Do copper "jacketed" 22 cal bullets keep suppressors cleaner? - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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Old 08-18-2017, 08:47 PM
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Do copper "jacketed" 22 cal bullets keep suppressors cleaner?



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Yes, I know 22 cal bullets are copper washed NOT jacketed-I wrote that to get your attention!

I use a Gemtech suppressor with lead, standard velocity ammo, (Wolf, SK, CCI, etc) and this thing gets leaded as heck.

Does anyone have experience shooting copper washed bullets through a suppressor and did it cut down the amount of leading that had to be cleaned out of said suppressor?

Thanks!
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Old 08-19-2017, 10:02 AM
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How many rounds to see lead in your suppressor? Have you tried CCI suppressor ammo or Federal AESUP1? I have better results with these 2 than anything else. CCI SV fair. GemTec suppressor ammo not good. Just my experience.
BTW -My suppressor is not designed to be stripped for cleaning by the user. Am looking to acquire a more user friendly model...AAC Element 2.

Last edited by jaird; 08-19-2017 at 10:05 AM. Reason: Additional information
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Old 08-19-2017, 10:13 AM
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I think copper washed bullets help reduce fouling on the first baffles, but can't prove it.
I tried the DOT 5 brake fluid treatment, as my baffles are aluminum and I can't use the dip.
This has helped clean up incredibly. I was sceptical when I did it, but no more.

Google it. Try it. I know it works on the aluminum baffles in my Sig can.
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  #4  
Old 08-19-2017, 05:20 PM
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I appreciate your response and ask a favor.....

I've seen a lot of "interesting" information regarding your suggestion so do you think you could explain to me what exactly YOU do with regard to this process?

Also, what was your technique used to clean the suppressor before you performed this procedure?

I'd appreciate your expertise in this matter!

Copterdrvr
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:53 PM
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Is barrel/suppressor leading caused by lead rubbing off or lead vaporized from the heel of the bullet?
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Old 08-19-2017, 08:57 PM
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I haven't tried using copper washed rounds exclusively as of yet but that's on my list. 40 gr. Mini mags would be my choice to see how they do. I run a Gemtech Outback IID and use 100% silicone oil to coat the baffles and inside the tube. It makes a world of difference when I want to clean the suppressor. Most of the carbon buildup just wiped off. I believe the best way to clean it down to bare metal is with plain old elbow grease.
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:31 AM
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If I understand how they work, the bullet should never touch the suppressor. There should be enough room for it to pass through untouched. How else can it be accurate if it leave your barrels rifling, then engages rifling that is not timed with your barrels rifling that would have to be in the suppressor, otherwise the bullet twist would be slowed by a smooth bore in the suppressor. So under these assumptions, I am guessing that the bullet itself does not touch the suppressor. Just crud from the burnt powder and lead that gets air born from it being rubbed off going down the barrel. So.... copper washed would be better, since you would not have any air born lead to collect in the suppressor, but you will still have burnt and unburnt powder that will collect on any surfaces. Again, I do not own a suppressor, but I know how a rifle works, and the bullet cannot touch the inside of a suppressor without major issues.
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizzy View Post
If I understand how they work, the bullet should never touch the suppressor. There should be enough room for it to pass through untouched. How else can it be accurate if it leave your barrels rifling, then engages rifling that is not timed with your barrels rifling that would have to be in the suppressor, otherwise the bullet twist would be slowed by a smooth bore in the suppressor. So under these assumptions, I am guessing that the bullet itself does not touch the suppressor. Just crud from the burnt powder and lead that gets air born from it being rubbed off going down the barrel. So.... copper washed would be better, since you would not have any air born lead to collect in the suppressor, but you will still have burnt and unburnt powder that will collect on any surfaces. Again, I do not own a suppressor, but I know how a rifle works, and the bullet cannot touch the inside of a suppressor without major issues.
exactly ^^^^ what he said
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Old 08-20-2017, 06:14 AM
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Question

I have two suppressors, PTP Tactical 190M Suppressor, and a Huntertown Guardian 22 SS and both with removal SS baffles, one has 5 and the other 7 and both are 22LR/22WMR capable according to manufacture. Bought one for $185 and other for $210 IIRC. I use the 7 baffles one with SV & HV on my S&W 2206, 10/22 and my Savage Mk II FV and my Savage A22 LR before it had FP break.

I use CCI HV, SV and Quite, Winchester "Suppressor" and HV CPHP, Fed Auto Target, Aguila SS, SV and HV, and Remington SS HP and have had no leading issues even after as many as 1200 rounds before cleaning suppressor and even then I had very little carbon build up and which caused no disassembly problems at that point. I found little difference between 200 rounds and 1200 rounds except amount of carbon on the removable baffles and even that wasn't that big a difference. Put the baffles in the sonic cleaner and about 3 hours later they were good to go.
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  #10  
Old 08-20-2017, 07:47 AM
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Really-no issues after 1200 rounds? You're lucky.

