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-   -   Razor 10/22 Magnum Main Spring tension adjustment Knob (Easy Tuning)) (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1160393)

cncmerman2 05-09-2019 09:43 PM

Razor 10/22 Magnum Main Spring tension adjustment Knob (Easy Tuning))
After buying my Razor 1022 magnum receiver I didn't like the idea of having to cut, stretch, plug, shorten mixn match and fiddle with every possible spring combination to get this thing to cycle correctly. There had to be a better way to adjust this thing. So I took a break from the receiver to reload some 7.62x54R for my PSL, and while looking at the powder adjustment screw on the Hornady powder measure the Idea came to me. A Threaded Adjustment Knob to increase or decrease the spring tension to help with tuning. Here is what I came up with:

(1) 5/16-24 Internal, 7/16-20 External Thread Locking Repair Insert

(1) 5/16-24 fully threaded cap screw

(1) 5/16-24 jam nut

(2) 22 Magnum Main Spring Follower

(1) boltspring

1. plug both ends of the spring with the mainspring followers into receiver
2. Screw in the thread locking repair insert which replaces the original set screw
3 Screw in the 5/16-24 screw with nut into repair insert.

now that it's all set up, use the screw to tighten the tension until the cases start to eject in the desired pattern. you may have to trim the screw once or swap it for a heavier spring to get desired results. Once you get it right, just lock down that nut against the receiver and your gun is set. I think you can ever leave it cocked indefinitely without the worry of losing spring tension since you can adjust it again if needed.


raineydayfishing 12-01-2019 01:03 PM

I fixed my razor by using a tungsten bolt.
Don't waist your time with the steel bolt. You can also tune the tungsten bolt to work with the 17 HMR round. The razor bolt is made of steel. The reason Ruger uses Tungsten on these bolts is because it is heavier than steel by quite a bit. You need this extra mass/weight to slow the action from opening too soon. When it opens too fast the rimfire area is all bulged out and some even blow out the back of the rimfire. When it does this you have a timing issue which they refer to as "tuning" the action. What this means is the action is opening before the pressures drop low enough to safely eject the shell (and it's real loud when they blow out the bottom thru the magazine) so remember to keep your hand away from the magazine. For best results only "tune" your rifle for a single round by a single manufacturer.

Purchase a bolt from Keith Riehl at Quarter Research [email protected] or try 503-784-9839. They only make bolts so often, so you will have to wait until they make another batch. He also travels a lot and it might take a day or two to get a reply. I would ask them for a headspace of .049 the ones I got were .050. Also ask them to use a Power Custom firing pin or NONE AT ALL! https://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...prod25039.aspx The bolts I got from Keith had Razor firing pins in them and they caused me a bunch of issues. The Razor firing pin functions perfect in the Razor bolt, but when you slap it into a factory spec bolt they don't work well at all. The Razor firing pins installed in a factory spec bolt will hit the base of the barrel and dent it and these barrels are not cheap. The firing pin should stop between .010-.020 of being flush with the bolt. Power custom firing pins are also wider and fit into the grove tighter which also helps get you consistent firing pin strikes. Also ask Keith to pin the bolt https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...d.php?t=251029. If you don't do this you will have mis-fire issues and it will drive you crazy trying to figure out the problem. The problem is the Razor charging handle is designed for the Razor bolt and the Razor firing pin, not the factory bolt. The Razor charging handle allows the firing pin to ride too high and not give you consistent firing pin strikes. Lastly the bolt you get from Keith will not be surface hardened. They should be surface hardened before final assembly to improve longevity. Tungsten (although hard and heavy) deforms easy.

I also recommend upgrading your trigger hammer spring and charging handle spring. Toss in a Power Custom 10/22 Extra Power spring kit (https://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...prod25043.aspx) you will need this kit anyhow, so just get it. I don't know the actual spring spec for the magnum, but I know these springs are heavier and will help with tuning.

These fixes cost a lot of money, but if you want a reliable razor that functions properly they are necessary. I almost gave up until I made the connection of why Ruger uses Tungsten on their bolts. You may also find that with these fixes you can run 22 mag without the extra spring. I have to run the extra spring for the 17 HMR. If I don't it recoils so hard that the magazine falls out.

Hope this helps.

cncmerman2 05-22-2020 06:18 PM

Thanks for all the tips
Wow thanks for all info, I'll go ahead and get started back on my build. I have all this extra time on my hands due to Covid19 thing.

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