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Marlin 60 & 795 Trigger Work...

116K views 88 replies 48 participants last post by  GuitarmanNick 
#1 · (Edited)
Wanted to add a disclaimer.

Note: First, any work performed on your rifle is at your own risk, I'm posting this as a guide to what has worked on mine. Your results may vary depending on the condition of other parts (hammer, springs etc.). Any work performed on your rifle will of course void the warranty as well. You should also be aware that any modifications to the sear and/or hammer can result in an unsafe condition.

I decided to put all the pictures and instructions of my trigger work in one place.

Using a crude, weights & hook style pull gauge, the trigger pull on my 60 was over 7-lbs even after a few thousand rounds fired, it also had pre-travel, a little sear creep and some over-travel. Not the worst trigger ever but after shooting my other rifles and handguns with triggers 4-lbs or less it was time for a change.

I tried adjusting/bending the springs, (sear, trigger & disconnector) and the results were okay but the rifle was unreliable, especially after 100-150 rounds. So I replaced all the springs and looked towards the sear and hammer.

Before you get started, I suggest buying a new sear if you decide to try this method, you can use it as a guide to gauge your work and it will be good insurance if you damage the original sear. Same thing goes for the hammer if you make any changes to it other than just polishing.

In photo #1 you'll see a toolmaker's vise with a Marlin 60/795 sear clamped in and the ultra-fine triangle shaped stone on the sear surface using the left edge of the vise as a guide. I put a piece of clear packing tape on the vise where the stone is riding to keep the stone from grinding on the vice. This stone can be used to polish the hammer hook on the hammer.

When clamping the sear, you want to keep the factory sear angle flat, level and parallel with the top surface of the vise. The end result we be a new sear angle that mates to the hammer cleanly.

The height of the sear in the vise will change the angle of your work, as you raise the sear in the vise (yellow arrow) your trigger will get lighter because you're reducing the angle of hammer engagement. Be careful, if you raise the sear too high the hammer hooks will not hold. The rifle may become full-auto if the hammer fails to lock.

#1


Photo #2 shows me taking a height measurement of .305" with the depth gauge on a set of Brown & Sharpe 6" dial calipers. The calipers you see in the background are some 4" china knock-offs, they work if I keep them adjusted, but the Brown & Sharpe are much nicer.

#2


Photo #3 shows the direction (red arrow) I used to cut the sear, the only reason I chose this direction was because of the narrow stone. It was all I had in fine or ultra fine. If you have a stone wider than the sear surface you can cut in the direction of the yellow arrows.

#3


Photo #4-A is a crude drawing of what the sear looked like before (left) and after (center). You do not have to cut a new angle on the entire sear surface area, the hammer hook is not deep enough to use the whole surface. Cutting just half was more than enough on my rifle. Photo's 4-B through 4-D are updated pics of a freshly worked sear.

The far right image shows where the face of the sear was reduced with the same stone. This is only recommended if you have excessive sear creep, Marlin uses less than a third of the sear surface (photos #5 yellow arrow, & #6) to start with and if you remove too much the sear is worthless. All I removed was about .005" from this area.

#4-A


#4-B


#4-C


#4-D


In pictures #5 and 6 you can see the sear and hammer are fully engaged, it looks like only about 25% of the sear surface is catching the hammer hook.

#5


#6


Image #7 is another crude drawing, this is the hammer profile.

There wasn't much to do with the hammer, polishing the sear engagement surface was about it. You can reduce sear creep by stoning the nose if it's needed, but work slowly, about .002-.003" then test fire. If you remove too much the hammer will not lock.

Do not remove any metal from the area below the hammer hook, if you do this will increase the amount of sear creep.

#7


The picture below shows the results of the trigger pull gauge after the work was finished. It took four sessions with the stone and test firing at the range to achieve the sub 3-lb trigger pull.

Using the tools above your first attempt should give you a trigger pull just over 4-lbs, that's what mine was. I just raised the sear a bit, worked it again, then test fired until I got the 2-lb 10-oz trigger pull seen below. Just work slowly and test fire the rifle each time you change the sear.

Unfortunately I didn't have the trigger pull gauge before the sear work, so I don't have a before trigger pull image. I'll order a new sear and hammer soon to install and get a factory, unmodified reading posted later.



Currently my Model 60 has a DIP target trigger, the new angle on the sear, the hammer and sear matting surfaces are polished with 1200 grit sand paper and I shaved about .005" off the face of the sear. (see pic #4 far right, red image) The springs are less than 6 months old, most are factory replacements with the exception of the J&P hammer and recoil spring kit.

