Rimfire Central Firearm Forum banner

bolt buffers and malfunctions?

5K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  Steeveedee 
#1 ·
I came across an interesting debate on a Facebook 10/22 group the other day about bolt buffers vs the factory metal bolt stop pin and I thought I'd ask the real 10/22 experts here on your thoughts.

The argument being made was that Ruger has been using the standard metal bolt stop pin for over 50 years and that the whole action of bolt, spring tension, bolt stop pin etc etc is all engineered and designed to work together and that putting in an energy-absorbing buffer is throwing all those calculations and designs out of whack and making the gun more prone to various malfunctions.

Now like many, one of the first things I do when I get a new 10/22 is replace the pin with a buffer.

I have shot 10s of thousands of rounds with various buffers. It seems to work fine but of course there is always a certain number of various malfunctions from time to time.

My question is, will a buffer be a factor in more malfunctions and will the factory pin result in less over time?

Other than reducting the metal-on-metal "clack" of the metal pin, is there any other advantage to a buffer?

What say you?
 
See less See more
#7 ·
True that ^^^^^

I've proven this for myself; I applied a transferable contact agent - lipstick- to my buffer. Shot a couple hundred rounds of SV ammo and there wasn't a speck of red on my bolt. Years ago, this was proven by an RFC member, IIRC it was Chief Dave who ran a glass rod for a buffer.

Bottom line is they're just better than the OEM metal rod.
Nick- I shoot 100% SV ammo....and I run Kidd buffers. While I agree that they're "better", from a practical standpoint the only thing they're better at is staying in the receiver when my action is removed from the stock. ;):D:bthumb:

DrGunner
 
#8 ·
True that ^^^^^

I've proven this for myself; I applied a transferable contact agent - lipstick- to my buffer. Shot a couple hundred rounds of SV ammo and there wasn't a speck of red on my bolt. Years ago, this was proven by an RFC member, IIRC it was Chief Dave who ran a glass rod for a buffer.

Nick- I shoot 100% SV ammo....and I run Kidd buffers. While I agree that they're "better", from a practical standpoint the only thing they're better at is staying in the receiver when my action is removed from the stock. ;):D:bthumb:

DrGunner
I have learned something today, lol!

Thanks, Dr. G:beerchug:
 
#4 ·
i replaced the trigger assembly pins on my three Ruger 10/22 receivers w/spring-ball-bearing pins and all bolt buffers w/ Delrin rod... now i don't have the pins or the buffer falling out on the bench and onto the floor... (then rolling under some dark recess to never be found again)

now if only i can find a better pin for the @#%%! magazine catch...

(i know, i know, blue painters tape).

;-)

willie
on the Gulf of Mexico
 
#5 ·
That’s the one that gets me too! Dar ML pin:eek:

I bought off on the synthetic bolt buffer theory. And they are right with some hv ammo , and hyper ammo the bolt does clack against it. But with Sv it doesn’t. A guy on eBay sells a ss oversized v block and pin kit , and I’ve been using those, including the oversized bolt buffer. So much easier to get in than the tubular gummy bears.
 
#6 ·
The only reason that Ruger still makes them that way is the same reason they still have awful trigger's, bolt's, receivers, etc. It's because they can. They could put a wooden dowel in there and they would still sell millions of them. Nobody has given them any reason to spend any extra time and $ changing parts because most people are either going to shoot them as is for plinking or go with aftermarket parts. I'm sure the people on Facebook could come up with plenty of reasons why Ruger doesn't use their BX trigger in all their 10/22's also. The only real reason is because they just don't have to to sell them. I use aftermarket buffers in every 10/22 I've ever owned and have never had any issues. Bottom line is they're just better than the OEM metal rod.
 
