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  #1  
Old 07-27-2009, 05:46 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
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Light Strikes



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Bought this:

VC2TT/VC3TT Volquartsen Ruger Mark II / III Adjustable Target Trigger

from Rimfire Sports, installed it in a Tactical Solutions upper while removing the LCI & mag safety, it worked but the hammer had slop and would rattle. So I finally installed this:

988783 1 $14.99 Clark Custom Hammer Bushing Kit

Rattle gone, but now it has light strikes (all ammo types). Pull out the bushing and try to isolate the malfunction source? So what to replace next? VQ Hammer? I hear it is lighter and might even be worse? New firing pin? I can only find MarkII titanium pins, will they work on a Mark III? New stiffer mainspring? Who has them? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated-thanks!
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  #2  
Old 07-27-2009, 06:38 PM
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Is the hammer binding?

Remove the bolt and the barrel receiver and check to see if the hammer is free.

Sounds like it is binding on something. When the sear releases the hammer check to see if the lower section of the hammer is rubbing on the sear.

If it worked before installing the after market parts then something with the parts is causing the light strikes.
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:47 PM
kingshouse41225
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I am not completely familiar with how tightly the Clark bushing fits. I made my own and it looks different than the clark bushing. You probably have some binding somewhere. Remove the mainspring and upper and try the hammer by hand. It should freely pivot with no binding. It is normal for hammer strut rivet head to (barely) touch the safety lever. If it is rubbing it (the rivet head) can be polished. Ideally there should be no slop between the hammer and bushing and between the bushing and the pin but one or both needs to turn freely.

Changing to a lighter hammer will make the problem worse.

Check your trigger adjustments to make sure the hammer is not dragging on the sear as it falls. You need SOME pretravel and SOME post travel. It is easier to check your adjustments with the lower assembled (minus mainspring) and the upper removed. At the correct pretravel screw adjustment you should still feel the sear rubbing on the hammer as you bring the hammer back, and at the correct post travel adjustment you should not feel the sear rubbing on the hammer at all as you move the hammer by hand (while holding the trigger back).

Make sure the hammer is in the same position (side to side) with the clark bushing as it was with the original bushing/lever/spring in place. The hammer should not be centered; it is offset to the left slightly, as is the cup in the mainspring housing.

If the end of you hammer strut is rough it would help to polish it, but roughness there would not suddenly cause light strikes unless the hammer position is also shifted.

Sounds like you did not touch the firing pin, so you should not. Only look at what you changed.

Last edited by kingshouse41225; 07-27-2009 at 06:51 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-27-2009, 06:49 PM
kingshouse41225
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Looks like both me and recumbent were both typing the same response at the same time.....
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingshouse41225 View Post
Looks like both me and recumbent were both typing the same response at the same time.....
We must have been.

one thing else, check to be sure the hammer pivot pin has not worked out of the hole on the right. The left grip panel holds the hammer pivot pin in place.
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:50 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
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Umm, I also did the VQ edge extractor so I did take the firing pin apart-but I think I put it together correctly. Can you put it together wrong (backward firing pin)? If I take it apart and clean the crap out of it (brake cleaner clean), it might shoot one or two mags worth, but even those have light strikes.

It's difficult to isolate what caused the light strikes without shooting-I don't have a backyard range here in the burbs and stripping all the way down at the range is less than ideal, but I think it was hammer bushing when I first noticed the problem. I ordered the trigger & then ordered the bushing because I was bothered by the rattle without it. I just cannot remember if I shot it between installing both pieces.

If I pull the trigger all the way back, the hammer does not "drag" on the sear, but it does drag if I do not depress the trigger all the way, only pulled the trigger until it breaks/fires-could that slight drag slow the hammer enough to be the problem?
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Old 07-28-2009, 12:46 AM
kingshouse41225
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1. Firing pin absolutely cannot be installed backwards.

2. Hold the triger back but not hard - no more force than is required to break sear engagement - and if no drag is felt at hammer, moving it by hand without upper and mainspring, then adjustment is probably OK. You can check by backing off on post travel screw.

