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-   -   HOW TO make GUNNER TOOLS (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504746)

DrGunner 05-31-2013 03:26 AM

Hello all- I have been making my own cleaning tools for years- mostly for .22 rimfire, but more recently for other calibers including centerfires. I have given away countless tools to RFC members and have been asked many times HOW I make them. These tools are great because they can be packed into a range bag easily, do an excellent job of cleaning the bore, and allow you to clean most rifles and pistols WITHOUT disassembly. They are durable and last for years.

I have decided to post a series of chapters here, in this thread in the shooting accessories forum, explaining how to make them in detail, step by step with plenty of pictures.


I make four different tools:

The Gunner Patchsnake is a typical button style puller. I have experimented with many different types of trimmer line and have found this stuff to work best:


All you do is spike it through a cloth patch, pass it through the barrel from the breech, and pull it through (make sure the button is centered in the chamber before pulling). I make the buttons oversize, because no two barrels are identical. Shaping them is an easy job that can be done with a draw file or emery board.
You can shape the button for a loose fit to clean solvent/powder/sludge from the bore with low friction. You can also size them larger for a tight fit to clean the rifling- lands and grooves:


The Gunner Jagsnake- this allows you to apply powder solvent and/or copper solvent and oil/lube to the bore with minimal friction:


The Gunner Brushsnake: this allows you to brush most bores without disassembling the rifle. For .22s, it MUST be made from the Otis brushes listed below, because they are the only ones that allow a deep enough drill hole, and the brass sticks best to the cyanomethacrylate glue I use. For other calibers, any brush will work, but the ones made of brass hold up best. Aluminum does work, provided that the drill hole is deep enough to allow adequate surface area for the adhesive.
I don't use them on my target barrels, but they work great on my .22s that see bulk/copper washed ammo. I recently made one for 7.62mm and its working out fine- you just need to remember to let the trimmer line twist as you pull so the brush follows the rifling.
They can be made for any caliber.


The Gunner Chamber Brush- I designed this brush handle with a finger loop in the center that you place your middle finger or ring finger through. It provides excellent control and leverage for cleaning the carbon ring from the leade of the chamber without getting into the rifling. Attaching a chamber mop to the other end allows you to remove the majority of the sludge from the chamber before using the Jagsnake, Brushsnake, and Patchsnake.


I will add to this thread with four separate "chapters" on each of these over the next few days walking you through how to make all four of these tools.
They are made of .095" trimmer line, Hoppes .22cal jags, Otis .22cal pistol brushes, and the brush handles are made out of 3 piece Hoppes rod kits. One kit costs $9, and can make 3 brush handles IF the aluminum is solid- sometimes they fall apart because of impurities in the rod stock. When that happens, I usually salvage the parts into two straight handles or a short finger loop version:


Here are the jags, about $1-2 apiece:


I use Otis Pistol brushes- they are the perfect length for cleaning the chamber of a 22LR and removing the dreaded carbon ring that builds up at the end of the casings, without getting into the rifling. They come packaged in individual cases that can be modified to protect the brushes during storage or transport in your range bag:


Here are the brushes, they cost $11-13 for 10:


If you want to make chamber brush handles, order THIS KIT for $9 and you can make three handles and one .22cal and one larger caliber jag puller:


Over the next few days I will add to this thread with detailed instructions and pics on how to make each of the four tools listed above.



DrGunner 05-31-2013 03:28 AM

TOMORROW: Chapter 1
Tomorrow I will post Chapter 1: How to make the Gunner Patchsnake button style puller....



Originally Posted by DrGunner (Post 9852170)
We all have our favorite solvents, rods, brushes, pull through cleaners and the like.
I’ve been using these micro tipped cotton applicators in my work and for cleaning Guns, small electronics, and any other nook and cranny job you can imagine for over 20 years. They recently became available on Amazon- Puritan brand are the ones you want.

Imagine a 6” dowel that is 2mm in diameter, with the end of the dowel tapered to a point, then tightly spun with cotton in a micro point that’s lightly glued on... basically THE PERFECT TOOL to clean out the rim pocket in a bolt, or an extractor groove in a barrel, or under an extractor hook- without scratching or marring any surfaces.

