Ok, new project time. Comments and questions are welcome. I'm doing most of this for the first or second time and am totally open to any tips or suggestions.
TLDR - Here's what it looks like now
While knocking around the woods and range with a previous Coosa/carbon fiber stock for a few years, I thought of several aspects of a new version. The first version still fits well, but there was no easy way to alter the grip. But I have to say, the carbon fiber / Coosa board construction has held up very well- no separations, cracks or failures. For the next version, I definitely wanted less Coosa and more carbon fiber that would take advantage of hollow core areas to maintain strength and be lighter. New version will be a 'chassis' style design with interchangeable grip, butt and comb fixtures. Besides, it was time to scratch that itch to tinker with a new project.
Here is a shot of the previous version
So here are the materials to be used.
Another part of the project is to use common, fairly inexpensive tools. Since this is a one-off item, the method I employed was simple vacuum bagging of CF over various core materials - Coosa, foam and CF tubing. This allows for changes and repair of the original item without any complex retooling. The next level in CF fabrication involves molds, bladders and heat curing which is a bit more involved than needed for this project.
The way I looked at it - you can make something that is Quick, Functional, Cheap... Now pick any two. I went with Functional and Cheap. The advantage of this being a long term project is that I could work on a bit at a time. It works for me to chip away at it an hour here, a few hours there. That best fits my schedule and it works much better when trying new techniques. Much of this build was a 'learn it as you do it' process. I actually saved time in the long run by slowing down and considering various methods of fabrication.
Since I don't have access to a milling machine, CAD set up or expensive stock making gear, this was going to be a low tech process. Additionally, when it comes to working carbon fiber on a tight budget, the remote control model making community have really got their act together. Take the need for a pump unit for vacuum bagging. Off the shelf, they run into the hundreds. But a fridge pump makes for a great low volume vacuum rig. Made mine with a few extra parts and it has been running fine for over five years.
Another thing that occurred to me is that carbon fiber can be thought of as a modern day equivalent of folded steel in feudal Japan. A bit of knowledge with the right materials and you can fabricate a quite effective tool with some very unique qualities. And you can make it in most any form you like. Cool thing is that the components are not as out-of-reach as you might think.
So for this build, I broke the stock down into separate components that can be made (and remade) to suit specific desires. The main 'chassis' is comprised of three sections - hexagonal barrel shroud, main body and rear assembly. Add to this a grip, comb & butt piece and you have yourself a pretty cool stock.
A couple of materials make this project come together, so to speak. Where the action screws and bedding compound are mounted, there needs to be a core material that is light, easily cut & sanded and readily bonds with epoxy. Wood will work, but I really like Coosa board since with a .22LR, recoil is not an issue. A great supplier is BoatOutfitters.com as they sell a 1/3 sheet. The hex tube for the shroud is readily available from Rock West Composites. I tried making my own off of an aluminum hex mandrel, but found it is not worth the trouble.
Cutting CF - really have to use diamond tools. Cheap Dremel sets are available on line. A really good round cut off wheel is the one from Dremel - lasts a long time, the holes get rid of the waste and the spring loaded clip gives it a bit of flex. Make sure you have good ventilation and use a fine filtered vacuum and mask. Stuff is not good to breath!
Chassis Rear Assembly - Here is a great place to save some coin. Find a hockey player and get a broken hockey stick from them. Most sticks are now either all carbon fiber or a CF/Fiberglass blend. Buddy of mine is a team captain and gave me a few. You have to heat up the shaft and scrape off the tacky coating, but they make a great core for the back section. I went with a simple square shape with an angled side for my support hand with shooting prone.
To hold the joints in place, I used sections of Coosa as inserts and inserted sections as 'hard points' to mount threaded sockets and sling swivel studs. Once epoxied in place, they are really solid. You do have to be aware of Ferris metal in direct contact with CF oxidizing due to galvanic action. Just make sure there is resin separating the two.
To line everything up, I took a section of ¾" plywood, some drywall screws and small sections of plastic pipe to make a jig board to hold everything flat, level and in place. This worked well to fine tune the corner cuts by pulling sand paper between the two tube sections. It also held everything in place to epoxy it all together.
I cut the angle to match my hand position so it fits comfortably in the prone position. Cool thing about making it from scratch is you can customize any little aspect you like.
