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Old 11-27-2009, 03:59 PM
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Aug 2008
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A little closer to the finish line.

If it wasn't for needing to make a living, this would be finished long ago....

I like to paint a stock ( which will be finished w/ paint anyway ) with gray or white primer after my rough sanding but prior top final sanding. I find I spot mistakes more easily. The paint will be sanded or stippled away on this subject. On other stocks, the paint remaining in the pores many times gives a modest "camo" appearance. This only applies to open grain wood...oak, mahogany, etc. If stippling will be applied, keep two things in mind. First, no need to finish sand if diamond burrs are used...they will remove the top layer anyway. And, sharp corners must be blunted or the edge becomes very thin and will break at some point due the the burr undercutting the wood close to the edge. This one needs blunting on the fore end.

A reminder for those having problems with cracking at the wrist. Many times this will never stop, but if it will be refinished anyway, and the cracks are larger than hairline, but not huge, apply a non-viscous or super glue type of glue to a thoroughly heated stock. It will be "sucked" into the cracks and penetrate the wood fibers. If you try this, do it correctly the first time or the surface is sealed and no second chances.

I did not like my trigger finger rubbing the stock, so rasped a finger groove on the stock belly, forward of the grip area. This looks terrible, but it will work out in the end...and soon I hope! I will 3 color paint camo this stock/metal/scope. Ready to attach large bolt handle now.

Forgot to mention prior, this is a "Stealth" style standing silhouette stock, ..............chin not cheek weld.

More to come,


Last edited by RET; 11-27-2009 at 04:05 PM.
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