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  #16  
Old 04-29-2021, 03:45 PM
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I remember someone else having this exact same problem here not too long ago. Unfortunately I don't remember how they got it out. I would definitely try and let it soak for a day or two in some type of oil like CLP. It's still probably going to be tough to get out but that should make it a little easier and ensure it won't stop once it starts coming out.
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  #17  
Old 04-29-2021, 03:54 PM
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Elee, sorry to hear about your situation. Since yours is a CF based on 30 carbine you have a fairly large diameter chamber so you may be able to get a larger more aggressive screw than the one listed below. But the idea is to get a strong rigid material large enough to fit flush at the back of the receiver. Drill a hole in that material so that the screw will turn freely but the head cannot fit through. If you get the right length it will reach all the way to within 1/4" of the case shoulder. Feed the screw from the plate on the back of the receiver and begin to screw it into the nylon body of the bore snake. As it screws down into the chamber the head will tighten against the plate at the back of the receiver and draw the nylon plug back and out of the chamber. The trick is figuring out the correct diameter screw so that it will not bind the nylon against the chamber wall but will still get enough bite to not just fray the nylon. This is where I'd start:https://www.fastenersplus.com/produc...w-E-Coat-Pkg-1

Second idea, We forget that these toys of ours are designed to tolerate extreme temps and pressures. Strip everything off of the action that can be removed. Take a butane lighter / map gas torch and heat the chamber area until the nylon softens/melts and can be pushed out / drips out. Or even light the nylon on fire and let it burn out on it's own. I'd probably send it back to Cooper before I'd light it on fire, but maybe not. In either case, as soon as it gets soft you should be able to push it out with a rod. But don't use a cold rod as it would just freeze the molten plastic.


.
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  #18  
Old 04-29-2021, 04:05 PM
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I would heat up a large needle and burn the material out. It will take multiple passes but will eventually leave the cord loose enough to push out.
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  #19  
Old 04-29-2021, 07:15 PM
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Send it to Cooper. You donít know what caused the issue to begin with. Have it checked.
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  #20  
Old 04-29-2021, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sicumj View Post
Send it to Cooper. You donít know what caused the issue to begin with. Have it checked.
Probably the best advice yet.
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  #21  
Old 04-29-2021, 09:34 PM
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Sorry to hear this problem.

I do know how strong the threads actually are on say a .22 cleaning rod..You could put a 22 cleaning bronze brush on a section of cleaning rod maybe..Twist the rod clockwise to wrap what bore snake material you can get a hold of around the brush.

Clamp a vise grip on the protruding end of the rod..And try gently tapping rearward on the vise grips with a hammer..I would soak it up real good with some sort of lube first. Maybe even dump some dish washing detergent down there to slicken stuff up a bit.Just an idea..And do not blame me if it causes more problems.

On second thought, maybe steady pressure would be better than impacting the rod. Steady even pressure would work better I think and less likelihood of breaking it off..Maybe stick the tail end of the Rod in a vise when you get it wrapped up real good and use steady pulling pressure instead.. A heavy duty steel Military Cleaning Rod and Brush would be ideal, over a cheap aluminum rod.. Good luck and I will keep thinking on it..

Last edited by carbineone; 04-29-2021 at 09:55 PM.
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  #22  
Old 04-29-2021, 10:35 PM
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Be hard to get a hold of what you have access to and apply force without fiber tearing. The threading for zerk fitting and recrowning is best idea I see here. Got to enter salvage the barrel i’m Afraid.

Good luck.
SORRy to hear.
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  #23  
Old 04-30-2021, 05:51 AM
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If I recall correctly similar have been blown out with high pressure air and a tight fitting tip after being well lubed.
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  #24  
Old 04-30-2021, 12:34 PM
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After about eight hours of frustration, I finally got it out! Lerrab gets the kudos for the fish hook idea. I took a 3" long streamer hook, straightened it out, used thin copper wire to wrap the shank to a 10" x 1/8" brass rod, then soldered it all together so about 2 1/2" of the straightened hook protruded from the front. Shoved it into the breech until i could feel it penetrate the wadded up poly braid, then it pulled right out with a little muscle. Worked like a charm! THANK YOU Lerrab for the suggestion, and thank you all for your creative and interesting ideas. No more .17 cal bore snakes for me!
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  #25  
Old 04-30-2021, 01:06 PM
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That idea belonged to an old guy I used to pester about stuff when I was younger. He had all kinds of homemade gadgets. I was pretty sure it would work as long as you soldered the hook on tight. Glad you got it out.
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  #26  
Old 04-30-2021, 02:11 PM
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Have you checked the bore at the obstruction for a reason it hung up?
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  #27  
Old 04-30-2021, 02:52 PM
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Excellent. Well done .
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  #28  
Old 04-30-2021, 06:33 PM
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Woohoo!

How much do you owe to the swear jar?
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  #29  
Old 05-02-2021, 01:28 PM
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Glad you got it sorted out. The fish hook idea is excellent.

Just curious...how did you straighten out the hook?
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  #30  
Old 05-03-2021, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestrel4k View Post
How about going beyond acetone, to dissolve the poly material ?
I'm thinking carb cleaner, brake cleaner, xylene, those sorts of things.
Remove bbl from action, fill bbl with solvent, cap bbl end to prevent evaporation perhaps.
This might be the best route if you want to try something before a gunsmith. It should dissolve. Might take some of the material you ripped off and spray stuff on it to see what nuked it best.
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