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  #46  
Old 01-03-2016, 11:11 AM
Big-Dummy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cznut View Post
Here is a couple from my 452 American, my firing pin actually had small burrs on the sides of the tip which I removed I use a diamond file and go slow then polish it with a Dremel with a buffing wheel
Did you cut perpendicular to the striker or did you bevel the outside edge until the striker tip stayed just inside the rim?
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  #47  
Old 01-03-2016, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdilliodon View Post
Once you reshape on a 22 LR that striker is married to 22 LR. If you intend to switch barrels I don't recommend reshaping. You can get a new striker and all will be fine with the 17.
It appears that all that is altered is the size of the footprint of the striker. That will also give you a deeper impression as there is still the same energy in the spring acting on the smaller end point in turn the depth will increase to improve striker hits.
Would not the same thought be achieved by narrowing the pin on sides and then the 17hmr strike should improve also without having a pin that is married to 22lr.
What say you DJ. Have you tried that ?

R
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  #48  
Old 01-03-2016, 01:57 PM
djdilliodon

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie01 View Post
It appears that all that is altered is the size of the footprint of the striker. That will also give you a deeper impression as there is still the same energy in the spring acting on the smaller end point in turn the depth will increase to improve striker hits.
Would not the same thought be achieved by narrowing the pin on sides and then the 17hmr strike should improve also without having a pin that is married to 22lr.
What say you DJ. Have you tried that ?

R
If you reshape the striker tuning it to a 22 LR case it could be too much for the HMR. I've done it for the HMR before but only do this On either caliber if those are ok with it and won't switch barrels. I like to use a reduced power striker spring on both calibers after all bolt tweaks are completed. If a reshape isn't done for the HMR then the stock spring is utilized. Reshaping just the sides of the striker won't give you the gain like moving the hit off the rim. The most recent HMR I did is a thumbhole factory stock with Lilja barrel. I took the time and tuned this gun in everyway possible (bedding, striker, trigger etc). Rifle shoots incredible!

That lot even though excellent, I won't be buying as it cost me $20 a box and I refuse to pay that much lol. Bottom group is 22 lr and the flier down low was my fault on the first shot so did 5 more.


Ended up with just a little bit of bedding on the channel on this one.
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  #49  
Old 01-03-2016, 03:23 PM
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Nice work.

R
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  #50  
Old 01-03-2016, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-Dummy View Post
Did you cut perpendicular to the striker or did you bevel the outside edge until the striker tip stayed just inside the rim?
Just took some off the top of the striker
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  #51  
Old 01-05-2016, 01:24 AM
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I just fine tuned mine today by removing another couple of thousandths and rounding the corners a bit more. dang near perfect now and it is hitting a bit deeper too. I measured one case at .0196 deep. It seems to vary by lot depending on how thick the case metal is. I cut away a portion of the case and the striker is completely crushing the priming compound. The gap is completely closed and then some. I didn't get any pictures and ended up removing more material to get a complete cross section picture, so there is no more evidence left.

I am very satisfied with the crush. It is as deep as it is going to get and is doing a fine job of crushing the second layer of brass as well. This is on CCI brass, so I can't speak for others. Some may be deeper and some may be less. I am exceeding CCI minimum crush specs by 50%.
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  #52  
Old 01-05-2016, 02:06 PM
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Working on it. I'm scared...

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  #53  
Old 01-05-2016, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by andy29847 View Post
Working on it. I'm scared...

From the pics it looks like your reshaping it backwards .
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  #54  
Old 01-05-2016, 06:37 PM
bamajoey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdilliodon View Post
From the pics it looks like your reshaping it backwards .
Never fear, CZ USA has plenty of them.:
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  #55  
Old 01-05-2016, 07:22 PM
andy29847

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Youse guys made me go look.

I have made the top cut, but not the front edge cut.

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  #56  
Old 01-05-2016, 10:20 PM
Cowtipper
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So would it be safe to say that dry firing is no longer advised on a 455 with this modification. The striker is going into the casing a bit deeper. So might it come into contact with the face of the barrel?
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  #57  
Old 01-05-2016, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowtipper View Post
So would it be safe to say that dry firing is no longer advised on a 455 with this modification. The striker is going into the casing a bit deeper. So might it come into contact with the face of the barrel?
If the stop ledge on the striker gets ground back and the pin tip extends out more, its best to do a quick check for safety. If the pin tip does not extend past the bolt nose it is generally safe because the bolt nose typically clears the breech face by 3-5 thou, sometimes a touch more.
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  #58  
Old 01-06-2016, 10:41 AM
IsaacCarlson

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Reshaping the tip will not make it dangerous to dry fire. If you don't understand how this works, you shouldn't be working on guns. Just my opinion.
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  #59  
Old 01-06-2016, 01:04 PM
andy29847

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My gun still shoots. My striker seems to have been positioned higher than others I have seen here in pictures. I had to grind off more of the top of the firing pin than I expected to get inside the edge of the case. My last effort is really close to what I had been aiming (pun intended) for. I may stop where I am at.

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  #60  
Old 01-06-2016, 02:41 PM
redmike

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Did Ruger modify the striker/firing pin on the RAR to accomplish this?
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