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  #31  
Old 02-21-2011, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenneth View Post
22AGS,
Stupid question to you - how did you clean up that 67 bolt handle so well? Thanks for any info you can provide!
Elbow grease, 220, 400, 600, 1200, and SemiChrome polish. Took about an hour. Be sure to notice that tip from JWA about using a Brass Tumbler.
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Last edited by 22AGS; 02-21-2011 at 07:35 AM.
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  #32  
Old 02-21-2011, 07:51 AM
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Thanks so much for this post, this has taken me to a new level.

Joe
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  #33  
Old 02-21-2011, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by wvjoetc View Post
Thanks so much for this post, this has taken me to a new level.

Joe
I do appreciate your input wvjoetc, sometimes I feel like I have about four friends who follow along, and we're doing this just for ourselves. Nice to hear there are others out there learning something. If you take a strong interest in other points not mentioned on this thread but pertinent to the goal of a new looking gun, do a search with my name as thread maker, there are several other "how-to's" over the past few years on guns worse than this one that turned out alright. Most are here in the Winchester board, but the worst ever is a model 34 Remington which now resides in my friend Flysalot's stable.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=290576
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=359484
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=370730
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=332561
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Last edited by 22AGS; 02-21-2011 at 08:22 AM.
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  #34  
Old 02-21-2011, 03:17 PM
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Draw Filing

Next up, getting rid of the pitting that plagues any barrel covered badly in rust. The pits are usually deep into the metal, and absolutely MUST be removed in order to stop the rust from growing. Don't kid yourself, it will come back if you do a halfass job. If you are trying to resurrect a rifle barrel that is in good enough shape to not need draw filing, you are probably messing up a collectible. Where's your SELF-RESPECT? You need to be working on a Rusty Dawg, one you can be proud of!
The method is to run a mill bustard (a type of bird ) file, 10" is perfect, with a handle, from one end to the other, 'rolling' the file around the radius as you go. This avoids flat spots, which is a very common mistake when you try to scrub out a hole locally. Looks like hell when you look down the barrel,full of ripples, like those $99.99 Auto Paint Specials.
The file needs to be kept clean, either by using chalk to keep the filings out, or by the use of a fine-tooth wirebrush. Otherwise it will cease to cut and just skip over the metal, giving you more problems. You must have a vise, with something to clamp the barrel into without marring. And you will require patience. Just keep thinking of how perfect the gun will look when your friends run a critical eye over the finished product later. The final job should have all the lines going in the same direction, and not deep enough to leave any telltale scratches that stick out amongst the overall texture. When you think you are finally done, HA, take it out in the sunlight with a Sharpie and think again.
This is the only way to be thorough and eternally proud of your job. A little extra work here will last for the duration of the gun's life, so do it right.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Here's a rather cluttered bench in the background, but showing how I hold the file at a diagonal to the barrel. The filing has to be uniform, and the file must be laid down flat on the steel. Just a light even touch end to end, or as far as you can go in one direction before swapping ends.

Another look

Now I'm really giving away secrets. Use the Sharpie to spot the missed places.

And while you're at it, Sharpie out the roll marks and proof on the barrel, it is extremely easy to go to sleep at the wheel and file right through these vital markings.
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Last edited by 22AGS; 02-21-2011 at 03:23 PM.
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  #35  
Old 02-21-2011, 03:34 PM
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Looking good! Who took the pictures? Or is that one of them newfangled "shoulder cams"?
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  #36  
Old 02-21-2011, 03:46 PM
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This is great stuff! I have to say that chalk is your friend when using a file. As soon as you feel the file start to load up, clean it out with a brush and reapply the chalk.
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  #37  
Old 02-21-2011, 04:43 PM
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"This is great stuff!"
Second the sentiment!!
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  #38  
Old 02-21-2011, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
Looking good! Who took the pictures? Or is that one of them newfangled "shoulder cams"?
My three-legged friend took them, set for a 10 second delay. I should smile more. Like this--

Glad you other guys are also enjoying this project, I am learning a ton myself. And for you smug guys with a wire wheel, enjoy watching me do everything the hard way by hand. There are definitely easier ways to do the steel, but I will get my result too. And this is work.
I went back over the barrel and receiver (one piece on the 67) with paper--100 mostly, and it took forever to smooth everything out. Buffed it like I was shining shoes. But it is now on the hooks, rusting away with the Pilkington's Rust Bluing. That last gun I did, a Remington 12, worked out very well by leaving the first coat on there for three days, and by gosh I'm gonna do that again. It will turn rusty red by midnight, then just kinda 'steep' till I'm ready to boil it up to black.
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  #39  
Old 02-21-2011, 05:52 PM
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And remember to blame JWA if these photographs are stupid, he said he wanted lots of pictures. Just for fun I got out my rare earth magnet and swept the floor underneath where I did the filing. This is about 1/3 of what I picked up, so you can imagine what it would be like if you tried to employ sandpaper only to get the job done.
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  #40  
Old 02-21-2011, 06:03 PM
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There is no such thing as a stupid photograph, only stupid photographers.

