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Is it time to start reloading 9mm and 380?

6K views 52 replies 27 participants last post by  56S 
#1 ·
Just couldn't justify the investment for the amount of handgun ammo I shoot but now the frustrations over shortages change the equation. I'm all set for rifle calibers but no dies, primers, powder or lead for the handguns.

I've heard never use reloads for personal protection due to a lawyer having a field day saying you loaded them hot specifically to kill or maim. (which I thought was the purpose of defending yourself with a firearm)

Are there any pistol reloaders here that will be willing to share thoughts?
 
#4 ·
Unless you have relatively small hands,, the first time reloader will enjoy reloading something like a 44 MAG WAY more than a 380.

I do reload 10MM on occasion, but, that is as small as I go,, I do have relatively LARGE hands (I enjoy wearing 3X gloves, I can squeeze into 2X,,sometimes,,)

I would HATE to learn reloading on a 380,,
that would be like learning to drive using a gokart on a 70MPH Interstate.

Reloading is supposed to be an enjoyable hobby. Do not make it difficult.

Auto-loader pistols are finicky, and therefore difficult
Small primers are difficult
Small cartridges are powder sensitive, and therefore difficult
Compared to the 44 Mag, the 380 mini cartridges are difficult to handle

Now,,if you do not have ammo,, reload the 380 and 9mm,, but, understand,, it is not then a "fun hobby" activity,, :confused::eek:

:D

PS. : if you are gonna reload the 9mm,, order a Dillon Square Deal press,,
After an hour of tinkering, the Square Deal can reload 500 rounds per hour,, easily,,
If your spouse, or friend is helping, it can reload 900 rounds an hour, I have done it many times, with 44 Mag ammo.

If you get the Square Deal, you can thank me later!! :D :bthumb:
 
#18 · (Edited)
Reloading Info

I don't understand any of your comments. I've been handloading for 30 years with a Dillon 550b, one step and decade newer technology than the square deal. I also have huge hands and I've successfully loaded everything from .22 shorts to 300 Win Mag, never had problems with the size of the brass, bullet or primer.

On a good day a Dillon Square deal will top out at 200 rds per hour even with a dillon employee (s) help you. Start cheap with a Lee Precision handloader, for $80.00 get a set of Lee die for $35.00, get a couple of hundred used 9mm brass for $50.00 and a couple of hundred Winchester SP primers for $10.00. Buy some 124 gr. Lead bullets from Missouri Bullet for $35.00,do your research on what kind of powder that makes the most rounds per pound with adequate and safe power for under $30.00 per lb.(i get 1500 rounds per lb of Accurate powder (email me for a load RECOMMENDATION!!)) then start loading 9mm rounds, one at a time. You can get up to 100 rounds per 90 minutes. Cost is minimal, you learn the basics, you see if you can load rounds safely.

Then if you want to do a lot of rounds get a Lee 4 place turrent reloader for $135, with the complete kit, including auto-priming. You can do 200 rounds per hour, safely. THEN, if you want to spend $800 and do 250 rounds of pistol rounds per hour get a Dillon 550C. Dillon is a wonderful company and their guarantees are the best, but you pay for the quality!!

It's a very involved process, but i love sitting in front of TV and decapping brass and capping with new primers. I leave the TV and go to my reloading room, away from distractions to finish "cooking" the rounds. Safety, safety, and more safety!!

And my lawyer and my insurance company tell me that it is OK to use reloads for defense. Who can pay >$30.00 per twenty premium rounds when you have to practice every single week??

wolfzinAZ
 
#5 ·
I've waited long enough to get my CCW. Scheduled to go in two weeks. Both of us are going. Not too excited about taking the course using 22LR instead of the 9mm but since it's a Witness 9mm using the 22 conversion kit the instructor is fine with that. I have scads of 22LR that my rifles don't like but my 9mm stash is limited.

I don't want to sound like some whacko prepper but having a few hundred more hollow point rounds at the ready with the potential for more can't hurt.
 
#6 ·
Normally coupled with ammo shortages are the inevitable shortages of powder. I used to reload 12 gauge and there's some overlap with pistol powders so I experienced the lack of powder availability in a couple of the past freak outs and self-inflicted shortages.
 
