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Old 10-31-2019, 12:18 PM
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Chaser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsmokeer View Post
I did the DIY bolt radius thing on both of my 10/22 bolts about 10 years ago.
This past weekend I had a Ka-Boom with one of the guns, shooting Remington Thunderbolt ammo (cheap-o, low quality, I know). I don't know if the gun was at fault or the ammo. I'm communicating with both Ruger and Remington now.

Anyhow, I have since cleaned and repaired my gun (it needed a new extractor and plunger; those were blown out of the gun and lost. And my Ram-line magazine plastic body was split at the seams.)

I then tested my gun with some PRIMED empty .22LR cases. I carefully pulled the bullets from 5 live rounds, being careful not to bend or deform the cases, or the rims, in any way. (I drilled .22" holes thu some 3/8" plywood and used that to hold the cartridges steady while I pulled the bullets with a big vice-grips pliers.

Using these empty cases in the chamber, I would manually pull the bolt back just a small amount and then pull the trigger. With the smallest amount of movement that I could do consistently, which I think is about 0.5 mm, the firing pin would hit the rim hard enough to fire the primer. At 1 mm of bolt-open, the rim of the case got touched, but not enough to detonate it. Pulling the bolt back more than 1 mm and holding it there during the hammer fall only resulted in a "click" that sounded like a dry fire, but the firing pin never hit the rim of the cartridge case.

BUT, I'm wondering if having the bolt 1 mm less than fully seated is far enough "out of battery" to allow the case to blow out just forward of the rim on a high velocity .22LR round. Is that what could have caused my ka-boom? (Let's set aside for a moment the question of why this round wouldn't have been fully chambered. Let's just assume the bullet or case mouth was slightly out of round, more oval shape, and thus it was a poor fit for the chamber.)

Has anybody else here done tests with their guns and snap-caps or empty brass to see what kind of firing pin strike you get from your 10/22s when you have the bolt less than 100% fully forward?

A factory-standard bolt that is not radiused should not be so easy to fire out of battery. The hammer would impact the bottom edge of the bolt before it got to the top part where the firing pin is. The more you radius, the more potential "out of battery" you can have while still smacking the firing pin. At least that's how it looks to me-- I'm not a machinist or mechanical engineer. But my ASVAB scores for mechanical aptitude were way up there, in the top 5%.
Just a few things I see that are a problem/redflag... Remington ThunderTurds, Ramline magazine and a real good chance ya may have a carboned up chamber that needs scrubbed.
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