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-   -   HOW TO make GUNNER TOOLS (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504746)

DrGunner 07-27-2017 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OCD (Post 9230393)
Has anyone made or "invented" a limited breech pull through brush?

For pistols like the Ruger Mk series, Browning Buckmark etc??

The Otis limited breech brush (with small threads) on their 177 cal wire doesn't even fit!

I called them and they are phasing that out and may be making one that will work?

I would rather make my own. I have the trimmer line and can pull patches but would like a brush also.

Any ideas?

Uh- did you READ this thread?

You might find page 2 useful, especially the bit about the Gunner Brushsnake.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...=504746&page=2

And yes, it works on my Buckmark, Ruger MKII and 10-22s

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68b73fb8.jpg

Now cut a 45 degree angle into the other end of the trimmer line.
You can now place the brush into the plastic container it came with which you previously cut a keyhole slot into. This will protect it in your range bag...

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48d0d288.jpg

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps65eec978.jpg


DrGunner

OCD 07-27-2017 05:37 PM

Yes I had read that. I bought a 10 pack of Otis brushes Item #322=BP

Each brush is 2-1/4" long. If the threads are cut off it is right at 2" long, which is longer than the breech of my MII, Buckmark SW Victory??

The ejection port on my MKII is 1- 1/2" wide and the bolt protrudes a little bit inside that.

So I do not understand how it can fit those pistols

What am I missing?:confused:

DrGunner 07-27-2017 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OCD (Post 9231417)
Yes I had read that. I bought a 10 pack of Otis brushes Item #322=BP

Each brush is 2-1/4" long. If the threads are cut off it is right at 2" long, which is longer than the breech of my MII, Buckmark SW Victory??

The ejection port on my MKII is 1- 1/2" wide and the bolt protrudes a little bit inside that.

So I do not understand how it can fit those pistols

What am I missing?:confused:

Hmmm. My brushes aren't that long, older stock. I'm at work so I can't measure them right now but I'm pretty sure they're around 1.5 finished, and they do have to be angled in to pull through. I wonder if Otis changed the length?

OCD 07-27-2017 06:30 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Pics of brushes.

OCD 08-06-2017 08:49 AM

DrGun,

Did you measure your brushes??:confused:

DrGunner 08-07-2017 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OCD (Post 9286145)
DrGun,

Did you measure your brushes??:confused:

Just did this AM. I have newer stock that are same as yours, which you're right- would not work. The older ones I have are shorter, I measured the ones that are already fabricated and they're just over 1.5" with the threads cut off and trimmer line attached, they will fit thru my MKIII but just barely. Time to scour the market for shorter brushes...

DrGunner

OCD 08-07-2017 02:49 PM

OK, Thanks

I looked for short ones but can't really tell on line.

DrGunner 08-07-2017 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OCD (Post 9295345)
OK, Thanks

I looked for short ones but can't really tell on line.

I will dig around and post back if I find a suitable replacement that works.

Croohur 09-05-2017 07:37 AM

Great thread. Just spent a good 35 minutes reading this through. What to make first.....

Kahuna 10-04-2017 08:35 AM

Great Thread! Thanks Dr G!

DrGunner 10-04-2017 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OCD (Post 9295345)
OK, Thanks

I looked for short ones but can't really tell on line.

So far I've searched and come up empty. I did find some older ones in my tool bench and YOU WERE RIGHT, at some point they went from an OAL of 1.75" to 2.25". My older ones produced a final tool that was just under 1.5" long from the taper where the line attaches to the brush tip, so they could be angled and phenagled just enough to work in my Buckmark and MKIII. The newer Otis pistol brushes produce a final brush that is just over 1.5".

IF ANYONE FINDS .22 BORE BRUSHES THAT ARE SHORT ENOUGH (UNDER 1.5" from Shank where threads start to brush tip, PLEASE POST THEM HERE!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Croohur (Post 9468673)
Great thread. Just spent a good 35 minutes reading this through. What to make first.....