They’re also perfect for applying grease in small quantities to specific areas like slide rails and bolt gliding surfaces.

Now imagine that you could get 1000 of those little tools for around $25 and they are single use, disposable?

Look no further, click on this link:

Puritan 6" Tapered Mini Cotton Swab w/Wooden Handle - 826-WC (Box of 1000) @ $24.99 Free Shipping w Prime Nembership




At the price of $24 for 1000, these little time savers cost less than a half a penny apiece.

While you’re at it, you might as well pick up a batch of the full cotton swab version for their obvious utility in cleaning a larger area with better absorption.
They’re even cheaper at $18.18 for 1200:



Hope this helps-


patience0830 05-31-2013 02:04 PM


scooter22 05-31-2013 02:13 PM


rokehe 05-31-2013 02:20 PM

I speak from experience, DrG offered a freebie to me and others here on the forum a while back. Using his patch puller and chamber cleaning tools and paying more attention to cleaning in general has been the most cost effective way to keep or improve the way my barrels are shooting.

Jim_WY 05-31-2013 02:22 PM

Thank you very much. I really love this sort of thread.

Your photos are excellent and your willingness to share exemplifies what is so great about RFC! :thumbup:

Phoned in.

outlinkk 05-31-2013 02:28 PM

Thanks DrGunner

excellent thread :bthumb::bthumb:

4x4craig 05-31-2013 07:36 PM

Thank you! This is very considerate of you!:bthumb:


DrGunner 05-31-2013 08:07 PM

Chapter 1- The Gunner Patchworm
So- Here goes:

I use .090 & .095" trimmer line. I have experimented with several brands and stick to this stuff:


Because it makes the most dense/solid buttons that do not have a tendency to pull off.

To make these on your own, you need:
Trimmer line
A 40 Watt Weller soldering iron or other source of heat
A 1/2" or 3/4"x1/4-20 bolt
Steel wool
A bench sander, bench grinder or belt sander.

I removed the tip from a 40W soldering iron, and installed the bolt. Plug it in and let it heat up for 10-15 minutes. I lock mine in a vise to give myself a stable work platform:


PRE cut a series of lengths of trimmer line that are several inches longer than you need. If the average barrel length you will be cleaning is 20", cut them to at least 26-28" so you have room to grip the end when pulling. It's best to start with even longer lengths when you're first starting out because there is a learning curve to getting the buttons right and you may need to cut some off and start over.
CUT THEM WITH AN EXACTO KNIFE OR OTHER RAZOR, PERPENDICULAR TO THE LINE. You want the material to melt evenly with even distribution around the trimmer line. Cutting on an angle or with wire cutters will skew or flatten the line and create an uneven button.
Hold the line out straight, and push into the center of the heated bolt. Push slowly, and as you progress the material will melt and roll up evenly around the circumference of the line. You want to make the buttons oversize for two reasons;
- They WILL shrink on cooling
- You want them oversize so that they can be sanded/filed to fit each bore with the desired amount of resistance. I usually carry two in my range kit; one that fits loosely to clear the majority of solvent and powder from the bore, and one that fits nice and tight for final cleaning.


Once they reach the desired size, set them aside to cool, be careful not to touch the button on anything as it is soft and will deform/stick easily. They will shrink considerably as they cool. You CAN dip them in ice water to rapidly cool them and stop the shrinking process, but I have found that letting them cool naturally produces a much denser, stronger button.

Button Forming Pearls: The Weller when fully heated to max temp does the job perfectly, the key to the whole process is to lock the iron in a vise LEVEL and perpendicular to the ground. Then when you are melting,hold the trimmer line vertical with just the slightest pressure, enough to keep the material melting but never really pushing on the line in as it spreads and melts. This is key because as the material melts and spreads out, it also rolls up the sides of the line itself and heats and adheres to it. If you are into much of a hurry and you push the line to melt faster, you get poor adherence, a weak button and pull off problems. In order to get the adherence that I'm talking about, the button necessarily becomes rather oversized, almost spreading to the edges of the bolt head, then it shrinks about 25% on cooling. While it cools, I inspect the button and give it tiny adjustments with a fingertip using extremely light touch to ensure that the button is perpendicular to the axis of the line and is not lopsided or out of round, but symmetrically distributed. Then after it cools I will rough size it with a 1/2 inch medium followed by fine sanding drums on a Dremel @ 15K RPM, letting the drum sander naturally run clockwise around the button following its rotation. This will cause the material to soften and rough up concentrically, which I then knock off with an emery board, checking periodically against a spent 22 casing that I have mounted to a jig. I stop when the button is just oversize to the open end of a casing.

