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-   -   CM-2 side Scope mount Homemade (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278447)

STBE Harris 04-26-2009 01:28 AM

CM-2 side Scope mount Homemade
 
I plan on trying something along the lines of my drawing here. If anyone else wants to try please let me know if you get it to work!! Part A is on the left and B is the big piece that would fit over it on the right; epoxed and bolted through drillled and tapped holes on the side of this STBE engineered project. Also extra holes would have to be dilled into top of B to allow access for tightening of the tapered allen screws the would tighten on the CM-2 dovetail to hold the whole thing on they are not shown. Any flatish bases could be used to attach a scope if need be with epoxy to help. Maybe 336 Marlin bases? Or I think a 10/22 would maybe work. You would need pretty simple tools. The stock metal, Drill and tap with a Drill Press, Thread and tap set. Epoxy. some Allen head bolts. Files, Dremel with a couple cut offs and grinders, emory cloth, some odds and ends If anyone sees a problem and or has a better idea that doesnt need a milling machine, lathe, please add looking for all input!!!!! STBE


http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h.../CM-2Mount.jpg[/IMG]

mrmosin 04-26-2009 11:54 AM

Google industrial metal sales. I have brought some aluminum angle from them, quick shipment.

mrmosin 04-26-2009 10:10 PM

A little help. Is "A" square tubing with a slot cut out that slides over the dovetail?

STBE Harris 04-26-2009 11:59 PM

mrmosin yes
 
Yes [A] would have a slot cut out of square tubing with a rail that could be ground or filed to fit the bottom of the dovetail of the CM-2. There is a problem though this rail is in the same vertical plane as the locations required for the top drill and tap holes for the top clamp screws. My drawing is wishfull thinking showing over hang. It would reguire another extension on top of the tubing to allow same vertical plane alignment. That could be bolted and epoxied or welded on. Welding though takes this into another level which I do not have access to. Again this is just in the idea stage and this may not work. If (wish) I had a lathe and or a welder it might make it a lot easier. "If wishes were horses beggers would ride" STBE

Mrmosin I am going to look into Industrial metals. From my question about aluminum elsewhere on our forum it seems that Hardware store stock aluminum is a no go for structural stuff. Digging in an aluminum scrapper's bins might come up with a perfect piece for this project.

STBE Harris 04-27-2009 12:42 AM

Updated drawing
 
[IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h.../CM-2Mount.jpg[/IMG]

mrmosin 04-27-2009 09:22 AM

The angle I have got is 1/4" thick, other sizes available. Why not this idea. Mill and file a slot in the tubing. Instead of set screws from the top, come from the side, that would bear against the flat of the dovetail

STBE Harris 04-27-2009 12:56 PM

MRmosin
 
Are you sayig that you could mill A ( I would have to cut and file with Dremel and flat bas***D files) ((a true attempt at artistry and perserverance for me)) anyway in your idea you would have to fit the mount from one side or the other and the two side bolt/allens would bear against the dovetail outside flat of CM-2 and provide friction pressure to keep sight in place? A picture is worth a 1,000 words see below. That would be hard to get straight and anywhere even without a mill, but would be better see pic. STBE


[IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...osssection.jpg[/IMG]

mrmosin 04-27-2009 01:41 PM

I was thinking more along the lines that part A would be more of a permant mount to the dovetail. Maybe 3 screws, part A threaded drawing part A tight against the rail. Could be epoxied to the rail, also. Then part A would be tapped for screws from part B. The holes in part B [not tapped] could be slightly oversize for minor movement and placement of part B. You could even tap the top of part B, front and rear, for some leveling screws.
More as I think thru this:D

