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  #16  
Old 02-28-2021, 05:58 PM
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Horsefly,
I think your explanation was spot on, just your measure quote was error but with this auto correct/insert that is to be expected nowadays. I have learned to reread as I have found many inserted/replaced words that were not typed.
It was good of you to mention when you take away from one spot other spots need to be accounted for also as you explained the barrel move back so must the reciever front to move as well as the front "stud" of the v block so it can be snugged properly. not sure how cutting the v block would move it backwards to take up the movement of the barrel that moved backwards.
Anyway, good comments to think about.
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2021, 06:01 PM
Mike_AK
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Best 10/22 barrel I ever had was a Clark. I sold it to finance a Lilja. Mistake.
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  #18  
Old 02-28-2021, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Baby Automag View Post
Horsefly,
I think your explanation was spot on, just your measure quote was error but with this auto correct/insert that is to be expected nowadays. I have learned to reread as I have found many inserted/replaced words that were not typed.
It was good of you to mention when you take away from one spot other spots need to be accounted for also as you explained the barrel move back so must the reciever front to move as well as the front "stud" of the v block so it can be snugged properly. not sure how cutting the v block would move it backwards to take up the movement of the barrel that moved backwards.
Anyway, good comments to think about.
Triming this area would .
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2021, 08:02 PM
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Triming this area would .
Yep. Way easier than trimming the receiver. Of course, no matter what you trim you end up with out of spec parts that won't play well in other builds. Probably best to trim the least expensive part, the V block, instead of the receiver.
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  #20  
Old 02-28-2021, 08:11 PM
Mike_AK
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Cool story. I wonder what, if anything, it has to do with a single post in this thread, other than the title.
Well, the original post was about factory and aftermarket barrels for the Ruger 10/22. My post was about two aftermarket 10/22 barrels. If you cannot see the relevancy, then there is nothing I can do to help you there. Have a nice day.
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  #21  
Old 02-28-2021, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobbo4030 View Post
Triming this area would .
That may be an option but I haven't tried that one. Nor will I likely try it. I use the Gunsmither Bed Blocks as I find it as far superior part to a common V-Block.

Actually, the one I use the Gunsmither Bedding Block.

Trimming/Bobbing to the part of the receiver where the v-block is bolted too takes a few strokes of a good file to take off a few thou. Do it all the time & never had an issue!

I do appreciate your idea though, may have to play with it some! Good idea!
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  #22  
Old 03-01-2021, 01:47 PM
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bobbo,
Thanks for taking the time to explain and even post a pic of your idea/way to approach the issue of adjusting that .02 trim. This also has a very sound reason as I also like the idea of trimming a easy to replace item/less costly piece. I hate to touch the base item also even if a couple of files run across the face of the receiver and receiver stud face to sets this issue straight it might cause future new replacement parts issue. My thinking and feel free to correct me as that is how we learn, I take no offense here.
I would trim the shoulder back on the barrel instead of touching the face of receiver and then use your idea of trimming the block middle area. This would solve both issues to set the barrel proper and you only modified easy to replace least costly parts. I love learning more about this simple Ruger 10-22 that has a lot of engineering behind it. I'm sorry I don't know more about the other "V" blocks options or specs of why/what they help fix.
Thanks to all who posted their view, it helped me learn, understand and appreciate this board as being helpful
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