Each one you make will leave a black residue of melted plastic on the bolt that needs to be cleaned off with steel wool:


The final buttons should look like this:


For the next step, you want to coil them up and tie them into a coil with small zip ties or tape to make the next step easier: Sanding a point on the other end for poking through cloth patches. You want to leave the free end sticking out a few inches to facilitate working on the point.


The next step- sanding the tip to a point can be done on a bench grinder, bench sander or belt sander. I use an 8" bench sander with 100 grit paper:


Now, take the coiled up portion and apply the point to the sander, turning the coil over a few times until you have ground a decent point on the tip.
Don't worry if there's plastic shavings stuck to the point, that will be easily removed later:


Once you have put a decent point on it, you need to polish the point by hand with steel wool. I have found that placing the point in a pad of steel wool, folding it closed on the point, squeezing hard and pulling the trimmer line out repeatedly works best:


The final result should be smooth, and poke through cotton patches without resistance, like this:


Now, to finish and harden the point, you simply dip it into a bottle of the thin UV Adhesive, scrape off the excess on the rim of the bottle, then holding the trimmer line vertical with the point down, flick it sharply a couple of times with your middle finger and thumb, which serves to remove excess adhesive- leaving an even coat. Then you simply cure the adhesive with a UV flashlight which comes with the glue kit linked below. The UV adhesive glue has multiple applications so the investment would not be simply for finishing patch pullers- although it does happen to do an amazing job creating and incredibly hard and resilient point for the button pullers.

Close up detail with glue hardened point on left, unfinished on right:


Product used:


Amazon link-

Contains Glue- (Thick, Thin and Flex)plus 12 LED UV Flashlight (runs on 3 AAA batteries)


The last step involves filing/ sanding the button head to fit the rifle bore.
You need to sand (using a fine grit emery board works great) or file around the circumference of the button, try to do so concentrically so that the trimmer line is at the center of the button. If your button is really large, you can take it down some with a 1/2" fine drum sander on a Dremel, allowing the drum to run around the button with the rotation of the dremel. Going against the rotation will result in flat sides on the button. Do not work aggressively, if you remove too much material the button will not apply adequate pressure to the patch and it will be ruined. If you go too far, you can simply create a new button and start over.
Work slowly, removing a little bit of material at a time. Clean the button off to make sure that there is no sanding grit on it, then test it by pushing the button into the chamber, or you can pull it through the barrel. When you get to the point that it slides through the chamber with some resistance and more resistance through the bore, you are close to finished. I usually test them without patches first. Once you have made a few, you will easily get a feel for sizing them and will be able to tell when you're done with one quick push into the chamber.

Keep working and testing with patches until you get the appropriate resistance. Don't pull with patches until the button slides easily through the chamber, or you might pull the button off.


It takes some practice getting the button size right but I decided to measure some to give you all a guideline-
Measuring mine in current use, I found that a button for a looser pull measures ..200- 205”, tighter pull around .210 and super tight around .215” (on the verge of snapping the button off).
Most of mine mic in at .205 & .210. ALL BARRELS VARY SLIGHTLY.

