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Old 09-14-2019, 08:27 AM
chetc

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head space



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i am curious if i machine the front of my bolt to get near .042 rather than it's current dimension of .052 would be worth the time, would there be any improvements.

chet
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:45 AM
Jammer22
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I guess you'll have to decide if the headspace (as it sits) is causing an accuracy issue. Tightening up the headspace won't necessarily fix something that isn't broken.
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Old 09-14-2019, 09:00 AM
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fewer fliers
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Old 09-14-2019, 09:50 AM
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It would help in several areas and possibly accuracy. The real question would be what equipment you have to insure a straight, flat, and square cut.
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Old 09-14-2019, 10:05 AM
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Send in your bolt for the CPC 10/22 L.R. Bolt Combo Rework...
Bolt is disassembled and ultrasonically cleaned. Headspace is surface ground and squared to a .0425 rim depth... MORE = http://www.ct-precision.com/
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Old 09-14-2019, 10:42 AM
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SAAMI spec for headspace is .043"-.051".

Most of my new (to me at least) Ruger bolts have measured .046" to ".049". But I did have a really badly finished MKII bolt that wasn't square and the highest quadrant of the face brought the headspace to over .060". Light strike city!!!

I'm sure there are a lot of professional smiths that could have gotten that bolt face squared better than I did. But anybody could get it more square than Ruger did. I think my finished product is at least as good as any Ruger finished bolt I've ever seen, and I left the headspace at .045". I figured that would leave a smith a little something to work with if I messed it up. It seems to work fine now though.

But if Randy or Que were still doing any bolt work for the mark pistols, I would have sent it them to fix. Me = okay; Them = great!
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Old 09-14-2019, 04:33 PM
GH41

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Originally Posted by RCP Phx View Post
It would help in several areas and possibly accuracy. The real question would be what equipment you have to insure a straight, flat, and square cut.
I agree 100% with you. What are the chances of him being capable and equipped to fixture it up and grind it? Maybe he can but not with a bench grinder and framing square.
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:12 PM
chetc

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Originally Posted by RCP Phx View Post
It would help in several areas and possibly accuracy. The real question would be what equipment you have to insure a straight, flat, and square cut.
equipment, either a bridgeport vertical mill, a few lathe's, surface grinder, blanchard grinder, i can make a fixture and do it in a lathe, or mill, if i use the mill, i want to add the rear hole for cleaning and machine a slot for a rear tang. it's no problem doing this step i asked about, just curious what to expect, i do get flyers every now and then that mess up a group, been a toolmaker\mech engineer for the 50yrs.

chet
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:24 PM
Jammer22
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Originally Posted by Test_Engineer View Post
SAAMI spec for headspace is .043"-.051".
But I did have a really badly finished MKII bolt that wasn't square and the highest quadrant of the face brought the headspace to over .060". Light strike city!!!
Of course we are talking about a 10/22 not a Mark II...
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Old 09-14-2019, 11:40 PM
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Of course we are talking about a 10/22 not a Mark II...
The OP asked what improvements he might see by reducing the headspace of a Ruger bolt. That's what we're talking about.

Clem suggested fewer fliers. RCP suggested improved accuracy. I suggested fewer light strikes.

Do you ever have anything positive to add, or do you just post to discredit others that do? Gets old...
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Old 09-15-2019, 03:28 AM
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And while your at it, put in a pin to keep the firing pin from moving up and down. This will keep the strikes more consistent, allegedly reduces flyers also. If you need some practice bolts to work on I have a few, so pm me and I’ll send them to you. If they come out ok you can send them back

Some people find that the bolt is a bit narrow, allowing some movement from side to side in the receiver. There is a post about using a special tape on the inside of the receiver to cure this.

I hope your endeavor to diy your 1022 into a match champion is successful!
Read the post , Gotta Question, about making sure your barrel is really free floated , but basically you need to sand out your barrel channel so you have space for 2 business cards to slide under the whole thing. I got lots of sanding to do this winter!

I’m assuming that you’re going to bed the action , ala DrGunner, since you’re going with the rear tang. See post Bedding a Raptor.., none better.

I really like how focused and committed you are to this endeavor. I find it truly inspiring! Keep up the cause , and like always.

Have fun!

Last edited by Toomany22s; 09-15-2019 at 03:34 AM.
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:08 AM
chetc

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Originally Posted by Toomany22s View Post
And while your at it, put in a pin to keep the firing pin from moving up and down. This will keep the strikes more consistent, allegedly reduces flyers also. If you need some practice bolts to work on I have a few, so pm me and Iíll send them to you. If they come out ok you can send them back

Some people find that the bolt is a bit narrow, allowing some movement from side to side in the receiver. There is a post about using a special tape on the inside of the receiver to cure this.

I hope your endeavor to diy your 1022 into a match champion is successful!
Read the post , Gotta Question, about making sure your barrel is really free floated , but basically you need to sand out your barrel channel so you have space for 2 business cards to slide under the whole thing. I got lots of sanding to do this winter!

Iím assuming that youíre going to bed the action , ala DrGunner, since youíre going with the rear tang. See post Bedding a Raptor.., none better.

I really like how focused and committed you are to this endeavor. I find it truly inspiring! Keep up the cause , and like always.

Have fun!
hello twomany 22

i am having fun at this, trying to see what i can stretch out of this 10 22, i do plan to pin the bolt to prevent the firing pin lift, ( i almost forgot, thanks) i am going out today and mess with torque settings, barrel is not floated yet, doing one step at a time, i know it will never shoot near my target rimfire rifle. but it's a fun thing. i don't want this to be a money pit, that is why this is a strictly DIY project. when and if i get this gun to achieve accuracy i am happy with, then project is over, but still have a ways to go, there times this will shoot 4 nice shots and boom there goes a flyer, but gonna keep at it, and thanks for all the members help having fun.


chet
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  #13  
Old 09-15-2019, 08:19 AM
GH41

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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetc View Post
equipment, either a bridgeport vertical mill, a few lathe's, surface grinder, blanchard grinder, i can make a fixture and do it in a lathe, or mill, if i use the mill, i want to add the rear hole for cleaning and machine a slot for a rear tang. it's no problem doing this step i asked about, just curious what to expect, i do get flyers every now and then that mess up a group, been a toolmaker\mech engineer for the 50yrs.

chet
Sounds like you have the hardware and experience boxes checked. Have you measured the OEM bolt? I have a friend with experience similar to you who wanted to blueprint a Ruger bolt. No relationship between any surfaces were true to one another. He ended up getting an aftermarket bolt.
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