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-   -   Best bore solvent (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1123538)

SDBigDog1955 06-03-2018 01:49 PM

mineral spirit's AKA = paint thinner :bthumb:

Winnut 06-03-2018 05:05 PM

60+ years using Hoppes 9 solvent...then Rem Oil or the like.
All my guns, .22 thru 45-70 are still better shooters than I am.

flylo 06-03-2018 05:30 PM

I don't reccomend this to anyone else but mercury works better than anything. I just bough a NOS Outers 2 & 3 to try.

NevRimfire 06-03-2018 06:18 PM

Mad Hatters...mercury NG.

Al the Infidel 06-03-2018 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmd1950 (Post 11004162)
Awe I never banned you, you went out on points. :D

:D

While leading certainly is a problem, if, one has it....its not really all that common. Folks flock to RFC seeking cures for their problems a lot more than to sing praises IME, CZ zealots excluded of course, hence one reading about dreaded leading. Carbon rings are a lot more common IMO. Regular cleaning done correctly with a cleaner such as Hoppes #9 and a bronze brush keep carbon rings and leading at bay. Shooting a few rounds to re-lube the bore with preferred ammo after cleaning is a small price to pay to keep a 22 shooting to the best of it's ability. JMO YMMV ETC

NevRimfire 06-03-2018 08:04 PM

Good points

Lance Boyle 06-11-2018 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big-Dummy (Post 11003130)
If you've already got leading, it's hard to beat Kroil and a bronze brush. I've had lead come out in long strings on centerfire revolver barrels after running a Kroil soaked patch down the bore and letting it sit for a while. Likewise, a copper fouled Glock barrel placed in a clear plastic cylinder just slightly larger than the barrel and filled with Kroil had flakes of copper in the bottom after an hour. For light or no metal fouling, my usual bore cleaner is M-Pro7. Just don't scrub with a bronze brush while using it or you will be scrubbing all night wondering why your patches keep coming out black. The M-Pro7 attacks the copper in the bronze brush just like it does fouling in your barrel. The more you use it, the shorter time the cleaning takes. Eventually you will get to the point that a couple cycles of one wet patch, one dry patch is all it takes to get the bore clean. Their LPX oil is also excellent, but for a long time I was a Kroil and Ballistol guy. Nothing wrong with that. I still use Ballistol mixed in boiling water to clean my TC Hawken. I start with boiling water and Windex, then switch to boiling water and Ballistol. I just dump it in an old coffee can and pump it through the bore with a shotgun rod and tight patch. After a couple changes of Windex/water solution I switch to the Ballistol/water solution. When done, I run a dry patch down the barrel, then one with a little pure Ballistol on it. The residual heat from the boiling water dries any remaining water leaving only a protective coat of Ballistol. It used to be you could get quart cans of a BreakFree Bore Cleaner, but I have not seen it for a while. It was really good also. From the smell it had Stoddard Solvent and Acetone in it, probably among other things. I've got a home-brew solution out in the garage made of 25% CLP, 70% Stoddard Solvent, and 5% Acetone that I use for cleaning shotgun barrels. It works great for scrubbing out wad fouling, but I would not use it on anything where you could not remove the forend from the barrel like some fine O/U doubles like the Superposed, as the Acetone will play H E double toothpicks with the finish.

Edís red works very quickly on wads plastics in a bore. When I thought I had a fairly clean bore with Hoppes and the cleaned with edís I had long strings of plastic coming out on my brush. These were clay buster AA wad copies. Regular AA wads were much cleaner.

NevRimfire 06-11-2018 09:46 PM

I keep coming back to Hoppes 9, old habits die hard, but Hoppes 9 is still a really good bore solvent.

Try Wipe Out Patch On for centerfire...youíll be amazed.

hickorynut 06-12-2018 10:23 AM

My preferred solvent is 2 parts Hoppes benchrest,, 1 part Kroil, 1 part Marvel mystery oil. I've used it for many years, it works for me whether I'm cleaning a 629 [email protected] .44 Mag or a .17HM2
My experience has been that different .22s require different cleaning, some shoot "clean" best, some shoot best after a hundred or so rounds, some only need a few fouling shots.

Let your rifle tell you what it likes

C.C. 06-12-2018 07:54 PM

[QUOTE=SDBigDog1955;11006786]mineral spirit's AKA = paint thinner :bthumb:/QUOTE]

Also AKA Stoddard Solvent! :bthumb:

NevRimfire 06-12-2018 08:08 PM

Stoddard Solvent aka mineral spirits does not contain ammonium hydroxide which is the active copper fouling solvent found in Hoppes 9. The ammonium content is 5% or less which, combined by other ingredients, is not significant enough to etch or corrode steel (be careful with nickel plating though)

Iíve used Mineral Spirits in the past, moons ago in a pinch. I rather stick with lubes and solvents made specifically for firearms, but thatís just me.