I keep mine sorted by wrapping them with different color Velcro strips and often blacken the end of the button of the tighter/.210” ones with a Sharpie so I have a quick visual reference which helps because I always use a jag puller, a .205” followed by a .210” in that order. Before storing them back in the safe, I usually pull a wet jag puller to oil the bore and prevent rust- if you do this, ALWAYS remember to pull a dry patch before shooting. A couple drops of lube in a bore can be invisible, until hydraulic force from a live round bulges your barrel. I know this to be true because I’ve seen it happen to a friend, right in front of me. Good news is it was a stock barrel that we planned on upgrading it anyway but it was a valuable lesson learned.
Also- 3M brand “Super 33” Electrical Tape comes in small round plastic containers that are PERFECT for storing and toting jag and patch pullers in your range bag, see pic below.
You’ll find that a .210” will produce an audible sqauwk sound on pull through. The thickness of the patch cloth and viscosity as well as amount of schmoo on the patch makes a difference. I usually pull a jag soaked patch 2-3 times (fresh patch each pass) followed by a thoroughly soaked .205”. That gets out most of the schmutz. Then I pull a few wet .210s... a few drops on the patch and pinch off excess before pulling. Then dry patches til clean. If I’m still getting carbon, I go back to a wet .210 or brush puller once or twice.
Beware extractor grooves as they can score the line. Always center the button & pull straight to avoid sawing against the crown.


I have successfully made these for .17, .22, 7mm, 300 Wby, and 7.62mm.
The end result for .22s will look like these:


If you have any questions, you know where to find me.


PS - Tomorrow, Chapter 2- The Gunner Jagsnake

Rhema 05-31-2013 08:48 PM

Great information, thank you for posting!

JEE 05-31-2013 09:08 PM

Very cool! :t

Had to sticky this one. ;)

Dr Heckel 05-31-2013 09:24 PM

Very nice write up doc:bthumb: DrG sent me a set of his cleaning tools awhile back...they work great! Thanks again!!

smitty1157 05-31-2013 09:31 PM

Thank You. I'm going to give it a try. :t

Oldblades 05-31-2013 09:35 PM


Originally Posted by JEE (Post 4586597)
Very cool! :t

Had to sticky this one. ;)

My thoughts exactly! Thanks for sharing these Gunner.

tanakasan 05-31-2013 09:58 PM

Love the DIY stuff!

Thanks a ton for sharing your skills, photos and experience! :bthumb:


Bravo Tango 05-31-2013 10:17 PM

So THAT'S how you melt the button so uniformly, on my first attempt at making one of these I used an open flame. Ended up with something functional, but not near as nice looking as yours.:D

Great write up, definitely need to make me a chamber brush.

arcojet 06-01-2013 01:14 AM

Awsome, I love this place :bthumb:

DrGunner 06-01-2013 12:12 PM

Chapter 2- The Gunner Jagsnake

I designed the Gunner Jagsnake because I wanted a frictionless method for applying solvent and lube to my barrels in the field without packing a cleaning rod.

To make them, you need :

.095 inch trimmer line (smaller line will work, you simply use smaller drill bits). Black plastic 22 caliber Hoppes jags
an X-Acto knife
a drill or dremel with a small Jacobs chuck
1/16", 3/32", and 7/64" drill bits
a bench sander or bench grinder
Cyanomethacrylate glue- liquid. Krazy Glue liquid will work
Super glue gel will not. The thin liquid cyanomethacrylate glue sold at Hobby Lobby and most hobby stores works best.

As I said before, the Hoppes Jags are available on Amazon for $1-2 apiece
(WATCH shipping charges!!!)


In the first step, cut the threads off of the jag with an Exacto knife:


Then have the three drill bits (1/16", 3/32" & 7/64") ready.


Here's the only tricky part:

You have to drill an axial hole through the center of the jag while holding it in one hand using a 1/16" drill bit in a Dremel or power drill in your other hand. I have found that a Dremel with a small Jacobs Chuck works best. You can drill the hole surprisingly deep as long as you stay centered.
Drilling with the jag in a vise doesn't work... The jag will slip loose, and if you tighten the vise enough to really grip it, it will crush and deform the jag.

Make sure you are working with new, sharp drill bits.
Work slowly and carefully, you can feel the heat inside of the jag under your fingers, if you're too close to one side, redirect the bit or you will come through. I generally drill to a depth of 1/2 inch, although 3/8" is safer and will suffice.


Set it aside and let it cool. Do another, etc, etc.