3. When you removed the magazine disconnect lever and spring did you remove the bushing also? Did you put anything in the place of the lever and spring? (at first when it rattled)

4. How is the fit between the clark bushing and the hammer? Between the bushing and the hammer pin? One or both needs to turn freely. How is the fit between the hammer pin and the frame?

It is easy to check whether the hammer is binding with the top off and the mainspring out.

I've been staring inside mine and thinking what could cause binding. The only things I can come up with:

insufficient clearance between hammer/bushing/pin/frame (diameter)

bushing too long or not inserted fully pushing hammer towards safety lever causing binding there

bushing too short or too tight and inserted too far into hammer causing hammer to be too far to right causing binding at the hammer strut/mainspring interface

damage to frame at hole for hammer pin causing hammer to be canted in frame

bent hammer pin

I will throw in one more idea. On mine, the bottom or the hammer forward of the notch is not a perfect radius. I can see one spot on the hammer about .010" forward of the notch that is actually touching the sear as the hammer drops. This spot is only about 1/3 the width of the hammer. I never even noticed this before, you might check for a similar situation.
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  #8  
Old 07-28-2009, 07:42 AM
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Is yours a Mk III 22/45?

Last edited by OpsMgr; 07-28-2009 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 07-28-2009, 02:55 PM
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When I installed the Clark bushing in my MKIII, I noticed the bushing was binding a little with the pin. I used a coutersink and deburred the inside of the bushing freed it up. Another spot to look is if the bushing flange is hitting the sear. I turned mine down just a little to give it extra clearance.
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  #10  
Old 07-28-2009, 10:48 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
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Thanks to all for the quick & very detailed response! It is a Mark III, not a 22/45. Unfortunately, I work 12 hr shifts with a 45 min commute both ways and have Army Reserves this weekend.

I really appreciate the assistance and suggestions, I will try to fix it as time allows in the next week or two and repost with results. Hopefully, I can isolate exactly which solution works to help other in the future-thanks again!
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Old 07-29-2009, 08:53 AM
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I'm not as patient as some of you. I put the VQ kit (minus the extractor) in my new Mk III and immediately began getting light strikes .

I replaced the VQ hammer with the factory hammer and the problem went away.

VQ asked for the hammer back for inspection. I sent it to them and they sent me a new one with no explanation of what might have been wrong with the old one.

I have not installed the new one. I'll wait until a problem occurs. My Mk III has currently gone over 1000 rounds with no problem of any sort.

L84GLF
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  #12  
Old 09-07-2009, 09:09 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
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Took the Clark bushing out, and returned to stock-minus the disconnect-better but still 25% light strikes. Broke the whole gun down, brake cleaner, and polishing wheel from dremel, cleaned out the firing pin channel, filed the firing pin stop a hair to improve cleanance, little to no improvement?

Is there a difference in firing pins between the Mark 2 & 3 (the Mark 2 pin is available on Midway)? Should the strike be on the very edge? It seems to me that it might be striking too far out on the edge and deflecting outward and not biting as deeply?

I might try one more time, after that, does anyone know a Mark 3 smith in SLC, Utah? Thanks for the assistance.
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  #13  
Old 09-07-2009, 09:14 PM
SlyOneMrGrinch
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Oh yeah, one other question: The firing pin stop, up or down on the bend on the end? Will that make a difference by forcing it out?
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  #14  
Old 09-08-2009, 06:40 AM
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Call Ruger. They sent me a new firing pin at no charge.

What hammer is in your pistol? Factory? VQ? Other?

Regards,

L84GLF
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:50 PM
kingshouse41225
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By firing pin stop I assume you mean the little tab on the other end of the firing pin spring. If you have the bolt laying upside down so that the firing pin channel is up the "convex" side of the bend (the peak side, not the valley side) should be facing you so the flat end (away from the spring) should be angling downward towards the bolt when the pointy end of the tab is parallel to the bottom of the firing pin channel.

The stop for the firing pin itself is the pin that retains it.
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