#27 ·
I like to reload my 12 gauge shells with Unique which is also a common pistol powder. During the last shortage I couldn't find it and it has been hard to find since - and now!!! So, I agree, you better check the availability of powder, primers and the like before you invest a ton into reloading 9mm and 380acp. Then if the current shortages subside it might be a consideration even if inexpensive and available range ammo supplies return.
 
#8 ·
It might be loosening up. I ran into a buy on Winchester 38spl+P bonded JHP at an lgs on the 3rd. $22/50 rounds which is less than practice ammo. Same ammo at anther lgs was $26/25 rounds. I have been mostly loading 38, 357 and 410 lately. 9mm is easy and 380 is just a little shorter.
I have plenty of 9mm on hand and still have some I loaded during the last shortage. I recently found 750 rounds of 9mm JHP I forgot about.
 
#9 ·
Handloads for practice ... factory ammo for self defense. You will, or at least absolutely should be spending more time practicing than in shoot-outs for your life.

I re-load 9mm, .45 ACP, and .357/.38 special, but haven't felt that it was economically advantageous to re-load the .380.

Hector
 
#11 ·
Handloads for practice ... factory ammo for self defense.

I re-load 9mm, .45 ACP, and .357/.38 special, but haven't felt that it was economically advantageous to re-load the .380.

Hector
Hector and I are on the same page here. There are numerous steps to handloading safely and well, and each of them can/has/will go wrong. Double charged case, primer but no powder, seating depth wrong, 9mm bullet in a .38 case, left the wrong powder in the loader, too much crimp, too little crimp. . . the list goes on and on. The best way to ensure that your pistola goes bang when you need it to (and not "boom" or "pop") is to use factory ammo in it when it counts. When does it count? Anytime you are not practicing.

I load the same handgun calibers as Hector -- mainly because the military/police calibers are common and, in normal times, components are plentiful. Also, .38 Special is capable of astonishing accuracy under 50 yards, once you figure out what your revolver likes.

I do load for rifle too, and like in handguns there are easy calibers and fiddly ones. .222 Remington is easy. .17 Hornet is fiddly. If I were going to start loading for a handgun, I would choose 9mm or .38 Special. They are popular for a reason.
 
#10 ·
I have been using Berry's Bullets. Copper plated and around 10 cents in quantity. You will find shortages in components too right now. I usually buy powder and primers locally and have had no problems finding them. Bullets are another matter. Most of the high quantity shooters around here are casting and powder coating their own. They order their powder and primers in quantity to offset the shipping and hasmat charges.
https://www.berrysmfg.com/
 
#12 ·
The whole "handloads will get you in trouble in court" myth was started by shooting magazine writers. Not true, never has been. If you disagree please site a court case.

As with anything new, it takes some practice to get good and also in the case of ammo, comfortable with the product of your efforts. It is doable and can be very satisfying to be at least one more layer removed from dependency on the supply chain. Many of the components are multi caliber interchangeable, powder, primers, bullets, if selected carefully.

Unless you are planning on getting a full day's training where you'll need 600+ rounds, you can get enough ammo ready for a day's shooting in a couple of hours with a simple single stage press.

380 is 1 mm shorter than 9mm. If that kind of size difference makes you cringe, well?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Just couldn't justify the investment for the amount of handgun ammo I shoot but now the frustrations over shortages change the equation. I'm all set for rifle calibers but no dies, primers, powder or lead for the handguns.
Eventually everyone comes to the same conclusion. When everything rosy and no issues or shortages, why reload? when ammo is so cheap, why pickup brass? just leave it for those fools. Shoes on the other foot now.

but guess what. Its happened before and it will happen again. The longer you live the more times you will have the "been there, done that" years ago.

If you learn is a different question and if you do something about it is the other question.

for what its worth, i have components where i have paid for things like < 10 bucks per pound of powder and my bullets are < 0.05/round and i have primers that are < 0.001/primer. I still have alot of each and so all i need to do in times like this is to start to reload.

Im one of those fools that pickup range brass. I keep them separate from my factory. If im at a place where i cant pickup my brass, i use the range brass reloads. Or if i have a supply of CCI Aluminum case, i will use those.

