10/22 bull barrel whip amount?

[Nedsled]

Hi so I added a JB Weld cradle at the end of my stock to allow for placement of a barrel pad towards the muzzle.

I did this just so I can experiment. It's a Kidd 20 inch stainless bull barrel, and all I've read is that they like to be free floated, but every gun is different so I figure at some point I might play around with it. If it helps, great. If it doesn't, just remove the pad.

So to explain, it's still free floated, just with a JB Weld cradle that will allow me to create and install permatex pad if I want. However, the cradle only has about 1-1.5mm of gap between it and the barrel.

Is that enough gap or is it likely to whip into contact with the stock upon firing?

I've looked at some slow mo vids on youtube and I cannot detect any noticeable barrel movement, at least nothing like you can see on AR15s, but anyone know any different?

If it's not clear what I am talking about, this picture has another cradle I created. The new one is just at the end of the forearm.
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...1&d=1613166490

[Toomany22s]

The point of a bull barrel is that its so thick it cant whip. Well at least not like a standard barrel could.

What can happen is that because of the poor inletting on some stocks the receiver can rock up and down like a teeter totter over the one action screw. So your barrel could hit your stock .

I have found the best place for a pressure pad on my bull barrel 1022 s is at the other end right where the barrel firs climbs into the barrel channel .

I use a pressure pad up front by the muzzle in addition , on standard taper barrels.

In all cases I aluminum tape bed the receivers so they are darn tight in the stocks.

[Kilerham]

I haven’t played around as much as many here but I find with a 10/22 that the barrel does well bedded and secured in the stock.
Both bulls I’ve had I bedded a blob of JB weld in front of the block and at the end of the fore end. Resting in the bed.
I even put rubber bands around the barrel and stock to prevent if happened vibrations away from bed. Same with my long pencil barrel.
Of course these guns are not rear tang bedded and are not ultra lights.

It’s all about dampened vibration.
If ruger receivers were steel and I could use a real action bed like center fire I would think different.
Some folks can bed a ruger action. I haven’t tried anything but rear flat of the action in JB weld and tape bedded the sides. But in my opinion it’s not enough to support floating barrel vibrations.


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[Nedsled]

Originally Posted by Toomany22s

The point of a bull barrel is that its so thick it cant whip. Well at least not like a standard barrel could.

What can happen is that because of the poor inletting on some stocks the receiver can rock up and down like a teeter totter over the one action screw. So your barrel could hit your stock .

I have found the best place for a pressure pad on my bull barrel 1022 s is at the other end right where the barrel firs climbs into the barrel channel .

I use a pressure pad up front by the muzzle in addition , on standard taper barrels.

In all cases I aluminum tape bed the receivers so they are darn tight in the stocks.

Thanks. FWIW this is what the gap looks like, as well as a couple pics of the overall barrel pad strategy. I've got one close to the receiver (like you mentioned) which I have used to good effect in the past. The new one is for "why not try it" purposes.

I've got the rear stock bedded. No rocking at all. I CAN squeeze the forearm and barrel into contact but that's more the stock moving than the barrel moving.

The picture make the gap look larger than it is IRL, because of angle and lighting. Kinda bugs me but I suppose just let me shoot it first and see if any issues.

[2500X]

I full length bedded the bull barrel on my 10/22 and it shoots very well that way.