RimfireCentral.com Forums - View Single Post - Question About Mounting A Red Dot
View Single Post
Old 11-04-2010, 12:51 AM
US Navy Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jun 2010
Martinsburg, WV
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
I personally don't like the full rail models. It eliminates the possibility of putting a compensator on the barrel as long as it is there.
For non full rail models there are several brands of weaver type rails that replace the iron sight rail, Tac Sol, Weigand, Weaver, etc. The best combo is the Tactical Solutions rail with the built in rear sight. This gives you the option of using iron sights or mounting a scope or red dot. If you don't plan on ever using the iron sights they and the rest make a rail with no rear sight also.
As for fiber optics the choices are adding an F-O sight on the front only like a HiViz or using the original iron sight rail and mounting a full set of Williams F-O sights. Personally I like the Tac Sol rear and the fiber optic HiViz in front as this is similar to several of my centerfire pistols.
But I have a set of Williams mounted on a rail also, I just don't like the small size that much. With the HiViz you get several sizes of light pipes in both red and green to better match the notch size of your rear sight.
With a Buckmark there are 2 ways to buy and soup it up. If you are planning to make major changes like barrels, rails, sights, triggers, and grips for instance it makes no sense to buy anything but the cheapest one you can find. You will be changing most of the things that make the models different. So a basic Camper model for $299 or a used one makes sense. If you want to buy one a particular way like a Contour or a URX Lite then buy it that way and enjoy it.
As for red dots I tend to be opininated as a competition shooter as I have tried lots of them.
In my opinion mini red dots are not the best unless you buy the really good ones in the $200+ range, at least for a pistol. They are fine for indoor work or for keeping the dot as low on the bore axis as possible, but they mostly are not always bright enough for bright sunlit ranges. Just depends on how well they are made. For full size models, either reflex (holographic) or tube type, if you only got to the range some times and you don't shoot 500-1000 or more rounds a month for competitive practice and are not using a very light race type BM, most of them will work, even the cheap $50 models. And don't bet that the ones with the factory name on them that cost more are much better than the no-name ones that admit they are made in China.
When it comes to the cheap reflex type, the only ones I have used and recommend at the lowest level are TruGlo. Their red/green dual color is not bad. Otherwise if you want to be serious you skip the weaver rail and buy an Allchin direct mount ($45) and a C-More ($200).
This combo allows you to remove only the rear sight mount screw and then the barrel screw to take the sight and barrel off in one piece for cleaning and put it back on without losing the POA.
Browning does not make a complete stainless gun like say the Ruger Mk III. Stainless guns are a Ruger thing ( I have 2 of their SS revolvers). Browning frames are made using a forged aluminum alloy block that is CNC machined into a very tight and solid frame. As a result the only way Ruger can make a .22 that is even close to the lightest weight you can get a Browning built to is the polymer frame 22/45 with a Tac Sol alloy receiver and barrel on top.
I know I have a Ruger 22/45 also and while it is a nice shooting gun, with about $200 worth of Volquartsen accurizing parts on it, it is no match for my Browning.
Reply With Quote