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custom br stock question

1K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  rokehe 
#1 ·
I've been admiring Mr. Hipshot's collection of masterpieces and decided to give it a go. The project starts with a birch ruger target stock. I happened to have a few extra mahogany boards laying around so I'm using them for this attempt. I've mocked up the fore end to finish at 3.25"wide with the bottom running parallel to the barrel. The question is regarding the butt. How do you experienced stock builders determine how much lower from the fore end to make the bottom of the butt. I understand that the two need to be as close to parallel with each other as I can make them. Thanks for some guidance on this.
 
#2 ·
Just me, but on the B&C Anschutz Target Stock it's about .5, and on the one I am making now, for John I am also using .5. That is from the top rail to the top of the comb, which is parallel to the top rail, and centered on the action. But I have measured anywhere from .3125 and up to .6 or so. Now if you are looking for a cheek weld than it is whatever fits you best. Otherwise it doesn't really matter, as long as the comb isn't in the way of getting a good scope / sight picture. Good luck!
 
#3 ·
rokehe, I'll share the dimensions that I used. To answer your question directly, the bottom of the buttstock is 3-1/2" below the forearm, i.e., bottom of the stock at the trigger guard/magazine well.

But that's not how I actually locate the line of the bottom of the buttstock. I draw a reference line level with the top of the stock, i.e., the line of the bore, measure down 1/2" to establish the top of the comb, and 5" to establish the bottom of the buttstock. This makes the buttstock 4-1/2" tall. I leave a flat on the bottom of the buttstock that is 1/2" wide to assist in riding the bag.

I have no idea if there any hard and fast rules for these dimensions, but this is what has worked for me. HTH
 
#4 ·
Good question Rokehe,

I made mine a little too tall, I think, especially considering the uphill shooting angle on my range. The difficulty is that once it's glued in place it's very difficult to recut and still keep parallel to the bore. I don't have a mill with a cross-slide vise to get that done precisely. Still trying to figure out a way to cut it down a bit without screwing everything up. (picture head-scratching)
Not sure if you've followed my build thread in the stocks section. No recent posts because of, well, the head-scratching.
After looking at my build mockup early on, and thinking it 'looked' good aesthetically I went ahead and glued it before really trying to shoot it. Now, it feels a little too tall.
Then I start reading Blacknboostins' thread here about bench tips and techniques and the wealth of information therein. I'm worrying about the spokes on the wheels of my buggy while the F1 cars are going by! LOL
Anyway, what an amazing and fun way to do a 'build' project without getting into the inletting.
Based on my limited experience in this, use screws, tape and whatnot to get it to shoot and feel right as best you can before you commit. I knew that and still got anxious and made the early jump. :bonk:
Here's a pic of mine:
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I carved a small thumbrest recently and shot a bit with it, but the mosquitoes on my range kept trying to carry me away, so no great cards to post.

BTW, I never thought about actual dimensions on this, just used a Boyd's Tacticool as a sort of pattern while looking at several images of McMillan and B&C target type stocks. I'd like to see some pics of what you're doing with this.

Uncle Philo
 
#8 ·
So this morning, I was able to get the forearm attached and roughly shaped. With the bottom true as I could get it with the bore, I turned the stock onto the top and clamped the piece to my bench. I made a jig for my router and started removing the bottom of the butt until I had a nice , flat, and parallel bottom. Turning it over again, I did the same to the top of the butt. Now I have both top and bottom square and ready to start making the new comb and bottom pieces. Sorry, photobucket is giving me a fit so no pics unless someone can post for me.
 
#10 ·
update

I made up the block that will eventually be shaped into the fore arm. Clamped it to the stock and shimmed it to be flush with the factory barrel channel. This gets the bottom also parallel.


With it still unglued, I marked it up and did a few passes through the table saw.


 
#11 ·
With the fore arm attached, I clamped the stock to my bench. Made a jig for my router and started removing wood from the butt.


Turned it over and did the same to the other side.


Following Mr Hipshots suggestions, I made up some wood blocks to start rebuilding the butt. These were glued on and rough shaped with a belt sander and some files. Heres where it is now.


 
#17 ·
I started by re establishing the centerlines.



Then started to grind off and shape the butt to be closer to the same on each side.



That's a little more like I want it. Then I worked on the grip area.





These shots show the pieces I used to make the new butt. No more time today. Next step is to point up the bondo and get it primed. I plan to shoot it a few times to decide what tweaks it needs. My first impression is that the grip could have been forward a bit. I looked at some of Hipshots photos and his are just rear of the trigger guard and more of a right angle to the bottom of the stock. I think Im going to live with it this time as is.
 
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