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-   -   Winchester 63 Bolt Repair/Replacement? (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1177331)

BanjoBen 11-21-2019 10:58 AM

Winchester 63 Bolt Repair/Replacement?
I have a Winchester model 63 with a damaged bolt due to dry firing. I would like to know where I can purchase a replacement bolt or someone who can repair it.

bayliner2052 11-21-2019 02:48 PM


Originally Posted by BanjoBen (Post 11677905)
I have a Winchester model 63 with a damaged bolt due to dry firing. I would like to know where I can purchase a replacement bolt or someone who can repair it.

How exactly is the bolt damaged? Without detailed description and well taken photos, no one can evaluate the problem. Dry fire usually causes damage to the chamber mouth, not the bolt. If you can't post photos please send them to me at [email protected]

joe45c 11-21-2019 07:01 PM


Originally Posted by bayliner2052 (Post 11678077)
How exactly is the bolt damaged? Without detailed description and well taken photos, no one can evaluate the problem. Dry fire usually causes damage to the chamber mouth, not the bolt. If you can't post photos please send them to me at [email protected]

Or also the firing pin can be damaged from dry firing. The bolts on the 63 are built like tanks. Hard to get damage to them. Like bayliner posted please let us know more about the damage.

BanjoBen 11-22-2019 11:26 AM

I apologize for taking so long to get the photo's. I couldn't find a USB cable last night to upload them. I was also having trouble getting my phone to focus on some of the shots so let me know if I need to retake any. Here is a link to the album.

When the firing pin was last replaced it only lasted about 5 shots before breaking again. I haven't seen this rifle in about 20 years and just got it back.


joe45c 11-22-2019 03:22 PM

I think you might have a head space problem. From your pics i don't think your bolt has any damage. But i'm just guessing hopefully someone will be able to give your more help.

2152hq 11-22-2019 10:46 PM

The face of the bolt has been battered in by countless repeated slamming into the face of the bbl. I suspect much of the damage comes when the bolt is allowed to slam shut w/o feeding a round into the chamber.

The face of the breech on the bolt should be smooth straight accross. No countersink for the case head (that is all taken care of in the bbl face)

The battering pushes the metal on the bolt face back and leaves what looks like an impression of the case head in the face of the bolt.
What that case head impression is though is just where the metal has NOT been battered to the rear because there is nothing on the bbl chamber face to push it anywhere. That's the open end of the chamber.
Everything else has been moved rearward,,peened back by the battering.
Even a bit of the metal has moved into the ejector slot of the bolt face.

In the past I have cleaned these up by removing the extractor and spring. Remove the firing pin just because the FP channel may get some debris in it and need cleaning anyway.
Then file the face clean and smooth and polish it.

No need to actually remove every last vestige of the battering imprint but bring it back to re-establish a square face and un-battered/pitted cartridge support. Remove any burrs that have peened up into the ejector or extractor slots.

Now taking the face back a bit will increase the distance the extractor hook itself is positioned from the case rim when the case is chambered. But if you don't over do it, I've never found this to be an issue with functioning afterwards.

The initial chambering takes place with the round skipping into the chamber and being pushed home by the bolt. The extractor mearly snaps over the rim.
Upon firing, a blowback action actually needs no extractor to operate as the fired case is the piston that pushes itself out of the chamber and by that pushes the bolt open and operates the action.
The Beretta 950 22rf pistol has no extractor at all and operates on that principle.

Clean up everything.
Looks like a new firing pin is in order. The broken one was probably a repro that was brittle from the aftermarket mfg. Not uncommon yrs back.
When installed, a new firing pin length should be adj so the point when fully extended as if hit by the hammer does NOT allow the point of the FP to strike the edge of the chamber in the bbl itself.
Coming up .005 shy or so is fine. More than enough crush to the rim to fire the cartridge.
But shy of striking the edge of the bbl chamber itself causing damage and a burr there.

Check that firing pin protrusion simply by pushing the pin full forward and with a straight edge accross the face w/ the bolt in your hand, you can see and detect if the point of the pin is forward of the face of the bolt. Take it back at the point if it is and reshape to a nice small flat face chisel point.
No sharp point that may pierce a case rim.

You won't be creating any headspace problem by cleaning up and squaring up the bolt face. The headspace is determined by the rim recess depth cut already cut in the bbl face when it was chambered at the factory. We're not doing anything to the bbl face.
(That's a separate operation if needed and special tools to remove the bbl w/o damaging anything.)
All that will happen now is that the bolt will close a few .000 forward of where it did before. You won't even notice it.

BanjoBen 11-23-2019 01:27 AM

Thank You
I very much appreciate all the help and advice. Thank you all.

@2152hq Thank you for the detailed information and instructions. I will see what I can do or take it to a smith and let you know how it turns out.

BanjoBen 12-12-2019 09:00 AM

I purchased a firing pin and installed it. Fortunately I also happen to be holding my brothers 63 for him so I pulled the bolt out and started comparing how far the new firing pin in my bolt sticks out compared to my brothers. I noticed that the new pin in mine had a little more play than my brothers. They stick out about the same distance. While I was checking this I put the bolts back in and was looking at clearances. I noticed on my chamber there is a small dimple at what would be the top when assembled and aimed. I am wondering if what is happening is the wallowed out pin hole in the bolt is allowing the firing pin to shift upward when struck by the hammer and hitting the hardened chamber causing it to break. Here is a photo of the chamber showing the dimple.


2152hq 12-13-2019 03:58 PM

That mark/dimple is from the tip of the firing pin hitting the edge of the chamber in dry fire (everytime the rifle is empty at the end of a magazine full and you find out by pulling the trigger and get a 'click').

It's not real bad as some are. MAny rifles have a burr so heavy that a new round has trouble chambering, a fired round trouble extracting.
Even so, the firing pin tip should not touch the chamber edge OR the bbl face,,at all..

There is no need to do so in order for the RF cartridge to fire. The firing pins needs only to crush the rim sufficiently to detonate the priming compound betw the folds of the thin brass. It must not leave a mark on the bbl steel.
The bbl steel is soft btw. No hardness to speak of. It cuts very easily with a hand file. No noticable difference betw it and a bar of cold rolled steel on a .22rf bbl.

The firing pins betw the two rifles being 'about' the same lengths has nothing to do with anything.
The firing pin in YOUR rifle needs to be fitted to YOUR rifle.Simple as that.
When I said the pin should not protrude past the face of the bolt,,that's exactly what it means.
It should NOT be able to reach or touch the bbl face at all.
It should land about .005" shy of touching the bbl face.
That will allow plenty of reach for sure firing of the cartridges, but the firing pin will not do any damage to the bbl face.

The face of the pin should be tapered down to a chisel shape with the actual face of it being flat blunted so as not to pierce the brass.
The Mod63 F/P is not a round or rounded shaped tip as some guns are.

You can carefully push that existing dimple back up out of the chamber area if it has moved itself in that direction.
The remaining dent can be made gone by very careful stoning flat of the breech face itself. It must be done absolutely flat and even,,no cockeyed work just chasing that dent away.
The tiny amt removed will not hurt anything as far as chamber depth, and headspace is measured and already cut in place in the recess in the bolt face itself.

All this is much easier to do obviously with the bbl removed but you can do it w/o doing that. So little matl to be cleaned up.

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