My fingers are aching just looking at all the work you have done in the photos.

Let's see, you have addressed the stock, bolt and barrel - you must be getting close to the end.

This has been a GREAT project on an iconic single shot. Again, I really appreciate the effort you put forth in sharing the pictures and tips throughout the whole process. We're gonna have to tack this one up on the sticky board.

Regards,
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  #41  
Old 02-21-2011, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22AGS View Post
My three-legged friend took them, set for a 10 second delay. I should smile more. Like this--

Glad you other guys are also enjoying this project, I am learning a ton myself. And for you smug guys with a wire wheel, enjoy watching me do everything the hard way by hand. There are definitely easier ways to do the steel, but I will get my result too. And this is work.
I went back over the barrel and receiver (one piece on the 67) with paper--100 mostly, and it took forever to smooth everything out. Buffed it like I was shining shoes. But it is now on the hooks, rusting away with the Pilkington's Rust Bluing. That last gun I did, a Remington 12, worked out very well by leaving the first coat on there for three days, and by gosh I'm gonna do that again. It will turn rusty red by midnight, then just kinda 'steep' till I'm ready to boil it up to black.
Cant wait to see more details about this!
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  #42  
Old 02-21-2011, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
There is no such thing as a stupid photograph, only stupid photographers.


Regards,
You'll pay dearly for this, mister.

You're totally correct JW, the two hardest things are done: 1) putting that bolt back together in a way that actually works and B) all that finger-fatiguing work on the barrel. Everything else has been documented before, and is like a walk in the park. I have tried in this thread to show some of the other stuff that is a part of the entire process, and am enjoying creating it. Glad to be appreciated.
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  #43  
Old 02-21-2011, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlysAlot View Post

(Oh btw I got a flat today, first time in a LONG time about 3 miles from the bike store...)
New Michelin tube
New rim tape
new tire liner
$300
Oh well
Yeah, you say stuff to my facebook that most would hold back out of sheer fear--but always say it once you've hit the service ceiling of your Citation, somewhere north of 40,000 feet at 450 mph, isn't it? As to your misfortune of the day, that is for expressing yourself this morning in such a shockingly harsh way. I'd be nicer to your elders if'n I was you.
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Last edited by 22AGS; 02-21-2011 at 08:24 PM.
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  #44  
Old 02-21-2011, 08:01 PM
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Leftovers. I've been concentrating so hard on whipping the barrel and bolt into shape that I forgot how ugly this thing was to begin with. These bits and pieces brought me back to earth. Prescription is straightforward, buff, shine, clean, blue. The trigger however will get the same treatment as the bolt did.

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Last edited by 22AGS; 02-21-2011 at 08:09 PM.
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  #45  
Old 02-21-2011, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
I agree, we should formalize the procedure. Here is my method; I lightly place the tip of the awl in the grain prior to the repair and trace it up to the repaired area then try to continue the faux grain across the repair by pressing harder on the awl. I continue past the repair area with the awl to continue a groove into the existing grain on the other side. Prior to applying finish I use a black pen to trace the groove and leave some ink in the bottom of the grooves extending on both sides of the repair. After staining and finishing the darker valleys of the faux grain grooves provides additional depth to the coloration and seems to help blend the repair into the surrounding material even better.

It sounds like your process is similar and both should work fine. It's amazing how much text two anal guys can generate on a simple stock ding repair...

Keep up the great work! I am thoroughly enjoying the pictures and write-up.

Regards,
Having now played some with the wood, I have to admit that the method that works with this shellac stick filler is a little different than I described earlier. The shellac is too brittle to cut cleanly, it tends to chip out. So my solution on this gun is a hybrid approach, using the shellac, then the blade, and finally a porous wood filler, minwax in this case. I followed this recipe up with a particular walnut stain from Brownells that I really like, and after a few coats of finish the color blend and the gloss factor look like they're gonna be a winner.
And yes, I feel like a gun nerd. Maybe we should get ourselves some white shirts with plastic pen holding pocket protectors.
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