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am I wasting my time -- accuracy with takedown

61K views 188 replies 82 participants last post by  milkroute 
#1 ·
Hello all, first post here.
I am a long time shooter but fairly new to rimfire.
I shoot a lot of pistol/shotgun and some 6.5 creed but recently I have really been enjoying my ruger markII and have gotten extremely accurate with it.

I bought a marlin and a savage for my kids and have shot them a fair bit, the savage is actually pretty accurate but I dont really like either of them.

Anytime I go to the range alone I take my motorcycle and I would really like to be able to stick a takedown 22 in my saddle bag.

I have been searching all over the internet and I am still not sure if the ruger 10/22 is up to the task. I do like the takedown models and would not mind putting a few hundred into it in upgrades if the end result would be a takedown rifle with acceptable accuracy.

So -- for those of you who shoot for accuracy alone, what kind of groups is the ruger 10/22 takedown with some reasonable upgrades capable of at 50yds given the right rest/shooter/ammo ?


Any help greatly appreciated
 
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#47 ·
That's not bad at all, matter of fact that's right nice for the gun in question.. Unadorned- does that mean no optic ? just the barrel mounted iron sights ? If so are you still a teen with 20/20 eagle vision ? Next question, is the rifle broke down after each use and put in the back pack ?

I'm finding the same impact shift as others after being broke down and back packed..
 
#36 · (Edited)
Greetings...

I don't think many of these people have much horse packing experience.

I've spent at least 2 years doing exactly what you described. I wouldn't hesitate
a moment taking my 10/22 takedown with me. In fact, I'd probably no go without it!

You aren't looking for nor expecting a "Target" rifle. Just an exceptionally good bullet
tool. Good enough to get lunch, dispose of varmints and help eradicate pests.
Something you can pack and quickly assemble to dispatch a munchible bunny,
or have fun ventilating those pesky empties before the sun sets...

While I'm more inclined to recommend a non breakdown rifle, personally, I'd reach
for my 10/22 takedown over any of the others, because I've actually packed a horse
to spend a few days in the middle of nowhere...

Keep in mind, that I'd also have a big (deer) caliber in a rifle scabbard on the horse too,
in addition to a .22 pistol and a 9mm...

But then, I'm a gun nut...
 
#37 ·
I recently bought a TD and have been playing with it. It is stock except for fiber optic sights and a pic rail. Accuracy so far is disappointing. I put 10 shots each of 10 different rounds through it today (HV, SHV, SV and subsonic) at 50 yards and the best was Blazer. Stingers shot better than expected and Velocitor was the only round it jammed on. I had removed the barrel band but I will replace it next trip. I will play with the barrel tension. I had a scope issue today. I noticed the variable adjustment would not turn after 150 rounds. I suspect it locked up sooner since it was shooting high when I started the 10 target string. When I got it home I removed the scope and it turned. Something torqued it, possibly the pic rail heated up. It is torqued down and blue loctite. It did not come loose. Rings were the old Weaver steel rings. My old 10-22 with the folding stock is a lot more accurate. So is my Charger.
 
#38 ·
I've never bench rested my TD so can't speak to it's accuracy vs a CZ or Anschutz, but it most certainly holds zero perfectly well. The shots I made when I first bought it a couple of years ago can still be made after dozens of take downs and put together's. I've also never adjusted the barrel nut.
 
#39 ·
I get great accuracy from my Takedown, especially when you consider what the original design was intended for. At no point was a Takedown made for bench rest accuracy, but I can consistently, pretty much every shot, hit a 6" gong at 200 yards in the prone position. That's pretty accurate for a survival/backpacking rifle!
 
#40 · (Edited)
I torqued the action screw to 18 inch lbs on the factory stock and replaced the barrel band. It tightened up considerably. The old Weaver rings were causing a torquing problem on the scope so I changed to quick release rings with 4 screws each and that problem went away but it made the cheek weld problem worse. I installed a Vortex Venom 2 moa red dot and sighted it in. The Venom is much clearer than the TRS25. I was able to hold 20 Federal bulk 36 grain in the 2" bull at 50 yards with the red dot. Someone left a 5" splatter target at 100 yards and I was able to get 10 rounds into it once I figured out the hold over. Almost all in the lower half. Now I will have to look at a trigger. It is not horrible but not great either. Breaks clean but a hard pull. I held off on the trigger to see if it deserved one. Next will be the 10 targets and 10 different rounds again.
Mikem, I would have been happy with that target. Mine was about double that except for the Blazer.
 
#43 ·
Yep I have that trigger

I shoot mine with a BX trigger also. My complaint is the groups move around with every mag change. Using a Bug Buster scope and it is on tight. Removing the barrel doesn't change anything but changing mags or even reloading the same one causes the POI to move all around the 2" target dots. If I get it zeroed in on the center which say takes 5 shots and move to a different target dot I can get the last five in the mag to group fairly tight. Reload the mag an it is shooting outside the dot in a random direction never just left or low or at 2 o'clock. Frustrating as all get out. Think the scope is the problem?
 
