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Old 10-26-2017, 07:34 PM
US Army Veteran

Join Date: 
Feb 2005
Indian Springs, AL
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The hammer hook sits right up top with the hammer let forward. Doesn't get much easier than that. Have a look at it....smooth, rough, could be polished, take a very, very careful look at fitment against the sear and the angle of the hook. A good photo from the side, blown up later is very useful I find. I can even pull lines across the edges and then put a protractor on it. Exact angle. Redneck engineering.

Then there is the sear. What holds it in? On the Smith....one little pin...easy to remove, if there is any spring pressure...it isn't much. Same questions....angle, smooth, polished and then you get into the amount of movement needed to disengage the two parts. This can go a long way toward removing any creep if there is any.

A large baggie makes it impossible to for parts to escape. Look things over very carefully before you take them apart, carefully photo them, how they fit. If still nervous, take something partially apart, put it back together, take it apart a little more. Most of these things aren't too tricky if you pay attention to what you are doing. It might not be necessary to disassemble the entire pistol....some things there is no further improvements that can be made. Some pistols like a Ruger LCP simply stretch a coil spring. That is the trigger pull....you could put a weaker spring in and have misfires due to too light a hammer hit. Since this is a plinker I don't mind working on the trigger pull. Self defense pistols benefit from a bit more pull in my opinion. Sometimes it is necessary to handle them in a bit of a hurry and you don't want to 2 lb trigger...at least I don't..
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