I've heard never use reloads for personal protection due to a lawyer having a field day saying you loaded them hot specifically to kill or maim. (which I thought was the purpose of defending yourself with a firearm)
there are different thoughts on this. But if you are going to use a firearm for SD, then you may want to investigate what happens to you where you live. Every state will have different laws for SD.

where i live a LEO came and gave a talk to the CCW class and HIS interpretation and experience when it came to SD. the gist was that if someone was in a bodybag, someone was going to jail. Now that doesnt mean you would end up in court and you need to pay attention to what is said and done. But with someone dead, there would be questions to be answered. So guess what? you would want a lawyer. Again, go find out what happens if you are in a SD. Its up to you to do any research on this. Not many people talk about what happens after. And just so you understand, just be i stated something here or Joe Blow on some board says something else, does not mean alot in a court of law or if you are being questioned. I know you and others want a quick and dirty answer for many things, but sometimes you need to do your due diligence.

what i do in this case is to have FACTORY ammo on hand. I will use my reloads for killing paper but for SD/HD i loadup with factory. Also when im out and about or at a gun show or gun shop ,if there is a sale/deal on some ammo, i may buy a box or case. It will depend on my needs at the time. its not like i MUST shoot it all either. I can save that box or case for HD/SD. If i feel that the ammo will spoil or is bad, then i will shoot it. But i will also look at replacing it or keep 1 box while i search for replacement ammo.

Are there any pistol reloaders here that will be willing to share thoughts?
you may find that everyone is wired differently. There will be different answers for how they perceive things and how things are where they live. Some may feel if you step foot on my property, you wont live to make that 2nd step. there are many variations on what will be done and so forth.

you should know about the Castle Doctrine. readup on it and see what you think. There maybe variations on it and so forth. but readup.

also note there is the CRIMINAL law and CIVIL law. Did you see the OJ trials and what happened? IIRC, CRIMINALLY he was found NOT GUILTY, but the family (Laywers) went after him CIVILLY.

good luck and have fun.
 
#14 ·
I did some shopping to find an instructor that spent more time on the legal aspects than other instructors. It's not a wham bam thank you ma'am type of class.

I've been on this big round ball for 63 years and have always managed to use my noggin to keep me out of trouble. Things are changing rapidly and the have-nots may be coming after the haves for their "fair" share.

I understand there are insurance policies for this situation. That's something else I need to study up on.
 
#16 ·
I did some shopping to find an instructor that spent more time on the legal aspects than other instructors. It's not a wham bam thank you ma'am type of class.
Thats good. Since many dont cover that and many students dont think or care about it. Until its too late.

also, dont be afraid to ask questions. Some people are so fearful about asking questions to officials. Even a cop on the beat.

At my LGS many LEOs come in and will chat with the owners/employees. If i happen to be there or happen to come in when they are there i will listen. Sometimes listening is way better than asking. And i act like im doing my own thing and so they feel free to talk.

Same at gun shows. If a Law Enforcement Agacy is there to drum up some recruits, i will stop by and chat. IF everyone is avoiding them like the Plague you maybe able to have a long chat with them.

I've been on this big round ball for 63 years and have always managed to use my noggin to keep me out of trouble. Things are changing rapidly and the have-nots may be coming after the haves for their "fair" share.
thats true, but it will depend on where you are on the pecking order and where you live. Most places have a "high end" area and so forth and it doesnt take a rocket scientist to know were those are. Locals usually do and so there is usually no secret to that.

im not worried about that and what happens since if they wanted to find those places, i sure dont live there and there are way more rich places to loot before they get to me.

You can go over all of the various scenarios if you want and do the "what ifs". It may chew up some time if you have alot on your hands.

I understand there are insurance policies for this situation. That's something else I need to study up on.
yes there are. I haven't looked into this aspect myself. but as you may know, insurance is a funny critter. They love to take your money and promise the moon, but when it comes to payout. It maybe like hens teeth.