Then chuck up the 3/32" bit and drill again, using the heat you can feel in the hand holding the jag to keep the drill bit centered:


It's not too hard to reach a decent depth:


Then chuck up the final bit, in this case, a 7/64" will work for .095" trimmer line, and carefully drill the hole to depth. It helps to freeze the jags before this last drill step to keep them from melting:


Check to be sure you can insert the trimmer line to an adequate depth, at least 3/8":


Now, take the jag and chamfer the end with the drill hole, this taper will make it slip into the chamber easily and prevent the jag from getting hung up on the breech face. I turn them at a 45 degree angle against a bench sander for this task, but hand sanding would work:



Now, insert the trimmer line to full depth and mark the depth.
Score the trimmer line on all sides by dragging an Exacto knife along the surface perpendicular to the trimmer line. It helps if you use the tip of the blade, so that it can flex. When you get it right, as you drag the blade over the surface of the trimmer line, it will "chatter" along, leaving a neat row of nicks. Repeat the scoring process to all sides of the trimmer line. You're not cutting into it, just scraping the sharp edge of the blade against the trimmer line in repeated rows all the way around the circumference of the line.


The act of roughing up the surface of the trimmer line will allow the cyanomethacrylate glue to adhere. Krazy Glue liquid works fine, but thin liquid cyanomethacrylate glue from Hobby Lobby works best. In fact, Krazy glue WILL ADHERE to most plastics IF you rough up the surface adequately.

The finished trimmer line should look like this:


Next, apply the Krazy glue to all sides of the trimmer line, and add a small drop into the hole in the jag. Have Qtips handy for wiping the excess glue off the jag/trimmer line interface. Push the glue covered trimmer line into the hole in the jag IN ONE FIRM, SWIFT MOTION. Then use a Qtip, rotating the line and pressing the Qtip at the seam to quickly wipe off excess glue:


If you go too slow, it WILL lock up.
The end result should look like this:




Now simply cut the trimmer line at the other end to create an angled end to prevent it from hanging up on tuners and other sharp edges.

IMPORTANT: When using all of these "puller" type tools to clean your rifles, WATCH OUT for sharp edges, like the extractor groove on a 10-22 barrel. Some of them are extremely sharp and can nick the trimmer line if you're not careful to guide the line away from it. The same rule applies for boresnakes.

These things are surprisingly strong and will hold up for years, my oldest one is still working after almost three years of use. Obviously, you can also make them with larger caliber jags, its easier and you can drill the hole deeper for more strength.



DrGunner 06-01-2013 12:32 PM

I will post Chapter 3: The Gunner Brushsnake


jwatty 06-01-2013 01:34 PM

Wow. Like buscuits and gravy, its all good. Thanks gunner.
Any information on your cleaning process at the range and when you get home from the range?

DrGunner 06-01-2013 02:55 PM


Originally Posted by jwatty (Post 4587236)
Wow. Like buscuits and gravy, its all good. Thanks gunner.
Any information on your cleaning process at the range and when you get home from the range?

At the range, I will only clean my target rifles as necessary when their accuracy falls off-

I use a 1:3 mix of Hoppes 9 and Kroil or EEZOX to clean the chamber and bore. I usually mix a good size batch and work from a very small container- dipping brushes into a large bottle of solvent is a bad idea, as it accumulates grit and contaminants over time.

I bend the brush that I scrub the chamber with to the length I need to get to the carbon ring, which forms right at the end of the casing. Use a spent case to set the depth, but if the brush you use is tapered, you might need to make the bend a little longer- you just don't want to scrub deeper than the length of a live round.

I use Otis pistol brushes, they're shorter than most rifle brushes, and therefore you can bend them below where the bristles start, which makes it easier to get a nice clean bend in the twisted wire shaft of the brush and avoid smashing the bristles. Plus, they're sold in a pack of 10 that come individually packaged in handy little hard sided flip open clear sided boxes that can be modded to protect the brushes on tools in your range bag, 10 for $10.50. Win-Win, IMO



No real need to go deeper and scrub the actual leade or rifling, unless you have copper or lead fouling in the lands and grooves and if that's the case, you should be brushing the entire bore to begin with.
Most hand lapped barrels will not suffer from lead fouling...

If your barrel gets dirty really easily you might want to polish it with a little JB bore paste.

