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  #16  
Old 09-05-2019, 08:36 AM
fourbore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ammohog View Post
I am trying to wear out my MK IV Competition as fast as I can. So far, I have had no problems with lock-up. If I ever do have problems, this product has appealed to my better sense of judgement (whatever that's worth ):

https://volquartsen.com/inventory_configurations/1469
No actual experience with this repair, but; I tend to agree with the above and add another 2c worth of opinion: I think volquartsen is way ahead of the competition in the engineering dept. The very first post here backs that up. Having to fix up the retrofit repair parts, is getting a little to deep for me.

I will also 2nd or 3rd the thank you to LoneWolf
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  #17  
Old 09-05-2019, 08:41 AM
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Thanks sir.
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  #18  
Old 09-05-2019, 08:56 AM
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Exclamation

Interesting topic, solutions and ideas! Although I have no upper\lower lock-up issues with my MkIV Hunter and 22\45 Lite (yet), I also wanted to be pro active to hedge off any future problems.

I spoke to Ruger TS last year and they confirmed that the "rubber plug" on the standard framed MkIVs (SS and Al.) insures that the tight tolerances of the steel frames stay snugged up without binding or galling of the metal contact points. However, Ruger states the plug is a simple wear item that should last to 20K+ rounds. Ruger will provide a replacement plug to any owner experiencing play in the lock up!

I also asked about the absence of a "rubber plug" in their MkIV 22\45 Lite offering. Ruger stated that the slight flex of the polymer frames allows a consistent tight non galling lock-up fit that remains consistent throughout a life of usage, thus no need for a cushioned lock-up plug!!

Thanks to all who contributed Their solutions...keep em coming!

Ted
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  #19  
Old 09-07-2019, 10:22 AM
trapper bill
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I had no luck with the Ruger plugs they sent me. Some of these guns have wiggle from the locking block screw not being able to fully tighten the block like mine. You can tell after you take off the upper. Take the lip of the block and see if it rocks a little. I finally installed a VQ bedding gel. So far so good. I think these work so good as you put the upper on it squeezes the gel and you get a more spread out distribution of the gel where its needed . Not just in one spot like the plug. There is another post about the wiggle and the screw.
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  #20  
Old 09-08-2019, 09:37 AM
MyNameIsEarl
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I'm glad that so many methods have been tried to tighten up the fit on the MK IV. There is some misunderstanding of what is required for this model. In order to allow the receiver to separate from the frame, there must be a small amount of give at the locking assembly. It will not affect the accuracy potential. The receiver does not have to be rattling loose, but there does need to be a small amount of movement there. A rubber plug or silicone pad is the right solution.

MNIE
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  #21  
Old 01-28-2020, 09:15 AM
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Can the rubber plug be used with the gel pad? Can both be used at the same time? My 10" Mark IV stainless is new and has more movement than I want. I want it tight. Seems to me that Ruger should have used stronger springs in this new locking system for the stainless frames.
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  #22  
Old 01-28-2020, 10:38 AM
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I don't have the gel pad in question, but I pulled my still like new (used 2-6 times?) MK-IV Competition out this morning and looked closely at the rubber plug and came to some new conclusions.
Although it's nearly impossible to get an accurate measurement of the amount the little factory rubber plug sticks up (which is how it tightens the upper/lower fit, I think), I was making (front sight raising-) shims for a single-six-revolver recently and believe we're talking about something close to 0.020 of an inch, which is not much at all. This tells me you don't need to stack "shims" to get a tight fit. You could, but I'd suggest limiting the total thickness to something like a matchbook cover. An exception might be if your pistol had far in excess of 20,000 rounds thru it, and was very sloppy fitting.
Again, after looking at my MK-IV, I'm also revising my earlier comments about using the rubber feet/bumpers. Now I agree with agksimon & Flash 80 in using fuel line from small 2-cycle engines. This includes the soft (silicone?) R/C plane engine fuel line which looks dang close to being the perfect size to shove in the hole the factory plug goes into. But I'm guessing since I haven't removed my still like new factory plug.
At this point, I'd say anything up to about the thickness of a matchbook cover, that is soft enough to compress, would work in this situation. I could even see using (automotive) silicone gasket sealer/maker (which is available in black for the fashion conscious), but reckless application could create a big mess. In an emergency (at the range), you could even use a thin piece from a foam ear plug.

Last edited by LoneWolfSS454; 01-28-2020 at 10:41 AM.
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  #23  
Old 01-28-2020, 01:06 PM
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I am still using the cork automotive gasket material that I started using. It has worked flawlessly and never needed changed as of yet.
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  #24  
Old 01-29-2020, 05:08 PM
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As a new owner of the mark iv hunter this thread is really helpful. I have about 600 rounds through it so far and everything is still tight. Thanks everyone for all the input. I can't say enough good things about this site.
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  #25  
Old 01-29-2020, 08:37 PM
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I was wondering how loose 10 inch would be my hunter 6 7/8 was loose so I cut a piece of yellow chainsaw gas line works great once you figure how long you need to tighten but still go back together
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  #26  
Old 01-30-2020, 01:13 AM
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So far Turtle my 10" is good and tight. When or if it gets loose I plan on using the same automotive gasket material I used on my Hunter. But I bet your chainsaw fuel line works just as well.
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  #27  
Old 02-06-2020, 01:39 AM
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once upon a time, I setup to do all the "upgrades" using std parts.
(including the MA bank vault.)


HERE

We we're charging $25 a gun, Double your money back if you were dissatisfied. Only working locally so we had to "face" the customer.......Did a dozen or so guns, sold the remainder of parts on e-bay for $10 a kit, before telling the world "how to" in the ruger-forum post.

Problem was, no-one wanted a "Sleeper" ruger, they want to show off all that flash and flex their paychecks.


Then Ruger changed the design of the front hinge block...a few times...doing away with the thru hole. Then they added a RHS safety delete in the box and I had little left to sell in the way of a service.

I abandoned doing it and moved on to the shorty uppers.
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  #28  
Old 02-06-2020, 02:00 AM
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Ruger definitely watches the after market business. They seem to add what sells to their lineup.
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