Lemme know if you need any help, I'm always down to give advice or send freebies of things people can't make on their own. Although it's MUCH better if you can make your own button pullers as the diameter of button needed for each individual rifle varies and having a system down to make a bunch assembly line style is a good thing.

Oh- and I'm pretty sure I know where you're from and that would not stop me from shipping you a set if you need them.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Kahuna (Post 9632505)
Great Thread! Thanks Dr G!

.

No prob. Lemme know if you need any help or you can't make something you need, I'd be glad to help.

Thanks for the kind words throughput this entire thread from so many of you. It's comments like yours that make threads like this worth doing and I've sent hundreds of these tools to members over the years. It feels good to give back to a community that has given me so much.

DrGunner

DrGunner 11-12-2017 06:20 AM

ANOTHER CLEANING TOOL
 
We all have our favorite solvents, rods, brushes, pull through cleaners and the like.
Iíve been using these micro tipped cotton applicators in my work and for cleaning Guns, small electronics, and any other nook and cranny job you can imagine for over 20 years. They recently became available on Amazon- Puritan brand are the ones you want.

Imagine a 6Ē dowel that is 2mm in diameter, with the end of the dowel tapered to a point, then tightly spun with cotton in a micro point thatís lightly glued on... basically THE PERFECT TOOL to clean out the rim pocket in a bolt, or an extractor groove in a barrel, or under an extractor hook- without scratching or marring any surfaces.

Theyíre also perfect for applying grease in small quantities to specific areas like slide rails and bolt gliding surfaces.

Now imagine that you could get 1000 of those little tools for around $25 and they are single use, disposable?

Look no further, click on this link:

Puritan 6" Tapered Mini Cotton Swab w/Wooden Handle - 826-WC (Box of 1000) @ $24.99 Free Shipping w Prime Nembership


http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psbk4iloz7.jpg

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psamkwwrxd.jpg

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps35sk1086.jpg

At the price of $24 for 1000, these little time savers cost less than a half a penny apiece.


While youíre at it, you might as well pick up a batch of the full cotton swab version for their obvious utility in cleaning a larger area with better absorption.
Theyíre even cheaper at $18.18 for 1200:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074W...on+swabs&psc=1

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psx4zffpwp.jpg


Hope this helps-


DrGunner

r_olsen 11-12-2017 10:08 AM

Great read! I like your solutions to make affordable tools for cleaning guns, especially the chamber brush!

I'll try to make some of my own tools, using your ideas. Thanks!

varmit hunter67 11-17-2017 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrGunner (Post 4586524)
So- Here goes:

I use .090 & .095" trimmer line. I have experimented with several brands and stick to this stuff:

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psda05fc12.jpg

Because it makes the most dense/solid buttons that do not have a tendency to pull off.

To make these on your own, you need:
Trimmer line
A 40 Watt Weller soldering iron or other source of heat
A 1/2" or 3/4"x1/4-20 bolt
Steel wool
A bench sander, bench grinder or belt sander.



I removed the tip from a 40W soldering iron, and installed the bolt. Plug it in and let it heat up for 10-15 minutes. I lock mine in a vise to give myself a stable work platform:

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...z/0eea7ca4.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...z/8daafdf0.jpg

PRE cut a series of lengths of trimmer line that are several inches longer than you need. If the average barrel length you will be cleaning is 20", cut them to at least 26-28" so you have room to grip the end when pulling. It's best to start with even longer lengths when you're first starting out because there is a learning curve to getting the buttons right and you may need to cut some off and start over.
CUT THEM WITH AN EXACTO KNIFE OR OTHER RAZOR, PERPENDICULAR TO THE LINE. You want the material to melt evenly with even distribution around the trimmer line. Cutting on an angle or with wire cutters will skew or flatten the line and create an uneven button.
Hold the line out straight, and push into the center of the heated bolt. Push slowly, and as you progress the material will melt and roll up evenly around the circumference of the line. You want to make the buttons oversize for two reasons;
- They WILL shrink on cooling
- You want them oversize so that they can be sanded/filed to fit each bore with the desired amount of resistance. I usually carry two in my range kit; one that fits loosely to clear the majority of solvent and powder from the bore, and one that fits nice and tight for final cleaning.