The short answer- I scrub with solvent about 1/8" deeper than the casing length, and use my jagsnake and patchsnakes to do the rest. I clean the chamber about once every 1000 rounds on some barrels, once every 500 or so on others.

Basically, I clean the bore with a brushless boresnake or my jag and button pullers, about every 2-300 rounds at the range- Which is a function of accuracy-

snake or patch it when it fades.

This is why, IMHO, it is imperative to test barrels extensively with proven lots of good match grade ammo, so that you KNOW what a rifle is capable of- only then can you be confident in assessing the rifles behavior/loss of accuracy because of fouling.

I clean my barrels at the range with cotton patches, one- two passes with Hoppes/Kroil mix or EEEZOX, followed by dry patches as necessary til they come out clean.

As long as the rifle "comes back in", I continue shooting.

When it goes away and won't come back, its time for Hoppes/Kroil/chamber scrub.

It is not uncommon for me to shoot 500-700 rounds of 22LR in a typical range day.

After each range session, my rifles are completely disassembled and cleaned thoroughly.

The barrels are cleaned as described above. I only brush barrels that see bulk/copper washed ammo, and infrequently at that- but ALWAYS from the breech. If a 10-22 clone does not have a rear cleaning hole, I drill one or brush the bore with my Brushsnake.

My target/match barrels only ever see lubed lead ammo, and are seldom brushed.

I clean the bolt, charging assembly and inside of the receiver with the Hoppes/Kroil mix, but if they're really gunked up I start with Break Free Powder Blast.

I usually only clean the TG by blowing it out with compressed air. I will spray Break Free in them about once every 4-5 cleaning sessions (1500-2000 rounds), then blow them out thoroughly with compressed air.

I use Hornady One Shot dry lube or Liquid Wrench dry lube on my TGs on all guns.

I use TW25 gun grease or Slip2000 AR grease sparingly on the upper gliding surface of the bolts of my 10-22 clones and on the bolt glide channels of other semi auto and bolt action rifles.

I use Militec Spec (10-22s),

LPS Magnum lube (Centerfire semi auto pistols and rifles),

or MPro7 gun oil (Bolt actions) very lightly on bolts, chrging rods and other moving parts.

My lube process is simple- apply sparingly and wipe off most of the lube.


jwatty 06-01-2013 03:09 PM

Wow. I would vote for that post to be its own sticky. Great information packed into an easy to digest strait forward way. You are the man. Thanks again!

DrGunner 06-02-2013 12:50 PM

Chapter 3- The Gunner Brushsnake
Chapter 3- The Gunner Brushsnake-

The process for making these is nearly identical to the Jagsnake in Chapter 2. The brushes that I have found to work best for this tool are .22 caliber pistol brushes made by Otis, also available on Amazon for $11-12 for a package of 10:


They come in handy little plastic boxes; if you cut a keyhole slot in the end of them with a dremel, you can use the case to protect the brush while its attached to a Brushsnake or chamber handle:


In order to make the Gunner Brushsnake, you will need:
A bench vise
Otis brushes
.095" trimmer line
A drill or dremel with a Jacobs chuck
1/16", 3/32" and 7/64" drill bits
An Exacto knife
A bench sander, bench grinder, belt sander or sandpaper and time
Liquid cyanomethacrylate glue or Krazy glue liquid
A polishing wheel or polishing bit for the dremel.

I have tried this with alumunim brushes, and it can work, but the glue adheres to brass much more readily than aluminum.

EDIT: I’ve copied and pasted the following step from below:

BEFORE I MAKE BRUSHSNAKES, I will “SET” the bristles on several brushes using a take-off stock .22 barrel (I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING AN ACTIVE USE RIFLE- an old used barrel is perfect for this job). That said, if you don’t have a take off barrel handy, you can use any rifle- a bolt action with the bolt removed is easiest- and I recommend using a bore guide to protect the crown as this process involves the TABOO step of passing a cleaning rod from crown to breech. I pass the cleaning rod from crown to breech, then thread on a lightly oiled brush, and pull it through from chamber to crown, then repeat 3-4 times. Repeat with all the brushes you intend to fabricate into brushsnakes. This process serves to “set” the bristles to the forward swept angle they will take when pulled through during normal use. If you don’t do something to precondition them, there will be a LOT of resistance on the trimmer line the first few times you use them, significantly increasing the chances of pulling out the trimmer line.