#9 ·
I shoot almost exclusively SV ammo. One of the very first mods I made in my very first 10/22 years ago was a derlin bolt buffer. I noticed the difference the first 10 rounds I sent downrange. The rifle just seemed to be "softer" shooting and didn't make that little "clank" noise when it was fired. Back then I thought it was the greatest thing ever. While I agree when shooting SV ammo the bolt isn't supposed to hit the buffer it seems to me that many times it still does. I don't know if it's because I use Kidd guide rods with medium weight springs in all my rifles and the action runs smoother. But I do know that first one I did at the time had an OEM bolt and charging handle. Not disagreeing with anyone, just saying my experience seems to be a little different than some.
 
#10 ·
Nick..
This part.. "While I agree when shooting SV ammo the bolt isn't supposed to hit the buffer it seems to me that many times it still does. I don't know if it's because I use Kidd guide rods with medium weight springs in all my rifles and the action runs smoother."

Some actions if slicked up (CrotchBite) and slippery as a seals arss with the best lube (Hornady One Shot Dry Lube IMO) and using the best components they may just do that... only way to know is do the Dr. G lipstick test... and while I do not care on my rigs one way or another it would be interesting to see... I agree it is possible for the fact that I have some older/slicker actions that I can manually charge with very little resistance... 20 to 30% less felt pressure/resistance than some of my newer ones.
And I have approx. 60 OEM Steel pins if anybody wants some ;):D
 
#14 ·
I guess Im on the fence with this one. I have some of both types of stop pins in my rifles . My current oldest is a '94 international with steel pin that hardly shows any ware at all. absolutely no damage at all that I can detect. And this one has seen its share of HV ammo.I dont remember ever having, or seeing, a receiver or bolt or any other part damaged because of either. If anyone has photos of such damage please post, as I would be interested in seeing that. Also as to Ruger taking the cheap and easy way out on this one, it seems to me that a machined and hardened steel pin involves more time and cost than a piece of plastic. Just an old mans opinion. Thanks TDP
 
#17 ·
No machining at all to a piece of steel rod and $ .06 worth of fuel line but some people pay $6.00 for that. Then you have to face the east and bow 3 times while standing on your head to install and call it good. Which is cool if you like those.
After reading this thread, especially Dr Gunner, from whom I have gleaned much good info from his knowledge and experience, Im considering just leaving the thing out all together. Can't hurt. Can it?
But all joking aside I have started thinking , which has been known to be almost fatal at times, about experimenting with a wooden dowel just for kicks and giggles.
Let you know how that turns out.
TDP

P.S. Yep, d*** things do fall out:bthumb:
 
#18 ·
I suggest that....

You use whatever "floats yer' boat". Some things are simply personal preferance & if you don't want to follow the heard, go your own way. I suggest that you use buffers & whatever else that works for you & that you have confidence in.

If going with wood, I highly recommend mesquite dowles as they are much more supple & hold up better than than what's available from the local hardware store. Especially with HV ammo......;)

BTW....I cut my own from a proprietary stock....
 
#21 ·
I'm not really concerned about the OEM buffer causing any damage, although I have seen pictures where the receiver has cracks coming from the buffer hole. I just prefer the aftermarket ones. One of the reasons why Ruger probably still uses them is because, unlike a derlin buffer the steel ones never wear out and have to be replaced. Also they're impervious to all the different solvents and oils that people use. I don't think they necessarily "machine" them. They probably get lengths of steel rod and cut hundreds of them at a time. It probably cost them a couple cents each. I'm assuming there's a reason why all the other companies other than Ruger making 10/22's don't use steel buffers.
 
#23 ·
I went with the Kidd style bolt buffer pin. I should/could have made my own, but I did buy the first one. I didn't care about any clanking. My issue was that the scope screws (replaced the factory mount with a Pic rail setup) kept coming loose, and with the original dovetail scope mount, the scope actually started to slide off the rail. This was with any ammo I've shot through it. With the vacuum hose :eek: buffer pin, I've run about a thousand rounds through it without scope issues. I've never seen this with anyone else's rifle. I was scratching my head for quite awhile.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top