The result is a trigger that's smooth, breaks clean just under 2-lbs 10-oz and has zero pre-travel thanks to the set screw in the DIP trigger. The over-travel was never much of an issue with me, but if you would like to reduce yours the DIP trigger guards are drilled and tapped for a trigger stop screw or you can drill and tap you factory trigger guard.

Tool list used for the sear work detailed above, plus the tools needed to break down the action:

Norton ultra-fine triangle shaped stone (any fine or ultra-fine stone will work)
Set of dial caliper, 4" or 6" is fine
Lyman trigger pull gauge, 0-12-lbs part #7832248
One 2" tool makers vise, can be purchased from e-Bay or Shars. (china knock-off, but works)





 
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#68 ·
Can anyone tell me the correct size e-clip/c-clip that is used on the rear 3 pins in the Marlin 795 sear -hammer assembly? I know I can get one from Midway but I have a hardware store locally that carries them. I just don't have the rifle apart right now to measure one and need a clip and some spares.
 
#72 ·
Recently received and installed a MCARBO trigger spring kit in my friend Jill's Marlin M60. The reduction in trigger weight has made a huge difference to the effectiveness of this excellent semi-auto .22LR.
MCARBO's customer service was outstanding, in fact the best CS I've ever experienced with an online seller.
This is a very nice upgrade at a very good price.

Jill and hare with her M60 fitted with a MCARBO trigger spring kit installed.
 
#73 ·
Thanks for all the contributors on this thread. I'm a total gun newb, but mechanically inclined.
I just got my first gun, a Marlin 795, and did most of these mods already.

I don't have a proper trigger pull gauge, but did the bucket with water trick to get a rough idea....

Initial, brand new from the box: 4321g = 9.53 lbs

My first mod was to replace the trigger spring with a floppy disk spring.

Revised pull: 3588g = 7.91 lbs

I couldn't believe I got a 1.6 lbs reduction from that one spring!

I did all the other mods (so far) in a single sitting, so I didn't get numbers from each stage.

Mods done in second sitting:
- Polish everything!
(That was time consuming, and I could probably get some parts finished even better than they are)
- small bend to sear spring
- removed 1/2 coil on the hammer spring​

Current Pull: 1763g = 3.89 lbs

Total REDUCTION: 2558g = 5.64 lbs!

I didn't mess with the sear at all, and only polished up the hammer surfaces. I don't want to get into that until after I've had a chance to break the thing in, so I don't over do it.

Less than 4 lbs is decent for a starting point, isn't it? :)

I picked up a Simmons Mag 22, 3-9x32 scope pretty cheap, and am just waiting on some rings to get it mounted.

Now I just have to get out to a range. :D

Thanks again to everyone here
 
#76 ·
A friend gave me a Marlin model 60 from 1971, nice rifle comes real easy feels good.
Did the mod, it was around just under 5 lbs. Honed and polished all the parts as showed in this post :t, works like a charm two stage and then brakes clean at 3 lbs, don't mind the over travel l can put in an over travel screw in the trigger guard.
But first want to shot it as it is now at the range.
 
#77 ·
I have a newbie question.

I just bought a Marlin Model 60 and have been
using google to find a solution to the tough trigger.
Is there any aftermarket trigger pack/options for
the 60 like the KIDD Trigger packs for the Ruger 10/22?

I have a Ruger 10/22 and bought and installed the KIDD
trigger pack, and it worked wonderfully for my 10/22.

I was hoping for something similar for the Model 60.

Would it just be better, instead, to take the 60 to my gunsmith
to work on it?
 
#80 · (Edited)
I'm a big Arrow Dodger fan.

I have an admission to make:
I'm usually one of those "go out and shoot ....and then come home and clean" nuts.

After I got my KAT with the DIP trigger guard back from Arrow Dodger and put the 60 back together,
I went out and shot. I already posted this, but it was like a completely different rifle.

After the 10-22 with a huge bunch of Kidd parts, including a 8oz/8oz trigger group, I didn't think there
could be anything close to match it.

The Model 60 was already great. Then, with AD's KAT, I was astounded at the trigger...and how that had
an effect on the rest of the rifle......and of the overall shooting experience.

Point is, though. I have to admit that time got away from me and I put the rifle in its case without cleaning it.
I went out and shot again the end of last week.

Today, I cleaned the 60. While cleaning, I took a first post-shooting look look at the trigger and the trigger
group. What a thing of beauty.

I have to say another "big thanks" to Arrow Dodger. Hummmm...Maybe not. Inspired, I'm now looking at
$ome new gl***** for the Model 60.

:eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
#82 ·
I put the MCARBO spring kit in my Model 60 yesterday.