My GM22 is very small and light weight and its best feature is how incredibly quiet it is. I'm wondering if yours has the same design features and tight bore dimension tolerances that allows it to do such an efficient job at noise reduction.

I'm assuming that the closer the "insides" of the suppressor are to the path of the bullet, the more potential there is of lead transfer to the associated parts.

Maybe with suppressors that have larger bore diameters for a specific caliber, there is less lead transfer to the baffles.

Still haven't found a really good explanation of the DOT 5 brake fluid "treatment"..
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  #11  
Old 08-20-2017, 08:23 AM
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This is what the DOT 5 brake fluid treatment or silicon oil application is. The original site has been dead but it appears someone has a PDF of it.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=979473
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:38 AM
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I have a SilencerCo Spectre II and have used only plated/washed subsonic. I clean it every 250 rounds or so. There's not too much buildup at that point, but what's there is hard enough to remove that I'm not sure it's any better than running LRN.

I'm not ready to try "the dip" yet, and I don't want to invest the money and storage space for a tumbler/SS media. I read on a forum somewhere of a mechanic that used a heated parts washer to soak his disassembled suppressor with good results. I don't have the space for that, so I bought a small crock pot and soak the baffles for a couple of hours on low heat with a 50/50 mix of water/Purple Power. Not a miracle, but I'd say it cuts the cleaning time in half.

I had read about the brake fluid treatment but forgot about it. Thanks to those who posted about it. Think I'll look into it.

I remember reading somewhere that some use anti-seize compound on the baffles with very good results. I use anti-seize compound on the suppressor end caps and on the barrel threads and other mechanical items. It's so hard to completely remove that I'm not yet ready to put it on all the baffle surfaces. If anyone here tries/tried it, let us know how it worked.
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:03 AM
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I think this may be the brake flud article. Now I remember why I didn't try it. The wife would kill me for using the oven for that!! (May have to buy a toaster oven.)


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...PxvnUjicYZIeLA

When you click the link, it will download the PDF of the RDVegas article.

Or, if you're like me and won't click an unknown link, just google "mdshooters rrdvegas /silencer-cleaning" it will be near the top of the list and have PDF in the header.
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:33 AM
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I've got 3 different rimfire suppressors... A Silencerco Sparrow SS, a Silencerco Spectre II, and a Tactical Solutions Axiom. For standard velocity ammunition I've had really good results with both CCI SV as well as the Gemtech suppressor 22 LR. (I like the Gemtech ammo so much that I've purchased 3 cases of it.) Hosts include a Ruger 10/22 with a TacSol X-Ring threaded barrel, 2 different Ruger American Rimfire rifles, an AR style rifle with a Nordic Components upper, a Ruger 22/45 MK III, and a Browning Buckmark "Whisper".

In all of these hosts I've found both the CCI SV and the Gemtech ammo to be relatively clean, accurate, and reliable. I honestly cannot remember a single malfunction in any host with either of these two types of ammo. Accuracy is not "benchrest" accuracy but certainly good enough for plinking and small game. Typically I see groups that are around 1 MOA in the long guns. (Handguns...Not so much... but that's me more than the gun/ammo.)

With respect to the OP's original question... In the spring here in Idaho we have thousands of ground squirrels that come out and provide several months of shooting fun. During this time, I typically shoot CCI minimag HPs. It's not uncommon to spend 4-5 hours over the course of a weekend shooting 500-1000 rounds. I have found the copper washed rounds to be "slightly" cleaner than the pure lead rounds. By "slightly" cleaner I mean not quite the same degree of lead buildup in the cans but here is still crud from the powder and a little lead residue.

Since I switched to the DOT 5 treatment I have noticed that it is significantly easier to clean the internals. When I return from a day of shooting I will disassemble the cans and most of the crud comes off with a nylon brush and paper towels. For the really stubborn stuff, or if I get lazy and don't clean them right after shooting, I will run the internals (baffles) through a stainless steel pin tumble, and then treat with DOT 5 before reassembling.

I takes a little extra work on the front end to treat with the brake fluid but it definitely makes post shooting cleanup easier.
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  #15  
Old 08-20-2017, 01:24 PM
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Points pertinent to this discussion...

"The Dip" is cheap, easy, and effective for ferrous metal suppressor parts. However, you end up with lead acetate, which is toxic. If you use it, wear the appropriate PPE and dispose of the used solution properly.

Tumbling with SS pins is very effective and avoids the lead acetate issue.

I have a small ultrasonic cleaner that does eventually get the baffles clean, but it's slow go and I have to baby sit the machine as it only has an 8 minute cycle time.

The silicone oil/Dot 5 brake fluid treatment works better than any other pre-treatment I have tried. Warm the cleaned parts and dip in the oil. Use anti-sieze on the threads. If you have an aluminum can, it's best to treat it before the first firing.

Copper washed ammo is no cleaner than standard non copper washed ammo, plus, your baffles will have a copper wash on them upon disassembly.
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