RimfireCentral.com Forums

RimfireCentral.com Forums (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php)
-   Russian Rimfires & Biathlon (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=178)
-   -   Ural Overhaul VII (https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=277423)

RET 04-19-2009 10:01 PM

Ural Overhaul VII
Final shaping.

Check your work more often than normal. It is easy to remove to much material.

Watch the corners, keep them sharp.


Remember what you are working on... This rifle was made under slave labor circumstances many times. The person performing the labor was not thrilled to perform whatever task assigned. Workmanship was only what was required to pass...forget pride in outcomes. I write this because almost everything about these rifles ( I have several ) will require a trade off in outcomes. Sometimes I wonder how they perform as well as they do!! Here is some of the common problems with the stocks.

Barrel channels may not be centered.
Stock sides may not be parallel.
Inletting depth may not be consistent.
Wood quality may vary.
Checkering is always very poor ( EXAMPLES: Run overs, uneven, crooked lines, diamonds turning into squares, no diamond points, shallow depth. Overall this is some of the poorest so called checkering I have ever seen.)

The point is when making a gun built under these conditions into one that has symmetry, you will face trade offs. I will note a few here.

Finally, the outcomes are intended to be ones that most DIYS readers can accomplish.

Stock bore line sanded. A crisp edge is desired here. If there is much damage, do not reduce this top edge. Either let it go, or build it up with wood or epoxy.
One will visually notice a problem here quickly, so do not violate this rule.

Cartridge holes drilled. I like to have my 5 rounds handy during competition, so the rifle need not not be lowered. A little faster for single shots like this one. Since this will be painted, epoxy lines do not matter. Notice the paper on the bottom stock edge. A small piece of wood chipped. Put a piece of cardboard on both sides of the stock and C clamp. Fill void with epoxy. Sand the cardboard off.

Port /lightening cuts extended through the stock. View from the top.

View from the bottom. Ensure the drill pierced the correct location. Drill holes and connect with rat tail rasps. Maintain the cheek piece angle.


Make a sanding block 6" longer than the work piece. This was 3 pieces of wood screwed together and the angel cut the length of it. Glue sand paper to the wood. I use 60 grit paper at this stage. Screw the stock to the table and sand. Maintain contact the entire length, but put more pressure on areas with more wood removal. This block was cut to sand 76 degrees on the side while in contact with the table. Notice the stock has areas sanded at the back and front. The center has a large dip as noted on prior posts. I need to remove material on front and back to even out and thin the stock.



Dip revealed at belly and bore line by long sanding block.

This stock is thicker on the RH barrel channel side. In other words, the channel is not centered. Notice the sanded area is more or less parallel with the top of the stock. Some of this is from an amateur working on the stock sometime in it's history.

Castoff maintained. One may be able to see the stock thickness by comparing the tip of the RH/LH barrel channel. RH is thicker.

Use the big sanding block to straighten the stock belly.

Again, notice the hourglass shaped dip about 1.5 inches from the tip. Sand until both sides are parallel, unless the area falls within a reshaping area. Stop sanding prior to the stock being reduced below the trigger guard fixture.


View from the front of RH/LH/ Center of stock. One can tell here that the stock had several inches removed, from the non-matching ends sanding unevenly. This is where a very long sanding block works best, and evens the surface.


At roughly the same stock thickness, a dissimilar shape emerges. Now they may be evened. I'll most likely reshape the fore end belly to match the two.


LH side as seen with outside light.


RH side as seen with outside light. About time to begin blending the panels and making parallel with the bore line. Notice the "window" in the port at this angle.


More to come,


RET 04-21-2009 09:53 AM

Bolt extension weight loss.
Reduce to size with a drill press, lathe or hand drill mounted in a vice.
File to size, sand paper.




More to come,


RET 05-11-2009 09:42 PM

A little more clean up work...
Whenever possible, use an aid to achieve a straight line. In this case, a piece of thin steel clamped to the stock allows a straight line to be rasped. This is the bottom of the cheek piece. I want the port to be even with the bottom edge.


A rasp removes to much material. Use files or sand paper here. Keep a straightedge handy for checking lines.


I also did not like the slab sides, so they are rounded now. I like to use a board the width of the area to be sanded. My strokes are from the bottom to the top instead of front to back. In other words, sand the edges as much as the center..or you will create a dip. Do not sand your reference lines away.


Sanding blocks are useful in corners.


Examine your hand, and look at the grip of a stock. Match your hand in shaping the wood.




These holes are remnants for the cartridges holes that I plugged. Experiment a little.