good luck
 
#15 ·
I taught myself to reload starting with 9mm Luger around 1994 when you could buy 500 jacketed 9mm bullets for $25. I have mostly shot handloads for my pistol shooting. 9mm is not a hard round to reload and many powders will work well. I really like Universal Clays and 115grain bullets. 124 grain bullets work well too but 147s are not optimum for the caliber nor are 90 grain bullets that you can also shoot in the 380. I haven't reloaded 380 but it will probably work better with W231 or similar powder as it operates at lower pressures at which 231 is better suited than Universal Clays. 231 is also good in 45 and 38 special, also lower pressure rounds. It will also work in 9mm and is a versatile do all powder. If you reload shotgun, Blue Dot common for 20 gauge can be used for 9mm but is not the most consistent in terms of velocity. There are other shotgun powders that are perfectly suitable for handgun reloading. Unique is one of the most versatile. I use RCBS dies and my reloads are pretty darn reliable. The only issue I've seen is making sure the bullets are seated deep enough they don't create an excess headspace issue which keeps the round from chambering. While the savings is not as great reloading common 9mm as it is with less common 357 mag, 44 mag, 45 Colt, 32 Mag etc you can certainly save money if you already have brass. Try to avoid the ones with crimped in Military Primers. I prefer FC and Win head stamp brass but Remington and others are OK too. I used to buy Remington and Winchester 115gr JHP bullets to reload but they cost so much now, Hornady XTP is my preferred bullet of choice for most pistol applications but Armscore FMJ bullets have been "the deal" in the last few years. Sierra has priced themselves out of the market as far as I'm concerned. You can also consider lead for your reloads. There are some poly coated bullets out there now that may be fine for practice and may be able to be loaded faster than traditional lead bullets. In the case of traditional lead bullets, 147 grain is actually preferable in 9mm because you don't want to push them much pas 1050fps. With 380, any 90 or 100 grain lead or jackted bullet should be ok since you can't push them much past 1000fps no matter what powder you choose. There are so many variables it's hard to give specific advice until you know what bullet you plan to use and the approximate speed you wish to push it.
 
#17 ·
I guess I don't understand why you would not want to use the reloads that you made for personal protection. I have been reloading now for almost fifty year, and I trust my reloads more than factory made ammo, I know that each round I reloaded has been personally inspected and has been tested in the pistol I carry. As far as some lawyer trying to say I used some killer bullet to shoot the person that was attacking me; I think that would have been the hole purpose of shooting the person that attacked me in the first place. Now as to what caliber pistol to use for personal defense, I believe that the colt 45acp is a real gun, real men carry real guns, the rest are for woman and children.
 
#21 · (Edited)
fwiw,

you may want to consider what press is more versatile caliber wise and go from there.

Since you already have press, it would suck to go out and buy one sometime in the future if you change your mind.

I bought a used Dillon SDB from a friend that thought he didnt need it anymore.

i like my lee Pro 1000s since i can swap turrets easily. but i still have 4 of them so that i can keep different presses setup for rifle or pistol.

eventually i will sell my presses off, but for now i need to do some reloading.
 
#20 ·
I’ve been reloading for 45 years. I started with an old Lyman press and then went to a RCBS Rock Chucker. I then received one of the first Dillon 550 press. It had many 450 parts and had to be taken back so they could finish it correctly. I have several now, plus a 1050.

9mm is easy to load. I use HP-38 or Winchester 231 powder. The key is to have the components before a shortage.
 
#25 ·
Oddly enough while in Rural King I spotted a fresh shipment of Tulammo 9mm. 4 box limit priced at $7.49/50.

I will start gathering components and start reloading the 9x19 as things become available....if they ever do. Ironically the best deals I've found on rifle bullets and powder were after this current panic started.
 
#29 ·
Been reloading since...