Now- To actually MAKE them:

First, cut the threads off of the brush- its OK to leave one or two threads on the brush, since you will be chamfering the end of it just like the process used to make the Jagsnake in chapter 2. A good pair of wire cutters works fine here:


Then, sand or grind the end of the brass base of the brush. I use the bench sander for this step:


Now, lock the brush in a vise. Drill an axial hole at least 1/4" deep into the brass base-DON'T DRILL TOO DEEP, or you will push the brush out...
I have drilled many of them to 3/8" or more without disrupting the stamped-in fit of the brush.
Start with a 1/16" sharp drill bit. The majority of Otis brushes have plenty of room to drill before you hit the wire part of the brush. If you do hit the wire before you reach a decent depth, you may not be able to use that brush... IME, this only happens to about 1 in 15 or so brushes.
Again, it helps to leave 2 threads on the brush base for added depth/surface area for the trimmer line to adhere to:


Drill first with a 1/16" bit:


Then step up to the 3/32" bit:


Last, drill with the 7/64" bit, the hole will now fit the trimmer line:


Next, take the brush and chamfer the end with the drill hole to create a tapered end that will slip into the chamber easily without hanging up on the breech face.
I simply spin them against the bench sander at a 45 degree angle:


The next step is optional; You can polish the tapered surface that you just sanded. I use jeweler's rouge on a rag wheel for this, but a small polishing wheel on a dremel would suffice:



Next, clean off any polishing compound and dry the brush and socket thoroughly. Insert trimmer line and mark the depth with an Exacto knife:


Using the same process that was used to rough up the trimmer line to make the Jagsnake, holding the blade perpendicular to the trimmer line, drag the tip of the Exacto knife along the trimmer line so that it "chatters" along, leaving a row of score marks. Again, you are not cutting the line. Place the edge of the Exacto knife against the trimmer line, using the tip of a sharp blade. Drag the knife along the trimmer line sideways to rough it up, repeating as necessary around the circumference of the line.
THIS STEP IS CRITICAL as it causes the glue to adhere to the trimmer line.
Test fit the trimmer line into the drill hole and trim as necessary so that only smooth line is exposed. The result should look like this:


Now, apply Krazy glue liquid or thin cyanomethacrylate liquid to the trimmer line, plus a small drop in the drill hole:


Push the line QUICKLY into the drill hole to full depth. Wipe off any glue that squeezes out with a Qtip, and hold together for several seconds. The end result should look like this:


Now cut a 45 degree angle into the other end of the trimmer line.
You can now place the brush into the plastic container it came with which you previously cut a keyhole slot into. This will protect it in your range bag...



Remember, when using these, the brush will need to follow in the rifling grooves. You need to allow the trimmer line to twist as you pull these through the barrel. Most barrels have a right hand / clockwise twist from the perspective of the breech. That means that you will need to allow/help the trimmer line to twist COUNTER CLOCKWISE when pulling from the muzzle. These are extremely durable and will hold up much longer than the brush itself.
I have made them with aluminum jags with nylon brushes- it just takes longer for the glue to set.
They can also be made in any caliber, although I haven't tried a .17 yet...

SOME OF THESE BRUSHSNAKES WILL BREAK IF THE BORE IS TOO TIGHT!!!! It helps immensely to put the Brushsnake into the bore as if you plan to pull it, THEN PUSH IT THROUGH FROM BEHIND WITH A ROD FOR A FEW PASSES TO SET THE BRISTLES. MORE RECENTLY, I’ve found a better way- BEFORE I MAKE BRUSHSNAKES, I will “SET” the bristles on several brushes using a take-off stock .22 barrel (I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING AN ACTIVE USE RIFLE- an old used barrel is perfect for this job). I pass a cleaning rod from crown to breech, attach a lightly oiled brush, and pull it through from chamber to crown, then repeat 3-4 times. This process serves to “set” the bristles to the froward swept angle they will take when pulled through during normal use. If you don’t do something to precondition them, there will be a LOT of resistance on the trimmer line the first few times you use them, significantly increasing the chances of pulling out the trimmer line.



