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Old 07-27-2009, 06:47 PM
kingshouse41225
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I am not completely familiar with how tightly the Clark bushing fits. I made my own and it looks different than the clark bushing. You probably have some binding somewhere. Remove the mainspring and upper and try the hammer by hand. It should freely pivot with no binding. It is normal for hammer strut rivet head to (barely) touch the safety lever. If it is rubbing it (the rivet head) can be polished. Ideally there should be no slop between the hammer and bushing and between the bushing and the pin but one or both needs to turn freely.

Changing to a lighter hammer will make the problem worse.

Check your trigger adjustments to make sure the hammer is not dragging on the sear as it falls. You need SOME pretravel and SOME post travel. It is easier to check your adjustments with the lower assembled (minus mainspring) and the upper removed. At the correct pretravel screw adjustment you should still feel the sear rubbing on the hammer as you bring the hammer back, and at the correct post travel adjustment you should not feel the sear rubbing on the hammer at all as you move the hammer by hand (while holding the trigger back).

Make sure the hammer is in the same position (side to side) with the clark bushing as it was with the original bushing/lever/spring in place. The hammer should not be centered; it is offset to the left slightly, as is the cup in the mainspring housing.

If the end of you hammer strut is rough it would help to polish it, but roughness there would not suddenly cause light strikes unless the hammer position is also shifted.

Sounds like you did not touch the firing pin, so you should not. Only look at what you changed.

Last edited by kingshouse41225; 07-27-2009 at 06:51 PM.
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