Been reloading since 1968. Started with a .22-250 and a .243 and have been adding calibers ever since, but not too many. I have been using an old Lyman "Comet" single stage press since 1968. A bit slow but reliable. Rifle rounds usually have the powder charges weighted individually and down to 1/10 of a grain. Pistol rounds I do in blocks of 50 and every case is visually inspected for the correct powder volume. Pistol ammo I reload for are .380, .38 Special, .40 S&W, .44 magnum and .45 ACP, and all I do is adjust the powder measure to throw the charge weight I want and the charges are weighed and just dumped back into the powder hopper until it throws the charge weight that I want. After the powder measure is throwing the charge weight that I want I will charge a 50 round reloading block and every case is inspected. EVERY case. Looking for a missed charge or a double charge. Nice thing about these calibers is a double charge will overflow the case so it would be very obvious as would a missed charge. And yes I have deliberately double charged every one of these calibers so I could see what a double charge looks like. And in every case the double charge resulted in an overflowing case. I also pick 10 cases to weigh the powder charge from the 50 that I just charged. Quality control and all that stuff, you know!!!
No one has mentioned this but it is VERY IMPORTANT to have ONLY ONE powder out at a time. Powders have different burn rates and if you mistakenly put a fast burning powder like Unique in a magnum rifle case, well hopefully no one will have been injured or worse, but you will most likely have destroyed your rifle. A friend of mine mistakenly dumped some fast burning pistol powder back into the wrong container. When he fired his rifle the pressure was such that the bolt could not be opened... even with a bit of brute force. Had to unscrew the barrel to get the bolt out. The barrel and receiver checked out ok but my friend decided it was prudent to replace the bolt. And that is why I only have ONE powder, one type of primer, or one type of bullet out when I am reloading.
Depriming and resizing is tedious but this is where I inspect my cases and these operations do not require near as much attention to detail as the priming, powder charging and seating/crimping of the bullet does.
Steps I generally follow...
1. All reloadable brass is put back into its container or it is thrown in one pile, I separate it when I get home.
2. Separate calibers prior to depriming.
3. Deprime the brass, change the reloading die and bell the brass.
4. Polish the brass, sift out the polishing media and admire/inspect the brass. It will either go in a zip lock baggie (or a reloading container) with info regarding where this brass is in the reloading process.
5. Prime the brass. I usually do this by itself as a separate operation.
6. Charge the brass with the type and amount of powder, then seat/crimp the bullet as appropriate.
7. One last inspection before it goes into its container. And affix a label to whatever type of packing you prefer with the detail of the load data for that batch of ammo.
Now if you ask 10 different folks what their procedure is for reloading you are going to get 10 different answers, at least, and it is possible that no one is wrong!!!:confused: Some procedures may be faster, some may be safer, the reloading equipment may require a specific sequence of steps and so on, but the one thing that I never want to compromise on is safety.
First order of business is get a good reloading manual. Actually 2 or 3 is not a bad idea, then read and understand the reloading process. I've been reloading for over 50 years and so far, knock on wood, I have never had a problem. I have had some FLAT primers, on 2 or 3 occasions the bolt handle took more force than usual to open the bolt but no brute force was required. I have had to use my inertia bullet puller to pull some rounds apart because... well that tight bolt handle is a perfect example of why you might want to pull your bullets apart. Excessively flat primers would also have me pulling my reloads apart for inspection.
Equipment...
1. A reloading manual.
2. A reloading press, and there are quite a few choices, both new and used.
3. A powder scale.
4. Reloading dies for your caliber.
I would consider the 4 items above as an absolute minimum to get started. Other items you may choose to purchase at a later date
A. A powder trickler. I only use my powder trickler when I am reloading rifle as I want that 1/10 of a grain powder accuracy, but that is my personal preference.
B. An inertia bullet puller of some sort.
C. A second or third reloading manual.
D. The misc tools for case prep. Primer picket cleaners, chamfering tools for the case mouth and possibly for primer mouth, a good dial indicator capable of .001' accuracy for measuring case length, and Maximum Overall Length of the finished cartridge.
E. Case trimming tools. There are several different brands to choose from.
And I am sure that I have missed some stuff but other folks will chime in to give a better picture.
It is a fun hobby and quite safe if reasonable care is exercised. And it will also you a good bit of money also!!!
So are you thinking of casting your own bullets.... Oh never mind, that is a different subject!!!:rolleyes::p
God Bless, Frank.
 