STBE Harris 04-27-2009 03:54 PM

Mrmosin CM-2 scope mt
 
Mrmosin I like the idea of epoxing the rail would be a lot less hassel for the fabricator (me)! I think I would put release agent on the dovetail so that there would be a chance to knock it off if one wanted to bring it back to "factory". Although that would prove probably tough to do. I might would put a couple pressure friction bolts in just to keep it tight. But then drilling blind into the epoxy you would mark the dove tail flat. Hope we are getting some other folks to thinking about this would love to see an easy and inexpesive way to get a scope on one and not D&T recvr. By the way I have talked to some one who has delt with these rifles a lot and they say the receiver is not very hard as compared to center fire recvrs. Gunsmiths want from $25 to $50 per hole here in my neck of the woods, and 2-6 mos depending on the Smith another reason I would rather try homemade. STBE

mrmosin 04-27-2009 04:20 PM

Find a Harbor Freight tool co and buy a drill press, vise, and buy drill and tap from midway along with fasterners.One of the guys at the club used a hand drill to D&T his. I had thought that D&T the side rail would not be as bad as the receiver. Could be covered up pretty easy if you re-sold the rifle.
Anyway, a couple of bolts could hold part A to the rail, and bedding compound would fill in any voids. Or buy some of the 2"X2"X.250 angle from the above company and find a machinest cut the dovetail. Then you have only one piece of metal

mrmosin 04-27-2009 10:36 PM

Now that I have more time to elaborate, The best buy I have made in awhile is a Ryobi drill press from Home Depot. Cost me about $130, but I paid for it the first week. I inletted a Sako stock for a aluminum bedding block. I purchased a vise that clamps to the drill press and has movement in 4 directions. Cost-$35
You can get a drill press from harbor Freight for $45, or so, on sale. Not as sturdy or powerful, but much better than a hand drill.
I believe you are on the right track for the mount. At MTGUNS, they do kinda the same thing, but have a milling machine to cut the slot. I have another CM2 due tomorrow, and I may D&T the side rail. Will save the top of the receiver. A piece of 2"X2"X.250 angle and I am ready to go. The angle will have to be shaped lengthwise and trimmed at the bottom, but can be done with files and a hacksaw.
As you said, maybe some other forum members will add their 2 cents worth

aom22 04-28-2009 09:06 AM

Machinist Work
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by STBE Harris (Post 2365568)
... Gunsmiths want from $25 to $50 per hole here in my neck of the woods,
and 2-6 mos depending on the Smith another reason I would rather try homemade. STBE

A good machine shop (job shop) should be able to do the job for you.

By the way, from personal experience I've encountered gunsmiths
or bullet mold makers attending the school I was working at for machining instruction.

Most notable was the chief engineer and designer for Bond Arms - Greg if I remember correctly.
Shortly after Mr. Bond finished a CAD and CNC course I was involved with.
Another gun-guy friend who was enrolled in the class and I (lab assistant at TSTI)
helped Mr. Bond move from Waco to Granbury, Texas.
The reason for the move ... to establish Bond Arms - that was a long, fun day.
This was after Mr. Bond had been relieved of duties from American Derringer
and Robert A. Saunders the original owner had passed away.

The point, most gunsmiths (for that matter ... engineers) are not machinist.
They perform machining tasks as part of their occupation.

It is my opinion a machinist can perform the task as well - actually, even better because of specific training.
If you can provide clear and concise instructions (in machinist speak) for hole locations and thread specifications.
There is little doubt in my mind that a job shop would complete the task on a more timely basis.

mrmosin 04-28-2009 10:32 PM

Mr harris, have you had a chance to look at the metal website? I know several people who would buy a moderately priced mount. I am going to find someone with a mill and get a price, not on one, but several if I supply the metal. I don't think it is impossible. We may become very wealthy selling scope mounts, Obama would give us stimulus money, we could form a union which would then own the company we started. Our health care will be taken care of, and we can be paid 100 million in bonuses cause we let the goverment control our lives:cool:
Maybe I got off the subject:eek:

LonePine 04-29-2009 03:44 AM

Me - no skills, no tools. I'd buy one.

ultramag44 04-29-2009 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STBE Harris (Post 2365329)

STBE Harris,

My design is EXACTLY the same as yours, except "A" would be taller. A would be 3/8"thick steel, and tall enough to just clear the top of the receiver.

"B" would be a flat piece of aluminum or steel rectangle attatched to A w/ 3 or 4 screws, then attatch your scope base to B

Trying to carve the dovetail w/ files would be a real project. Filing is a lost art. Some of the oldtimers could do it...darn few left though.

Best would be a end mill, then an angle cutter in a Bridgeport machine.


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