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newbie to best ways to sharpen knives

11K views 23 replies 17 participants last post by  000Robert 
#1 ·
For many years, I have sharpened my own pocket knives and hunting knives with mixed results! After coming to this site and reading most of the threads, I realize that I am a total neophyte! Can someone recommend a good book with the different methods, devices, and proper ways to stone sharpen, steel usage, stropping, etc! Assume I know little to nothing! Thanks, Tom
 
#2 ·
Lansky.

http://www.smkw.com/webapp/eCommerce/products/Lansky/Lansky®+Deluxe+Sharpening+System/SI1100.html

I would also recommend getting yourself a 10x loupe so you can see the edge. You can rub a stone on a knife all day, but if you cannot see if you have gone all the way to the edge, you will never get it sharp. The loupe allows you to keep using one stone on one edge until you have your new edge all the way to the edge. Then turn the knife over and repeat, working your way down through all the stones. I can sharpen mine in about 5 minutes to a razor edge.

Now, if you want something fast, this thing here is awesome...

http://www.worksharptools.com/sharpeners-13/work-sharp-knife-and-tool-sharpener.html
 
#3 ·
Thanks Gizzy! I have already ordered the standard Ever Sharp per you and other guy's recommendations! Mainly, because of my collection of kitchen knives that would take foreever with conventional stones! If I go the Lansky route, which model would you recommend? Tom
 
#4 ·
I use the Lansky system and a 10X loupe so I can view progress to the edge. I use to sharpen freehand, meaning I just held the blade at the angle I thought was about right. The problem is that no two strokes are probably ever at the same angle. The Lansky system fixed that issue, as long as you develop a method to clamp the blade at the same position each time. When the blade becomes dull, you just clamp it at the same position, and begin making passes with whichever stone you choose until both sides of the fresh edge meet each other.

Lots of people progress down to a super fine stone to get a polished edge. I think that is fine if all you intend to do is shave with it. But if you want a decent cutting edge, the edge needs a bit of tooth to it. That's why I use a medium stone. It's like having a micro-serrated edge on your knife. It cuts easier and cuts longer than a super fine edge that dulls after a few uses.
 
#5 ·
tcr1146 The Spyderco tri-angle sharpmaker is great for beginners and allows you to sharpen blades at either 15 or 20 degrees and is available with several different sharpening stones. Another great thing about this sharpener it is great for retouching blades .I've even use this to sharpen small axes or hatchets you cannot use good system for reprofiling but for basic sharpening it works really good The Sharpener is also very portable
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#6 ·
I just use an Eze-Lap diamond coated flat steel, then drag the edge through a carbide sharpener to burnish it. Goghlan's makes a nice thin one with a butterfly shape.

I don't look for or want a razor edge, too fragile, just a good working edge. I've sharpened this way for years with no problem.
 
#11 ·
Looking through a pair of binoculars "backwards" works in the place of a loupe in a pinch. But use binoculars, trying to hold or balance them is not nearly as convenient as a loupe, try and you'll see. However, I can get away with a nice 4x magnifying glass on a stand that has a built in light for checking edge progress.
 
#12 ·
I don't sharpen my knives all that often with stones. Mostly I just touch up the edges with a steel hone. If the hone isn't enough, then I go to a stones/ceramic rods. I have an Opinel pocket knife that I about ground away before I figured out that removal of a ton of steel from the blade is not required for a good working edge.
 
#14 ·
Define "best"....

What do you plan to do with it?
What type of steel is your knife made of?

It sounds like a really dumb question but that first part will help point you in the right direction so that you get what you think you will be getting.

For example - "push cutting" and slicing are totally different operations. They generally require very different types of edges. These two are totally different operations from hacking, bushcraft, and run of the mill toe-picking duty....

I will give you an example.
Often edges that "push cut" well (aka shaving hairs) do not slice well. They tend to skid rather than grab in a slicing cut. Edges that slice really aggressively often don't push cut well... So you have to pick one.