#33 ·
Been reloading since 1968. Started with a .22-250 and a .243 and have been adding calibers ever since, but not too many. I have been using an old Lyman "Comet" single stage press since 1968. A bit slow but reliable. Rifle rounds usually have the powder charges weighted individually and down to 1/10 of a grain. Pistol rounds I do in blocks of 50 and every case is visually inspected for the correct powder volume. Pistol ammo I reload for are .380, .38 Special, .40 S&W, .44 magnum and .45 ACP, and all I do is adjust the powder measure to throw the charge weight I want and the charges are weighed and just dumped back into the powder hopper until it throws the charge weight that I want. After the powder measure is throwing the charge weight that I want I will charge a 50 round reloading block and every case is inspected. EVERY case. Looking for a missed charge or a double charge. Nice thing about these calibers is a double charge will overflow the case so it would be very obvious as would a missed charge. And yes I have deliberately double charged every one of these calibers so I could see what a double charge looks like. And in every case the double charge resulted in an overflowing case. I also pick 10 cases to weigh the powder charge from the 50 that I just charged. Quality control and all that stuff, you know!!!
No one has mentioned this but it is VERY IMPORTANT to have ONLY ONE powder out at a time. Powders have different burn rates and if you mistakenly put a fast burning powder like Unique in a magnum rifle case, well hopefully no one will have been injured or worse, but you will most likely have destroyed your rifle. A friend of mine mistakenly dumped some fast burning pistol powder back into the wrong container. When he fired his rifle the pressure was such that the bolt could not be opened... even with a bit of brute force. Had to unscrew the barrel to get the bolt out. The barrel and receiver checked out ok but my friend decided it was prudent to replace the bolt. And that is why I only have ONE powder, one type of primer, or one type of bullet out when I am reloading.
Depriming and resizing is tedious but this is where I inspect my cases and these operations do not require near as much attention to detail as the priming, powder charging and seating/crimping of the bullet does.
Steps I generally follow...
1. All reloadable brass is put back into its container or it is thrown in one pile, I separate it when I get home.
2. Separate calibers prior to depriming.
3. Deprime the brass, change the reloading die and bell the brass.
4. Polish the brass, sift out the polishing media and admire/inspect the brass. It will either go in a zip lock baggie (or a reloading container) with info regarding where this brass is in the reloading process.
5. Prime the brass. I usually do this by itself as a separate operation.
6. Charge the brass with the type and amount of powder, then seat/crimp the bullet as appropriate.
7. One last inspection before it goes into its container. And affix a label to whatever type of packing you prefer with the detail of the load data for that batch of ammo.
Now if you ask 10 different folks what their procedure is for reloading you are going to get 10 different answers, at least, and it is possible that no one is wrong!!!:confused: Some procedures may be faster, some may be safer, the reloading equipment may require a specific sequence of steps and so on, but the one thing that I never want to compromise on is safety.
First order of business is get a good reloading manual. Actually 2 or 3 is not a bad idea, then read and understand the reloading process. I've been reloading for over 50 years and so far, knock on wood, I have never had a problem. I have had some FLAT primers, on 2 or 3 occasions the bolt handle took more force than usual to open the bolt but no brute force was required. I have had to use my inertia bullet puller to pull some rounds apart because... well that tight bolt handle is a perfect example of why you might want to pull your bullets apart. Excessively flat primers would also have me pulling my reloads apart for inspection.
Equipment...
1. A reloading manual.
2. A reloading press, and there are quite a few choices, both new and used.
3. A powder scale.
4. Reloading dies for your caliber.
I would consider the 4 items above as an absolute minimum to get started. Other items you may choose to purchase at a later date
A. A powder trickler. I only use my powder trickler when I am reloading rifle as I want that 1/10 of a grain powder accuracy, but that is my personal preference.
B. An inertia bullet puller of some sort.
C. A second or third reloading manual.
D. The misc tools for case prep. Primer picket cleaners, chamfering tools for the case mouth and possibly for primer mouth, a good dial indicator capable of .001' accuracy for measuring case length, and Maximum Overall Length of the finished cartridge.
E. Case trimming tools. There are several different brands to choose from.
And I am sure that I have missed some stuff but other folks will chime in to give a better picture.
It is a fun hobby and quite safe if reasonable care is exercised. And it will also you a good bit of money also!!!
So are you thinking of casting your own bullets.... Oh never mind, that is a different subject!!!:rolleyes::p
God Bless, Frank.
Very good info.

I went to the Dillon progressive press, not for the speed, but for the lowered chance of mistakes. By doing everything in order, it makes it much more difficult to screw up. Besides, the later powder measures even keep you from accidentally double charging a case.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I've been reloading for nearly 40 years now. With the exception of 44 Mag all have been rifle calibers. So far no Oh Crap moments although when throwing charges for my Son's annual Christmas present we did catch a potential problem. He shoots the heck out of his AR so all the less than the best brass get loaded up for him. My wife likes to help so we get two single stage presses set up and load away. She forgot to monitor the powder level in the RCBS thrower and ran out. The extra step of looking down each case mouth while in the tray caught the error. This is one reason I like to pick a powder that fills the case to the bottom of the neck.
When I load for myself each charge is thrown light then trickled to the proper weight. After the powder is funneled into the case the bullet is seated. One round at a time.
I too find it very relaxing and it's helps pass the winter away.