#44 ·
could it be a parallax issue? Is it when you move your face, and now have a new sight picture, - is that when the group moves?

UTG is a good scope, and you should make sure you have the AO adjusted for your range. I have my BB mounted on my son's (non TD) and it's accurate mag to mag.
Your's should be too.

Make sure it's not you vs. the scope.
 
#45 ·
I don't think so



I shoot other 22lr rifles with scopes and don't have any issues like I have with this rifle.
Shot a friends 10-22 with a bull barrel yesterday it has a scope with a 100 yd n/a parallax setting. At 30 yds on 6x could hit POA consistently with 3 different ammo and FPS. A Tasco 3-12 power scope with cheap mounting rings. Moved out to 75 yds on 12x and still hitting in a 1" group with cheap ammo.
I really would like to get rid of the TD and get something else. It has BX trigger JWH bolt Magpul stock and the Bug Buster. I think I'll take a beating on a trade-in lol.
 
#46 ·
With the TD they can be sensitive if you are resting the forearm on something - it will flex things and change your POI - if the support point changes or pressure changes.

Also will be a function of how tightly you have adjusted the barrel tensioning screw.
Most tighten it so that you have to use some effort to get the barrel on / off. that reduces flex
 
#48 ·
i have several TDs - two Chargers and a 16.5" SS TD... i use a Simmons scope on my 16.5" with iron sights/cheap red dots on the Chargers..

I had to remove the scope when I swapped the Ruger TD stock for a Magpul X22 (it got in the way on the bench). With fingers crossed, I re-attached the scope in the same position, then went to the range (with the TD broken down in its bag) and ran the 10 rounds using CCI standard velocity (1070fps, 40-grain LRN) at 25yds through a clear rotary mag. I made sure to first cycle the bolt several times before loading the magazine. After a couple deep breaths, here were the results:



i'm more than satisfied... this year i'll have access to longer ranges (50/100yd), so it will be interesting to see what this crotchety, half-blind old codger can achieve...

:)

willie
on the Gulf of Mexico
 
#49 ·
I recently installed the X22 stock and it made a big difference in accuracy. Even got a decent group with Federal bulk @ 50 yards and the Aguila SV group was a lot better. Now I need a scope with finer cross hairs. looking at the Leupold VX Freedom 1.5-5X20 with pig plex or the Leupold FX II 2.5X20. Both will work in low rings and still go in the bag.
 
#50 ·
I installed the Leupold FX 1.5-4x20 on low rings yesterday and went to the range. It fits the gun perfectly and I dont need the high comb. Fits in the bag with the backpacker stock. With the finer cross hairs I got a 1" group at 50 yards with Fed Bulk :eek: and a little less with Aguila SV. It would be a good squirrel gun and very capable of head shots out to 50 yards. Pretty happy with this now but it was a chore getting there.
 
#52 ·
I know this defeats the purpose of the takedown, but I keep my locking ring very tight and the rifle assembled always. I use a X22 backpacker stock and carry it in a regular rifle bag. I find the assembled rifle (mine anyways) is very accurate compared to my regular 10/22's. I'm using a ruger 16" threaded stainless barrel and that with the X22 stock and a Nikon 2-7 scope give excellent performance. I have no need to keep taking it apart and reassembling it, I just leave it alone. Actually it's my most favorite 22 rifle to shoot.
 
#53 · (Edited)
I just got a chance to shoot my Talo 10/22 today. Has the Backpacker stock, threaded 16.4" barrel, and hi-vis sights.

I didn't buy this as a target rifle, I bought it as a truck gun for camping. It's accurate enough to take small game from 25-50 yards IMO.

https://ruger.com/products/1022Takedown/specSheets/21188.html



I've got the locking ring fairly snug as well but not so tight I can't break it down and reassemble it.
 
#54 ·
After trying anything an still not satisfied with my TD I have now invested in a VQ barrel with cantilever scope mount. Can never sell the TD cause I've got too much invested in it now. In hindsight I could just as well have bought a complete VQ rifle. Looking forward to testing it.
 
#56 ·
Unfortunately anyone trying to make the TD into a bench gun is going to be disappointed no matter how much $ they pour into it. It's not a target gun, and it was not designed to be. It was designed as something that could be stowed away in a space not larger enough for a full sized rifle that can be pulled out and assembled quickly without any tools. IMO it does a great job for what it was intended for. That's not to say they can't be accurate. I've gotten some great 50 yrd groups out of my TD's. The problem is I can't get them consistently. The design of the TD just doesn't allow it to be a consistent 1/2" rifle. But even out of the box it should be fine for plinking and shooting small game.
 
#58 ·
I don't think so. Of the two barrels and two receivers I've tried, the fit is snug.

