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Old 12-04-2018, 04:18 PM
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As you pull the slide back, you are pushing the disconnector down, so there will be a little extra effort for the first 1/2", but as long as the hammer was already cocked, you're mostly just compressing the recoil spring.

Some initial roughness is normal, until the parts wear a little. There are a lot of surfaces where the slide rubs against other parts... (1) the top edge of the slide can rub the bottom of the rail, (2) the inside top half of the slide rubs both sides of the frame post (where the rear rail screw goes into the frame), (3, 4, 5, 6) on both the left side and right side, the bottom part of the slide can rub both the outside of the frame, and top of the frame (effectively the frame "rails"). (7) The recoil spring rubs on the recoil guide rod. (8) On older Buckmarks, the top of the recoil guide (black tombstone-shaped piece) would rub the bottom of the rail, but I'm not sure if the newer assembly still does that. (9) Inside the slide, it pushes the disconnector down and lets it up, but that surface is hard to lube without taking the gun apart. (10) And of course, if the hammer is not cocked, the bottom center of the slide will do that by rubbing the top of the hammer.

Buckmarks do NOT need to be dripping oil like a 1911, but it may help to lube all of those surfaces (except #9) a little bit. Lock the slide back, drip some oil onto a q-tip, and touch each of the surfaces where it rubs around the opening between the slide and the barrel, plus the exposed portion of the recoil guide rod, plus the top edges of the slide at the rear, then turn the gun upside down, and touch all the areas you can reach inside the slide (behind the frame).

For the light strikes... can you tell the difference between the strikes that work and the ones that don't (meaning... is the gun really doing occasional light strikes, or is it just a bad ammo lot)? When you get a failure to fire, use a marker to mark the strike that didn't work, then load the round again, and after it fires, find the casing, and compare the new strike to the old one. All strikes should be about the same depth, and have well-defined edges.

The fact that it sometimes fails the plunk test suggests that the chamber (not the breech face) may be dirty. Have you used a bronze brush to clean out the chamber?

Other things to check... do the light strikes happen will multiple magazines? Do they only happen with the first or last round from the magazine? When they happen, does it look like the slide is ALL the way forward into battery, or being held back a 32nd of an inch? Do the rounds that fail to fire get successfully extracted and ejected when you pull the slide back?

If you take the slide off and push the back of the firing pin forward until it's flush with the slide (simulating the hammer strike) how far does the front of the firing pin extend beyond the face of the slide (inside the circular cutout for the shell casing)? It should extend at least half the depth of the cutout (but ideally not beyond the edge of the cutout... because then it can hit the barrel). Also note that the firing pin should slide forward with only a little pressure, and when you release pressure, it should slide back into place under the power of the firing pin spring alone (you shouldn't have to help it).

Those are some initial thoughts.

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