Big-Dummy 06-13-2018 08:43 AM

Firearms applications are not particularly challenging with regard to metal and carbon fouling. You either need something that will dissolve them, or that has low enough surface tension to creep under them for cleaning. Any lube that won't dry out or gum up will work. Friction loads are pretty low in firearms. It is nice to get caught up in the hype of "mine is slipperier" "or mine cleans better." I know I do. My current favorite cleaner is M-Pro7, although my nose thinks it might just be diluted Windex. Their LPX oil smell kind of reminds me of original formulation CLP. I went on a Grant Cunningham kick for a while and have a mostly unused gallon jug of FMO-350-AW in the basement. Then there was my SuperLube phase, and my Tetra Lube phase. And my Ballistol and Kroil phase... I still use all of them from time to time except the Tetra Lube. That stuff is toxic.

C.C. 06-14-2018 01:11 PM

Here we go again!
 
I am trying t limit the chemicals in my shooting room, and have some of the "safer" concoctions on hand. The rest will go to the hazmat site. Looking through what I have, I was surprised at the collection.

It appears that Rimfire Blend, although expen$ive, has a great following. I presently have CLP, Hoppe's newer Synthetic, Kroil, M-Pro 7 (can't remember when I got that one!) and Patch Out. I swear, they must see me coming!:o

I clean after each shooting session, thereby probably ruining:eek: the "seasoning" of my bore, never letting my rifles reach their accuracy potential.(?) With my big bore rifle, I noticed that after thoroughly cleaning with Wipe-out, it took maybe 10 rounds for accuracy to reestablish.

Me? Belt/Suspenders/Worry Wart! YUP!:D

I didn't even dream of the dreaded "carbon ring" before I joined the forum.:ohh: Is there one solution that will take care of the ring", and be a passable cleaner of the "other materials" that festoon our bores after a shoot?

Or..is it necessary to purchase one of the "Carbon Killer" solutions, like Cevy or Mercury carbon remover?

Will it remove the carbon ring to just wet the bore with any of the solutions, let sit for a while..up to an hour, and then just brush the mess away? I don't believe that any of the mentioned solutions will damage a barrel...or am I wrong, there?

Suggestions will be appreciated.:)

DInghram 06-14-2018 01:20 PM

I don`t know if it`s the best, but I`m in the Hoppes group. I have two main rimfire rifles that get shot with standard velocity ammo. One is a 1712 and the other is a Kidd SG. I use string trimmer line and two at a time patches, they initially fit very tight and visibly remove small flakes of leading. Both of these bores are nice and smooth and I can see for sure that this is working. I`m satisfied anyway.

GreggieBoy 06-14-2018 05:08 PM

I case no one else mentioned it already, I'll say Frog Lube ... just to get someone all lathered up.

Truthfully, I prefer Hoppe's.

Tried and true.

ILIKE1022 06-14-2018 05:47 PM

You mix Kroil 50/50 with any good solvent like Bore-Tech Eliminator, or Hoppe's, and you just can't beat the results. I have done it for years. I use a bronze brush with patches. Barrel stays cleaner longer and it cleans up faster to get white patches.

ILIKE1022 06-14-2018 05:59 PM

I just bought this Suhl 150 Shilen barrel recently from a member here that showed me some groups. I had to jump. I cleaned it with Kroil mixed 50/50 with Hoppe's 9 with patches and a brush. I went and shot this the first time out with gun. I am going to keep cleaning it this way, too. 5 shots 50yds Eley Match 1066fps off #1 machine. 2 photos. Had a guy measure it with On Target measuring program at .023ctc.

http://i.imgur.com/MqCAi7L.png
http://i.imgur.com/NZYjQB8.jpg

supersharp 06-14-2018 07:31 PM

I like many of the Bore Tech solvents. The Eliminator , Carbon Remover and Rimfire blend .Then there is Gun Scrubber which can be a good degreaser. For my centerfire rifles Wipeout with the Accelerator let it soak overnight .For carbon Kroil soaking overnight brush it the next day that's pretty much my Arsenal of cleaners:Blasting_

fidelity 06-14-2018 07:40 PM

Wow, ILIKE1022 ... I like your shooting.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

ILIKE1022 06-14-2018 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fidelity (Post 11059794)
Wow, ILIKE1022 ... I like your shooting.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Thanks. I give the gun and the ammo most of the credit.

NevRimfire 06-15-2018 09:57 PM

Nice shooting

ILIKE1022 06-15-2018 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NevRimfire (Post 11064362)
Nice shooting

Thanks.

bearcatter 06-16-2018 11:42 AM

Hoppe's No. 9 solvent and oil. It's been around over 100 years. There are lots of nice 50, 75, 100 year old guns that have never been touched by anything else.

I use bronze brushes and patches, basically alternating wet patch, brush, dry patch until I get a 99% clean dry patch. I clean after every session.

Vasquez956 06-16-2018 02:24 PM

The Hoppes 9 formula has changed over the years I believe. It is not the same as it was when hoppes 9 was at its peak.

C.C. 06-23-2018 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vasquez956 (Post 11065217)
The Hoppes 9 formula has changed over the years I believe. It is not the same as it was when hoppes 9 was at its peak.

Yes, that was one of my questions... is the "new" Hoppe's synthetic as good as the oooold #9?
I got a pint bottle of the new and improved elixir on sale, for what I thought was a good price. Should I have bought the "old" stuff, or maybe mix the old stuff & new 50-50, and live happily ever after?:bthumb:


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