Anyone who isn't able to get consistent accuracy out of theirs should take a methodical approach (ammo, stock, scope, trigger, bipod/bag, weather variables, etc.) to determine why. I saw a guy at the indoor range complaining that his new budget AR15 wouldn't group well, and that was at about 10 yards. I asked if I could try it out. Once I tightened down his cheap red dot, I put three rounds through one hole, and handed it back to him.

It's easy to blame the tool, but there's almost always a solution. Now, if you've strapped it into something like a Lead Sled, and it's not shooting well, that's another story.
 
#59 ·
Mine shoot fine, but the comment that its not a target/ bench rest gun, just flumexed me. Id assume that if you bought a better barrel/ chamber , it could shoot better .

My stainless, in th MP stock , lives in its bag, cause its portable. My french walnet lives in the safe assembled. The td feature is for cleaning. It goes to the range in a standard case.

I think the accuracy issue goes hand in hand with the ul, tension barrels, which to be honest seem like a gimmick.
 
#63 ·
The scope being mounted on the receiver and not the barrel is the biggest accuracy issue in my opinion. The early Browning takedown rifles were the same way and had accuracy issues. After they moved the scope mounting location to the barrel, the accuracy greatly improved.
 
#67 · (Edited)
My experience with my takedown has been overall good, but I'm using it purely recreationally and as a plinker. However, I do try to improve things every time out. I suspect now I've got the barrel nicely seasoned and I'm learning more an more about the lockup. My scope is receiver mounted (Nikon Prostaff 2x7 100yd parallax). Part of my accuracy problems at close range may be the parallax, but my tests show it is marginal at worst.

I've been doing a barrel/receiver cleaning along with overspray polishing in the receiver after every range outing just getting things smoothed out. My mods so far are a Kidd 2lb trigger, Kidd extractor and Kidd guide rod and charging handle. Those changes, plus use, have given my action total reliability with Aguilar SV ammo (plus a bunch of others in small batches). I shoot a lot of spinner targets at 50yds and so bullseye accuracy isn't required, but one spinner combo are two independently spinning figure 8s, one inside another with about a 1/2" gap between the plates. I can do a quick zero by shooting the gaps/edges-of gaps right/left & top/bottom. I figure that boxes in things within about a 1/2" bull at 50. So if I have a dumbell spinner "stuck" so it's edge-on, I can start it spinning again and pick the direction.

At first when I replaced the barrel after cleaning, I'd have to tweak the cross hairs a bit to make up for the optic/barrel misalignment. Now I have settled in on setting the tightening adjustment collar on the receiver to four (4) clicks past the Ruger starting recommendation. On my gun, that's getting pretty tight. The resultant is that I'm having to make very few sight tweaks. IOW, it's holding zero. It was close before, certainly within the bottom of a soda can at 50 - perhaps half that, but now it's certainly within ammo/cross-hair variations. My scope is a Nikoplex, so it's not the target cross hairs.

Over the next few weeks, I'll start a more serious regimen on trying to quantify it's shooting performance. I'll probably start at 25yds and adjust to zero as best I can. Shoot several 5-shot bulls to test the rest of the system (including me), maybe one row of targets to see if I can bring out the parallax demon. That should be close to a range session for the "precision work". Before quitting, try another row removing/replacing the barrel for each group/target. Then home, clean, start the next week's session at 25yd for zero and then move to 50 and repeat. Unfortunately I have to change ranges for 100, but it may be that my scope crosshairs and eyesight (with that 7x mag limit) will cause me to put that off for a while.

I currently shoot off a soft bag and squeeze bag, I haven't been too careful about where the forearm is resting. Once I get a bit further down the road, that will be in my tests. I'm curious if the takedown system can handle the "stress" of a bipod.

Since I have to go out of my way for 100, it may be that this is just my club 50yd gun. That's what/why I bought it anyway. We were supposed to go for plates at 40, but too many guys had high power scopes so they opted for a different discipline. Since my starting point was a red dot and bad eyes, I opted for a low power scope when the rules changed.

This is all pretty much just like life. :) Love it.

In edit: I'll have to say that the even an an experienced shooter, restarting my range fun with an off the shelf 10/22 takedown and this forum have recharged my interest in rimfire shooting, and taught me a whole lot more about my ability to tackle this platform, my mechanical skills, and my approach to dealing with the capabilities of this rifle. It was exactly the wrong rifle for me from the beginning - but I didn't know my club was going another direction and I didn't know my residential/travel situations was going to change. I should have sold it, but then I wouldn't be here having all this fun. Thanks for this forum, for your dedication to this craft and all the information you so patiently post.
 
#72 ·
Lets define accuracy as a five shot group at 50 yards. And smaller group is more accurate. I can always re zero my optic. Although on mine I’ve never had to. So the loss off poi on reassembly, if true, cause I’ve never experienced It, isn't loss of accuracy. what i want to know is why cant i get dime size groups out of mine, like i get with a non take down 1022. Is the chamber cut different? Is there two much slop between the bolt and the chamber ? Does the barrel move more?
 
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