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps62b807b0.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psc2cf512d.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psf519c7b0.jpg

Once they reach the desired size, set them aside to cool, be careful not to touch the button on anything as it is soft and will deform/stick easily. They will shrink considerably as they cool. You CAN dip them in ice water to rapidly cool them and stop the shrinking process, but I have found that letting them cool naturally produces a much denser, stronger button.

Each one you make will leave a black residue of melted plastic on the bolt that needs to be cleaned off with steel wool:

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5ca84f93.jpg

The final buttons should look like this:

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps00e66223.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...z/aa870286.jpg

For the next step, you want to coil them up and tie them into a coil with small zip ties or tape to make the next step easier: Sanding a point on the other end for poking through cloth patches. You want to leave the free end sticking out a few inches to facilitate working on the point.

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps74a5b7c5.jpg

The next step- sanding the tip to a point can be done on a bench grinder, bench sander or belt sander. I use an 8" bench sander with 100 grit paper:

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps44ae8bcc.jpg

Now, take the coiled up portion and apply the point to the sander, turning the coil over a few times until you have ground a decent point on the tip.
Don't worry if there's plastic shavings stuck to the point, that will be easily removed later:

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psa5940cb0.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps694d7cc8.jpg

Once you have put a decent point on it, you need to polish the point by hand with steel wool. I have found that placing the point in a pad of steel wool, folding it closed on the point, squeezing hard and pulling the trimmer line out repeatedly works best:

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5a8ce20c.jpg

The final result should be smooth, and poke through cotton patches without resistance, like this:

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psf58af4dc.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps24c5c10f.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psa38df13a.jpg

The last step involves filing/ sanding the button head to fit the rifle bore.
You need to sand (using a fine grit emery board works great) or file around the circumference of the button, try to do so concentrically so that the trimmer line is at the center of the button. If your button is really large, you can take it down some with a 1/2" fine drum sander on a Dremel, allowing the drum to run around the button with the rotation of the dremel. Going against the rotation will result in flat sides on the button. Do not work aggressively, if you remove too much material the button will not apply adequate pressure to the patch and it will be ruined. If you go too far, you can simply create a new button and start over.
Work slowly, removing a little bit of material at a time. Clean the button off to make sure that there is no sanding grit on it, then test it by pushing the button into the chamber, or you can pull it through the barrel. When you get to the point that it slides through the chamber with some resistance and more resistance through the bore, you are close to finished. I usually test them without patches first. Once you have made a few, you will easily get a feel for sizing them and will be able to tell when you're done with one quick push into the chamber.

Keep working and testing with patches until you get the appropriate resistance. Don't pull with patches until the button slides easily through the chamber, or you might pull the button off.

I have successfully made these for .17, .22, 7mm, 300 Wby, and 7.62mm.
The end result for .22s will look like these:

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...AB0965BF26.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...ps254e2934.jpg
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/...psfa81e164.jpg

If you have any questions, you know where to find me.
Enjoy!

DrGunner


PS - Tomorrow, Chapter 2- The Gunner Jagsnake

I am dense! How do you get the nice, round, fat button??

Never mind. The images finally came up.. Got it!

Duh, VH :Oman:

DrGunner 11-17-2017 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r_olsen (Post 9859146)
Great read! I like your solutions to make affordable tools for cleaning guns, especially the chamber brush!

I'll try to make some of my own tools, using your ideas. Thanks!

No problem. If you canít get the chamber brush made, PM me your address and Iíll send you one- in Norway.

DrGunner


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