I find that a Worksharp with 80 grit band followed up by a quality steel is great in the kitchen. It makes edges that slice well and is easy to fix when the wife beats the edges on a glass or tile cutting board. I consider those knives "disposable" - so I don't care if the edges get ground down over a few years.

On the other hand - my wood chisels need to push cut efficiently. I run through many grits and then strop them so they will cut off beautiful thin curls of wood....

I find the edges on my stainless steel knives last over 2x as long when I sharpen on diamond rather than on conventional stones.... BUT I get a better edge on my carbon steel knives with conventional stones...

And so it goes....
Pick your poison, there is no "Best" everything.
 
#15 ·
But if you just want to buy a product that will put a good enough edge on your blade:

A Lansky diamond sharpening system - the Deluxe kit that comes with coarse/ medium/ fine/ extra fine.

Or

A Spyderco Sharp Maker.

If you want to go run down the rat hole chasing sharpness - google up Cliff Stamp.
 
#16 ·
Here is all you need to know about quickly putting a razor-sharp edge on your knives in a way that preserves your blades for the longest time possible. I got one of the original Warthogs 20 years ago and have been glad ever since. But be careful! When I say "razor-sharp" that is exactly what I mean.

 
#17 · (Edited)
I just recently started using MDF wheels and polishing compound to sharpen everything.
Fastest and easiest way to maintain an edge on a blade.
I run three 3 inch diameter wheels in an electric hand drill.
Each disk has a different grade of compound on it.
Black, which is equivalent to very fine emery cloth.
Yellow, which is a hard metal polish.
White, for a mirror finish.
Quick, effective, shaving edge in about 60 seconds.

3 inch hole saw and a piece of scrap 3/4 inch MDF cuts the disks.



3 inch 1/4-20 machine screw, washers and nylok for spindles to fit the drill chuck.
Spin the disk at medium speed and 100 grit sandpaper smooths out the hole saw kerfs.
Apply compound to the edge of the disk and ready to go.
I clamp the hand drill to the end of the work bench, top of the disk rotates away from me.
Edge of blade away from me and run along the rotating disk/compound.
Think of it as a never-ending strop. Black compound for my axe, hatchet, machetes.
Yellow for chisels, hand planes, draw knife. White compound for knives.



Leaves a polished convex edge, just like extended stropping.

The video that changed the way I maintain my edges...

 
#22 ·
I have looked at the Wicked Edge but good grief! $1,500?

I got the Edge Pro and I'm glad I did, though it does require more dexterity and coordination with your off hand, compared to the Wicked Edge. I like being able to quickly and easily draw the blade back when working out near the tip, to keep the angle perfect. You can't do that with a Wicked Edge.

BUT, it is work to keep the blade flat on its table, and some people will not be good at it, or will not like having to work at it. They will like the Wicked Edge.
 
#23 ·
$1500?? The one that I looked at was around $700. But that is expensive! I have not used any of them. I was just going by what I saw of them in the adds and a couple of Youtube videos.
I always sharpened my knives by hand on my stones before I bought my Ken Onion Work Sharp system. I have a Hall's Pro Edge Wet Hone system that I bought probably around 30 years ago. I cannot find a photo of it on the internet anywhere.
It has 3 stones arranged on a plastic rod holder in a triangular fashion that fits in a two piece plastic case. You fill the bottom case halfway with oil so that every time you change the stone that is facing up, the other two are partially in the oil. The case has cutouts on the long sides that the ends of the stone holder fit into to keep the stone that is facing up held in place to be used.
The stones are 2 3/8" X 11 1/8". A course, medium, and fine grit stone. When you are finished using it, you just fit the top piece onto the bottom piece and put it away so that it won't turn over and spill the oil out.
That is what I have been using for the last 30 years or so, and it works very well. But it takes a lot more time which means more pain for my bad back.
 
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