Back on topic. All components that I didn't have are headed this way. While I wait I'll be studying. It's been years since I loaded a pistol round. I'm fortunate enough to have a place to shoot right at home so I can set up the chronograph and test away.

A word of caution for those shooting steel at home. A 45ACP jacket made it 180' perpendicular to the original bullet path and landed on my porch step. I've found a few pieces of copper jacket in my pool which is about 130' away. Yikes!
 
#34 ·
fwiw, when shooting at hard targets, be careful. I hope you wear shooting glasses?

when i was a noob i had taken my 44 mag and my friend and i went out to shoot. we were about 4 feet apart and in front of his truck.

the target was a bowling ball. and was about 20 yards away. he was shooting my 44 and he hit it and the bullet came wizzing back between us and hit his trucks hood and left a dent.

we didnt do that anymore. Lesson learned.
 
#31 ·
One thing I don't know if anyone has mentioned yet (too lazy re read all the comments today) is powder selection can affect safety of handloads for newbies. Take for example a 357 magnum. You can double charge with 231 pretty easy without it overflowing the case. H110, impossible to double charge due to the volume a standard load takes up.

In 9mm. Blue Dot will overflow on a double charge. 231, you might get too much powder in the case but because the case is shorter if you place them in a loading block and do a quick visual check with a flashlight before you set the bullets on say 20 or 50 charged cases any with an obvious over charge can usually be identified. With single stage reloading you do everything in batches from sizing and priming to flaring and then charging before the final bullet seating/crimping.

While not critical you choose a particular powder (there are many that will work),
if you do some research, some have a more ideal loading density than others.

A powder at full charge that takes up most of the case capacity with just enough room to seat the bullet with no or slight compression of the powder charge is generally going to produce the best loads. You want to avoid loads that will need a heavy compression of powder in 9mm and 380. It is not unusual for you to be able to shake the case of a loaded round and hear some powder moving around on light loads. rc
 
#35 ·
Purchased my first 380 in January. Plan was to buy ammo at local gun store. Put 1,000 rounds through it shooting at least one mag of every brand they have / had on the shelf. After testing, I could hit what I aimed at with almost every shot including strong hand only and weak hand only.

Fast forward to COVID-19. The local gun store saved 380 target ammo for me so when I run out, I will have more when they get next shipment in.

I have a Dillon 650 with dies for every caliber I shoot (except 380) and power, bullets, brass, primers for everything except 380. Been saving brass so should not say I do not have any 380 brass. Sorta starting to think I need to order 380 dies plus bullets so that I have all that I want to shoot.
 
#39 ·
Forget all the Reloading Myth Nonsense

I've been reloading and making my own bullets for exactly 60 years. Forget all the stupidity about how some caliber is "more difficult" to reload than the others. I load just over 50 calibers, for handgun, shotgun, rifle, and submachinegun. I make cast and swaged jacketed bullets. Even for .223 with empty .22 LR jackets.

I have a wonderful Dillon progressive press that I virtually never use, because it only pays off if you load zillions of one type. I load small quantities of many types, for experimental fun. You can't beat a reliable old single stage press and good dies. i like Lee, but they are all good.

Don't be afraid to get into bullet casting. Just be careful, and learn slowly. Keep the fumes outside. It's all about fun. Truth be told, I think I have more fun loading than shooting. And keep very good computerized records of all your loads and results. It will pay you back for years.

Try to stick with a few basic, reliable old standby powders. Don't be sucked in by every new fad powder that comes down the pike.

Seriously, I can't imagine how any real gun person could afford to get deeply into the sport without reloading, and putting forth the effort to learn how to do it right. Buy the books and loading manuals. No need to do it all at once. Set a modest goal. Let's say, learn to do 9mm, or .45 ACP, or .30-06. And then move on to the next one.

The only thing I shoot that I don't load is .22 LR. This is about fun. Don't limit yours by sticking with some silly reluctance to learn something new; something that is serious fun and an extremely valuable skill, easy to master.

Ask around, and find a reloader near you who would be willing to offer advice and answer questions now and then. Most would be more than happy. This is not some dangerous, magical process. Take it slowly. I have never had an accident in those 60 years.
 
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