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  #76  
Old 03-20-2019, 08:13 PM
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Well, today I sent the Ruger receiver, bolt, trigger assembly and Volquartsen barrel to CPC to have the full tune up done plus thread the barrel and receiver. I like to shoot and I shoot a lot so we will just see how good CPC's work is.
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  #77  
Old 03-21-2019, 09:29 AM
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Good morning gentlemen,
I have read every post on this thread and while I usually only read them, I decided to chime in on this topic. I've being shooting for 65 years, that doesn't make me good at it, just old. I can tell you in my experience, I have never seen nor shot a .22 with a muzzle brake on it that would group well at all. Many of you have posted great information and some I just don't agree with. For example:10 to 15 IP of torque is recommended by Tony Kidd for the v-block screws, not the take down screws. Each 22 I own does in fact have a mind of its on, ammo that performs well in one, will not shoot worth a flip in another, free floating a barrel may be perfect for one rifle, while another may need pressure along the barrel at some point. Each will need to be judged by the way it performs, there is no magic elixir that insures great performance. Before I started down the road of assembling my personal bench rest rifle, I read Sticky's, posts on multiple topics and Bill Calfee's book on rimfire accuracy. I chose my parts for what I perceived the best to use to construct a very accurate rifle, once assembled, started down the long road of ammo testing and kept extensive records of performance of each, along with weather conditions at the time of testing. I have what I consider and extremely accurate 10/22 as a result. My results were arrived at after spending, what my wife considers too much money and time on a worthless project. I call it a hobby!!!! At the end of the day what I found was this: The barrel/chamber/ammo must work together, the bolt must hold the round consistently in the chamber, you must have optics that allow you to see the target, a light clean breaking trigger enables you to shoot the rifle more consistently with out your trigger finger pulling the rifle off target and the stock connects the shooter and the barrel action together as one. I have played with torque settings, tuners, adding weight in the stock to change the balance point of the rifle, different rests and amounts of sand in the bags, you name it.
My point of this rant is, make a decision, test one change at a time, keep records and enjoy yourself in the never ending quest for perfection.
Good luck to all.
Kiddshooter
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  #78  
Old 03-21-2019, 05:16 PM
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kiddshooter, so you would have the comp cut off and recrowned? It will be recrowned but I don't plan on removing the comp.
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  #79  
Old 03-21-2019, 08:10 PM
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If the comp is permanent, I'd have it removed. My steel guns are all threaded with comps, and cleaning them is a royal pain in the butt. Pistols WAY more so than rifles, but still over time that will accumulate if you don't stay on top of it. And I'd be too lazy to stay on top of it much.

Its not carbon buildup thats the problem, its LEAD. I will only use pistol comps with large ports that I can get to. I clean them generally with a flat screwdriver sharpened up like a chisel and a small hammer. I've tried other solutions, but none ever did that great for massive lead removal. My rifle comp is just a TacSol with multiple small holes. I cleaned it with a drill bit and a hammer.

What I'm saying is that stuff builds up and is tough to clean. Also, the comp serves zero purpose on a 22 rifle other than looking cool. For steel shooting, people use them to make the gun louder so the timer picks up the shots. But for something that you aren't using a timer on, to me its just something to keep up with and like Kiddshooter said, it could affect accuracy. Will affect it once its dirty. I wouldn't have one on a normal 22 rifle. I'd have Randy lop that thing off.
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:26 PM
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I would have the permanent comp decapitated too.

I am sure your gun will group better w/o it.

You could ask Mr. Randy what his suggestion is though.
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  #81  
Old 03-22-2019, 10:02 AM
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Ok, I will be calling CPC on Monday and getting the comp removed. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

You know the old saying, if one person tells you something you may consider it as just a rumor but if 12 people tell you the same thing it's probably a fact.
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  #82  
Old 03-22-2019, 07:45 PM
Flash_80

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I would have said keep the comp had I not experienced the lead buildup after finally having one. It does look pretty neat on there, but thats really about the only purpose it serves.
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  #83  
Old 03-25-2019, 02:14 PM
Kiddshooter

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KOD,
Sorry to be so slow answering your question.
Yes, I would cut it off or most likely just sell it and buy a Kidd 20" Stainless.
Admittedly they look cool, but for me, I believe they have a negative affect on accuracy and I don't want to fool with trying to clean them.
I'll be very interested in the results you get, once you get the rifle back from CPC.
Good Luck,
Kiddshooter
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  #84  
Old 03-25-2019, 03:21 PM
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I talked to Randy at CPC today. I modified my PO and sent it to him requesting the fixed muzzle brake be removed. He said muzzle brakes were a hit or miss and didn't have a recommendation to remove or keep it. I want it removed to eliminate the "what if" scenario.

I am currently experimenting with muzzle attachments on my Tikka T1x 22LR. One, my SCO muzzle brake has shown improvement while two others have not. Like Randy said, I guess it's a hit or miss call? Having a removable one would have been ideal.
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