More to follow…
TLDR - Here's what it looks like now
While knocking around the woods and range with a previous Coosa/carbon fiber stock for a few years, I thought of several aspects of a new version. The first version still fits well, but there was no easy way to alter the grip. But I have to say, the carbon fiber / Coosa board construction has held up very well- no separations, cracks or failures. For the next version, I definitely wanted less Coosa and more carbon fiber that would take advantage of hollow core areas to maintain strength and be lighter. New version will be a 'chassis' style design with interchangeable grip, butt and comb fixtures. Besides, it was time to scratch that itch to tinker with a new project.
Here is a shot of the previous version
So here are the materials to be used.
Another part of the project is to use common, fairly inexpensive tools. Since this is a one-off item, the method I employed was simple vacuum bagging of CF over various core materials - Coosa, foam and CF tubing. This allows for changes and repair of the original item without any complex retooling. The next level in CF fabrication involves molds, bladders and heat curing which is a bit more involved than needed for this project.
The way I looked at it - you can make something that is Quick, Functional, Cheap... Now pick any two. I went with Functional and Cheap. The advantage of this being a long term project is that I could work on a bit at a time. It works for me to chip away at it an hour here, a few hours there. That best fits my schedule and it works much better when trying new techniques. Much of this build was a 'learn it as you do it' process. I actually saved time in the long run by slowing down and considering various methods of fabrication.
Since I don't have access to a milling machine, CAD set up or expensive stock making gear, this was going to be a low tech process. Additionally, when it comes to working carbon fiber on a tight budget, the remote control model making community have really got their act together. Take the need for a pump unit for vacuum bagging. Off the shelf, they run into the hundreds. But a fridge pump makes for a great low volume vacuum rig. Made mine with a few extra parts and it has been running fine for over five years.
Another thing that occurred to me is that carbon fiber can be thought of as a modern day equivalent of folded steel in feudal Japan. A bit of knowledge with the right materials and you can fabricate a quite effective tool with some very unique qualities. And you can make it in most any form you like. Cool thing is that the components are not as out-of-reach as you might think.
So for this build, I broke the stock down into separate components that can be made (and remade) to suit specific desires. The main 'chassis' is comprised of three sections - hexagonal barrel shroud, main body and rear assembly. Add to this a grip, comb & butt piece and you have yourself a pretty cool stock.
A couple of materials make this project come together, so to speak. Where the action screws and bedding compound are mounted, there needs to be a core material that is light, easily cut & sanded and readily bonds with epoxy. Wood will work, but I really like Coosa board since with a .22LR, recoil is not an issue. A great supplier is BoatOutfitters.com as they sell a 1/3 sheet. The hex tube for the shroud is readily available from Rock West Composites. I tried making my own off of an aluminum hex mandrel, but found it is not worth the trouble.
Cutting CF - really have to use diamond tools. Cheap Dremel sets are available on line. A really good round cut off wheel is the one from Dremel - lasts a long time, the holes get rid of the waste and the spring loaded clip gives it a bit of flex. Make sure you have good ventilation and use a fine filtered vacuum and mask. Stuff is not good to breath!
Chassis Rear Assembly - Here is a great place to save some coin. Find a hockey player and get a broken hockey stick from them. Most sticks are now either all carbon fiber or a CF/Fiberglass blend. Buddy of mine is a team captain and gave me a few. You have to heat up the shaft and scrape off the tacky coating, but they make a great core for the back section. I went with a simple square shape with an angled side for my support hand with shooting prone.
To hold the joints in place, I used sections of Coosa as inserts and inserted sections as 'hard points' to mount threaded sockets and sling swivel studs. Once epoxied in place, they are really solid. You do have to be aware of Ferris metal in direct contact with CF oxidizing due to galvanic action. Just make sure there is resin separating the two.
To line everything up, I took a section of ¾" plywood, some drywall screws and small sections of plastic pipe to make a jig board to hold everything flat, level and in place. This worked well to fine tune the corner cuts by pulling sand paper between the two tube sections. It also held everything in place to epoxy it all together.
I cut the angle to match my hand position so it fits comfortably in the prone position. Cool thing about making it from scratch is you can customize any little aspect you like.
More to follow…