By itself the MCARBO kit yeilds only a little improvement. Not enough if you start with a heavy trigger.

While I had my trigger Assembly apart I polished the hammer with 1500 grit paper. Be careful to look at the photos in the stickies to see where you want to polish the hammer and sear.

I used a flat Arkansas sharpening stone to make a new contacting surface on the sear. Follow the photos in the sticky to see the angle you want to make. Then polish the contacting portion of the sear until it is shiny smooth.

This was much easier than I thought it would be, as long as you go slow and use the finest grit paper and stone, it would be hard to overdo it and ruin your sear.

I chose to NOT use a metal file because I probably would have taken off too much.

Put it back together and shot it yesterday. Greatly improved trigger pull. Wanted to hunt with it today, but it rained. Will measure trigger pull and get back to ya'll.

This fix is only for those who don't want Arrowdodger's KAT trigger. If you want the lightest possible safe reliable trigger pull; KAT is the way to go. If you want a smoother easier squirrel hunter's pull--Arkansas stone that sear.
 
#83 · (Edited)
Frostburg: If you don't want to do a bunch of work yourself, I recommend Arrowdodger's KAT trigger. Will drop your trigger pull to somewhere around 14-16 Ounces.

He does all the work for you.

Or, you can follow my Cletus Bubba Smith School of Gunsmithing method and use Arkansas stone and MCARBO springs to obtain a trigger pull of less than 3 lbs. How much less than 3 lbs, I don't know because Bubba won't let us use anything as a trigger gauge other than what we have around the house. And my wife doesn't have any hand weights less than 3 pounds...but the trigger pulls on my Model 60 now so I know I am below 3 lbs. I won't know if it is "Squirrel-worthy" until I kill a few with it. Squirrels are the true measure of all things in life.

You get a great feeling of satisfaction following Bubba's methods. But you get a 1 lb trigger if you go with Arrowdodger's KAT trigger.

I can't say which is better; 'do-it-yerself' or have it done professionally. I report, you decide.
 
#86 ·
Frostburg: If you don't want to do a bunch of work yourself, I recommend Arrowdodger's KAT trigger. Will drop your trigger pull to somewhere around 14-16 Ounces.

He does all the work for you.

Or, you can follow my Cletus Bubba Smith School of Gunsmithing method and use Arkansas stone and MCARBO springs to obtain a trigger pull of less than 3 lbs. How much less than 3 lbs, I don't know because Bubba won't let us use anything as a trigger gauge other than what we have around the house. And my wife doesn't have any hand weights less than 3 pounds...but the trigger pulls on my Model 60 now so I know I am below 3 lbs. I won't know if it is "Squirrel-worthy" until I kill a few with it. Squirrels are the true measure of all things in life.

You get a great feeling of satisfaction following Bubba's methods. But you get a 1 lb trigger if you go with Arrowdodger's KAT trigger.

I can't say which is better; 'do-it-yerself' or have it done professionally. I report, you decide.
How do I contact Arrowdodger?
 
#84 ·
What a great and helpful thread! I am building three Marlin 795's for LTR's and I did the trigger work on them. Two of them got the spring softening mods, floppy disc trigger spring and stoned the sears. Those two came out to 1-1/4 & 1-1/2 lb pull.

I only had two floppy discs so one didn't get the trigger spring and that one came out to 2-1/2 lb pull. I didn't soften the sear spring on this one as much as the others so I attribute the higher pull weight to those two things.
 
#89 ·
Since this is my first post in this forum, I should begin by saying that I try not to spend too much on triggers when I can usually get good results with a little time and effort using the original parts.
To improve the horrible trigger in my 795, I installed a McCarbo spring kit and polished the hammer and sear but would not recommend changing the engagement angles! They are cut that way for a reason!
To take care of the pre-travel, I drilled a hole to the left of center(to insure contact with the disconnector) in the trigger and tapped it for a #6-32 setscrew. The ideal length is about 3/8". After getting it adjusted, I put some blue Loctite on the threads and checked for proper function. You must make sure that the trigger resets after firing. If it does not, back the screw out 1/8 turn and try again.
My trigger pull is now 3.5 pounds and very smooth. There is almost no pre-travel and it has a consistent, clean break. I am quite pleased with this overall result.
The Marlin 795 safety does not block the sear. It only blocks the trigger.
If you have modified your sear and created a severely negative engagement as described in the trigger job in this thread, the only thing between you and an accidental discharge is the sear spring. Dropping the gun with a round in the chamber and the safety on, can still result in an AD!
As with all modifications, doing this yourself will void your warranty, but it is worth it IMO.
 
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