DrGunner 06-02-2013 01:56 PM

Next Up: Chapter 4: The Gunner Chamber Brush
I will post the last section tomorrow or Tuesday, as time permits...

Thank you all for the support and kind words-


DrGunner 06-03-2013 10:37 PM

Chapter 4- The Gunner Chamber Brush, Part 1
Chapter 4- The Gunner Chamber Brush

I make my chamber brushes with a finger loop in the center, which provides superb control and leverage for cleaning the chamber on most pistols and rifles WITHOUT having to disassemble the firearm. For some applications, these work better if you change the angle of the brush from the 90 degrees pictured above to a lower angle, say, for access to deeper chambers like centerfire bolt actions. This design is also superb for cleaning revolvers.


You simply place your ring finger or middle finger through the loop:



I make my chamber brush from aluminum or brass cleaning rods. I usually use a Hoppes 3 piece rod kit that also contains a large and small jag that can be fashioned into the Jagsnake featured in chapter 2 of this thread.
The kit is available on Amazon, for about $9:


In order to make these, you will need:
Alumunim or Brass rod sections
A bench vise
A power drill
1/16", 3/32", 1/8" & 9/64" drill bits
An 8-32 tap
A MAPP gas or Propane torch
A 5/8" deep well socket (a spark plug socket with hex end is ideal)
Heavy leather gloves.

First, you need to cut the "male" ends off of the threaded rod sections, and cut the "T" handle off of the top section. The "female" ends of the rod sections can simply be tapped to the larger 8-32 tap size. You must drill and tap the other end to create a doule ended tool. You could also choose to make two chamber brush handles, and leave the "T" handle on the top rod section, tap the other end to 8-32 and use it for cleaning pistols, if you so desire.

After you have cut the "male" end off of the rod stock, grind the end flat on a bench sander or bench grinder. Then, lock the section of rod in a vise, padded with cardboard or leather. You will then drill an axial hole into the end of the rod section, starting with the 1/16" bit and working your way up, in stepwise fashion to 9/64.


Here is what the rod stock looks like after the male section was lopped off and the end prepped on the bench sander. It's locked in a vise, with leather padding.


I will describe how to do this with a hand drill, even though I personally cheat and do these on my drill press :)
IT IS IMPERATIVE that the initial drill hole starts at the center of the rod, and stays centered, the best way to accomplish this is to work SLOWLY, with a fresh, sharp drill bit, and check your work from more than one angle as you go.
You want to drill to a depth of at least 1/2-3/4"
IF you drill off center, stop, cut the rod shorter, grind the end flat and start over.


Next, step up to the 3/32" bit, and bore to the same depth, staying centered.


Next, same thing, 1/8" bit:


Finally, the 9/64" bit:


Next, prepare to tap. Blow out all chips from the drill hole.
Spray some oil or WD 40 into the drill hole and on the tap.


You can tap by hand, but with aluminum that is properly pre drilled to 9/64", you CAN get away with tapping with the 8-32 tap chucked in a power drill:


Run the tap 1/2 way in, reverse it out. Blow chips off of the tap and out of the drill hole. Reapply oil to the tap and in the drill hole.
Rerun the tap to full depth. Make sure the part is clamped solid in the vise, and run the drill slow and steady. Too fast and you will snap the tap in half.


Back the tap out, blow the chips out of the threaded hole, and test fit a bore brush or other 8-32 cleaning accessory into the tapped hole, threading it all the way in until it seats.


If the other end of the rod section is female, but is part of the mid-sections of the rod, you simply need to drill it to 9/64" and tap the hole using the same method just described.

You SHOULD now have a straight section of rod that is drilled and tapped to 8-32 on both ends. Next step: bending the rod in order to create the center "finger loop".

The next step requires heating the rod section and bending it around a jig.
I use a 5/8" spark plug socket- it has a hex end which makes it ideal for locking it into a vise for stability, and is the right size for a finger loop for me- I have large hands. You may wish to make the loop smaller.

Here's my socket, locked in a vise it becomes my bending jig:




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