch placement, or by hitting the disconnector with a ball peen hammer to push the rear of the notch forward, or by preventing the trigger from moving forward so much in the first place (test with a piece of tape between the top front of the trigger and the frame at the top of the trigger guard, but JB Weld would be a more durable and permanent solution). You need a little take up to ensure reliable trigger resetting, but not much.

Once the disconnector engages the sear, the creep distance is controlled by the dimensions of the hammer and sear. It's easier to file/stone the hammer hook to be shorter, but don't file the part above the hammer hook at the same time (that will maintain the creep distance, and, worse, change the angle of the hammer hook).

Link to a photo showing how the internal parts, including the sear and hammer, sit in relation to one another.

Hope that helps,
Dave

Last edited by rdas; 02-05-2020 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 01-16-2020, 05:27 PM
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I have 2 Buckmarks, 1 is my benchrest pistol, and the other is my steel challenge. Both have Tandemcross triggers. They really improve the trigger, and you can adjust the pull weight.
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Old 01-16-2020, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BR54 View Post
I have 2 Buckmarks, 1 is my benchrest pistol, and the other is my steel challenge. Both have Tandemcross triggers. They really improve the trigger, and you can adjust the pull weight.
I too installed a Tandemkross 'Victory' trigger, and found it dropped the trigger's pull weight a bit. This is probably mostly due to more force being applied at the bottom of this straight-faced trigger rather than at the center of the arc on the factory trigger.

The TK trigger IS NOT adjustable for pull weight, however, It's single adjustment screw is for adjusting overtravel. It is also not adjustable for pre-travel (Ie. take-up), but I found my trigger needing no adjustment whatsoever.

Other than stoning and polishing fire control surfaces—chores best not left to beginners—there are only two other ways that I'm aware of allowing the pull weight to be decreased.

The first was discussed earlier, the TK 'Gearbox' kit. I guess it at least partially delivers on it's claims.

The other is to perform a Heggis flip on the sear spring. This is controversial to say the least based on other forum discussion, but I'm convinced that those with disappointing results have performed the flip incorrectly. There's only one video on how to do the 'flip' and you shouldn't have any problems finding it with a Goodgle search.

As for 'creep', I believed I lessened it a bit by removing the mag safety disconnect bar. If nothing else, it cured my trigger reset problems prior to installing the new trigger, etc.

The gun now sports a 2 lb. 1 oz. average pull weight with a crisp, clean let-off. That puts it in very good company among my S&W 41, High Standards and Ruger Comp. Target. In fact, I shoot it more than all of the others combined.

Last edited by coltlog; 01-16-2020 at 07:15 PM.
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  #6  
Old 01-16-2020, 07:11 PM
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I have the Tandemkross Trigger in my Buckmark. It has an overtravel adjustment, but as far as I know there is no adjustment for trigger pull weight.
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Old 01-16-2020, 07:11 PM
johnrr65

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdas View Post
Shooting a few thousand rounds will certainly help, but there are quicker things to try. The Tandemcross Gearbox or flipping the sear spring (the Heggis flip) will reduce the trigger pull weight, and might make the creep less heavy.

I'd check the back of the disconnector, and smooth it out if it's rough (a piece of 2000 grit sandpaper on a piece of plate glass works well for this). I'd also check to see if the magazine disconnector safety wire is dragging on the disconnector during the trigger pull (if it is, use needle nose pliers to open up the loop, just don't move the top of the loop higher).

And, of course stoning the sear and hammer will help, too. For a nice clean let-off, the rear-top edge of the hammer hook and the front-bottom edge of the sear need to be straight and square and free of burrs. For a smooth, consistent trigger pull, the mating surfaces (top of hammer hook, bottom of sear) need to be smooth and flat.

While you have the hammer and sear out of the frame, check to see if they are rotating freely on their pins (they should), and check to make sure they are not able to wobble too much on their pins, and also check to see if they are obviously rubbing against the inside of the frame (particularly the sear).

For less creep distance, there are several things to try. First, there is the light weight "take up" in the trigger, as you move just the trigger and disconnector until the back of the disconnector notch starts applying pressure to the sear. That can be reduced by trying different disconnectors until you find one with a better notch placement, or by hitting the disconnector with a ball peen hammer to push the rear of the notch forward, or by preventing the trigger from moving forward so much in the first place (test with a piece of tape between the top front of the trigger and the frame at the top of the trigger guard, but JB Weld would be a more durable and permanent solution). You need a little take up to ensure reliable trigger resetting, but not much.

Once the disconnector engages the sear, the creep distance is controlled by the dimensions of the hammer and sear. It's easier to file/stone the hammer hook to be shorter, but don't file the part above the hammer hook at the same time (that will maintain the creep distance).

Link to a photo showing how the internal parts, including the sear and hammer, sit in relation to one another.

Hope that helps,
Dave
+1
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  #8  
Old 01-16-2020, 07:40 PM
coltlog

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Heggis Flip Video

Here's the link to the video on performing the Heggis 'flip' on the BM's sear spring.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwm6BL_H5GY A Star is Born!
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  #9  
Old 01-18-2020, 02:31 PM
GrampawEd

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Heggis flip.

Well, after watching the video, I finally took a chance on these 85 year old shaky fingers and did the "flip." To my immense surprise, everything went back together without requiring the usual help from my gunsmith friend. Haven't fired the BM yet but dry firing surely seems to have improved the trigger pull. Thanks to all who replied.
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Old 01-19-2020, 12:35 PM
flphotog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrampawEd View Post
Well, after watching the video, I finally took a chance on these 85 year old shaky fingers and did the "flip." To my immense surprise, everything went back together without requiring the usual help from my gunsmith friend. Haven't fired the BM yet but dry firing surely seems to have improved the trigger pull. Thanks to all who replied.
Doing the flip is extremely easy, however reversing it back to the original is a bit bigger job.

I've done both because at least in my opinion while the flip did reduce trigger pull it also made it inconsistent.
I think the TK gearbox is a much better solution. lightens pull is also gives you a consistent pull.
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  #11  
Old 02-05-2020, 11:24 AM
Monster Man
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TK Trigger and gear box sear spring

I did the "flip" several years ago, and the last time I had the Buckmark out, after the first shot the trigger would no longer fire the pistol. I was dreading tearing into the pistol again, as I vaguely recall having a tough time initially doing the flip. While searching the forum for the instructions for installing the sear spring, I stumbled onto this thread. After seeing the TK videos, I have ordered the TK trigger and gear box sear spring. From the video I viewed, it will be a straight forward installation.....at least I hope!
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