Marlin "No20" pump made 1907-1922 - Page 2 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #16  
Old 06-03-2011, 11:47 PM
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Seriously, you should call Wendall at Outback Gun Parts. He seems to have more practical knowledge about these little rifles than anyone I've met and has the parts inventory to get even the worst beater up and running. He may have a useful drawing also.

http://www.outbackgunparts.com/Products.html

BTW, I don't claim to have encyclopedic knowledge about the old pump Marlins, I just owned one and looked at it extensively, but I do know there was an improved pump bolt that remedied the weaker originals. I clearly remember seeing a side-by-side picture of both bolts and being relieved mine was one of the beefier versions. As I recall, the fragility of the bolts had nothing to do with the yet-to-be-developed HV ammunition, unlike the early 97/39s.

TBR
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  #17  
Old 06-04-2011, 10:10 AM
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Marlin 20

I'll call him. Have talked with him before on different rifle and he seems tobe spot on.Thanx
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  #18  
Old 07-19-2011, 07:56 PM
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THANX to Dr Dan

he took the time to take internal pix from bare innards to all assembled and emailed them to me. So I have all but three missing parts, got most of them from Jack First. Numerich had the cartridge stop which is just a spring and the forearm screws. am making the escutheons out of brass. that baby will be a shootin' by the weekend. again a humongous thax to Dr. Dan
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  #19  
Old 07-20-2011, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill from Conyers View Post
he took the time to take internal pix from bare innards to all assembled and emailed them to me. So I have all but three missing parts, got most of them from Jack First. Numerich had the cartridge stop which is just a spring and the forearm screws. am making the escutheons out of brass. that baby will be a shootin' by the weekend. again a humongous thax to Dr. Dan
We hope to see some pics of it after you get it working, heck, some pics of you doing the repairs wouldn't hurt either

Repair pics on antique rifles are what makes RFC better than average
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  #20  
Old 07-24-2011, 12:47 PM
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Marlin # 20

pix during repairs are forthcoming. . my lifter looks different than Dr. Dans and the cart cutoff I got from Numerich seems a tad big. will take some shots and post
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  #21  
Old 08-07-2011, 02:08 PM
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featherweight modal 18

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Originally Posted by Sav22 View Post
The 'BABY" 18 was a solid frame as were the 25's; all versions of the 20 were takedown frames. The bolts on the pumps never had a problem with cracking - it was the bolts in the Marlin model 39 Lever action's. The last change on the bolts in the pumps was done long before High-Speed ammo became available, but the pumps were all discontinued shortly after so I would stick to standard velocity in them - problems with high-speed ammo might be why they were discontinued.
the first pump marlin was the modal 18 made 1906 to 08. 14,000 approximatlely made. half the weight of the 20. tapered octagon barrel a large knurled head machine screw in the rear tang makes it marlins first takedown 22 you just take the stock off and your sn# is on the left hand side of the upper tang. the first of the model 20 used up the model 18 firing pins the best place i have found for repair parts for the 18s and 20s is wisner's thay have a web site and you will get your best accuracy with standerd velocity or sub sonic ammo 40gr bullets. shame on yourself refering to my great nephews favorite pump as a baby he's 7 and a big boy its a featherweight
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  #22  
Old 08-07-2011, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill from Conyers View Post
pix during repairs are forthcoming. . my lifter looks different than Dr. Dans and the cart cutoff I got from Numerich seems a tad big. will take some shots and post
Sorry to hear that "Numnuts" is maintaining its reputation, for shipping the incorrect parts.
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  #23  
Old 08-13-2011, 11:32 PM
Emmett Dunham
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Two things that need to be in place and working on the Marlin pump is the cartridge guide in the top of the receiver a spring with a screw holding it in place over the chamber and the cartridge stop that is working right. I think I have a cartridge stop for this rifle that is missing the flat spring. Do not shot standard pressure modern rounds in your rifle they could crack the bolt and also deform the pad in the receiver area that the bolt uses to lock it in place and absorbs the power of the bolt being forced back, use sub sonic rounds in it. Once you have the rifle together and you start shooting it you will find that it is is very accurate rifle and fun to shoot.

Emmett
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