Most rifle grips are not shaped according to the human hand. Look at your palm and see how your fingers extend from the palm in a radius. The first and fourth fingers are begin sooner that the middle two. When gripping a rifle, the little finger is most comfortable NOT being pushed forward as much as the middle two. My little finger should move further back. I need to reduce the grip diameter here. Since my finger / palm edge extended below the grip cap area, I need to extend the stock.


This looks like a piece of oak, but really is a grip extension. Grip cap area must be flat....this already is, so apply the epoxy and wait a day to rasp to fit.


Irregular areas may be clamped with a rubber band or two.


C clamp is to stop the rubber band from pulling the wood to far.


Finished and awaiting the rasp. The attached block is much larger than needed, but gluing a piece to large for the job is easier to work with than one that is to small.


More to come,


RET 05-12-2009 01:42 PM

Shaping a grip area for maximum
shooting accuracy. I have noticed "engaging" conversations about the look of a stock, as if how it appears is more important than function.

The stock has an assumed primary function...enabling accuracy. Anything that detracts from that goal should be examined in light of the assumed goal, or another goal. Example: I have customers who want a certain look, and do not care if that "Look" is not an enhancement of the function of accuracy. Sometimes the look IS more important IF the gun sets in the gun safe, or is for show only....or perhaps fired a few times a year.

But, for competition/accuracy purposes, function remains supreme.

On these Russian rifles, the stocks followed a prevailing format of that day. I am sure anyone reading this has seen a has seen trends in guns like clothing of autos. This stock was made for medium hand sizes, perhaps in late JR or Sr high school. An average American man, average hand size, would be slightly large for this grip / stock. The larger the man/ hands, the more the hand must be contorted to shoot this rifle for maximum accuracy. Maximum accuracy potential is achieved when the body does not contort when holding the stock.

On this stock, my palm heel extends over the edge of the grip and the little finger is pushed forward. The designers did have these facts in mind when designing the stocks because the grip on some have a groove , just below the palm swell, for the little finger. And, the grip cap area is angled for function and weight reduction. All I am doing is adding material to adapt the stock for my size of hand.

Notice my fingers are angled upward, to all fit on the grip, and index finger juts downward at and angle.


My palm heel extends over the side of the grip cap area somewhat, even though I am keeping my hand cramped so as to all fit on the grip area. This detracts from a natural hold, and potential accuracy.


Here my hand fits better. No cramping. Index finger is parallel to the stock and other fingers/ stock belly and heel extends over the grip.



Side view with extension. Rough shaped.




Grip cap area angled for weight reduction.



( A great thing about these rifles is that they are inexpensive, rugged, low trade value and the stocks have wood to spare. Great for the DIYS stock maker. If you ever want to charge for your work, you have experience in what to do, avoid. Drilling, plugging, adding wood is not an option on customers stock many times. )

More to come,


RET 05-22-2009 10:19 PM

Shaping work finished..sanding next.














Use a smooth file to even high and low spots. Sanding after that. May need a little work on the grip cap area.

More to come,



Prior posts

Ural Overhaul I

Ural Overhaul II

Ural Overhaul III

Ural Overhaul IV

Ural Overhaul V

Ural Overhaul VI

Ural Overhaul VII

Ural Overhaul VIII

Ural Overhaul IX

Ural Overhaul X

RET 07-02-2009 07:53 AM

Work halted until HOT weather...
backs away a little and other work allows for this project.

Stock is ready to sand, stipple, and finish.

More to come,


RET 10-02-2009 01:49 PM

Picking the project back up..
Barrel removed, cut and crowned. These babies screwed on TIGHT!!!!!!!!!!
One of the longest shanks I've ever seen.
Barrel now 16.5"
Target Crown, w/ 11 degree center surface.

Stock work is finished except sanding.

Will begin that soon.


Front sight for sale. Great condition.
Only looked through by a little old Russian lady on her way to party meetings and standing in line for food and health care.

More to come,


RET 11-27-2009 02:59 PM

A little closer to the finish line.
If it wasn't for needing to make a living, this would be finished long ago....

I like to paint a stock ( which will be finished w/ paint anyway ) with gray or white primer after my rough sanding but prior top final sanding. I find I spot mistakes more easily. The paint will be sanded or stippled away on this subject. On other stocks, the paint remaining in the pores many times gives a modest "camo" appearance. This only applies to open grain wood...oak, mahogany, etc. If stippling will be applied, keep two things in mind. First, no need to finish sand if diamond burrs are used...they will remove the top layer anyway. And, sharp corners must be blunted or the edge becomes very thin and will break at some point due the the burr undercutting the wood close to the edge. This one needs blunting on the fore end.

A reminder for those having problems with cracking at the wrist. Many times this will never stop, but if it will be refinished anyway, and the cracks are larger than hairline, but not huge, apply a non-viscous or super glue type of glue to a thoroughly heated stock. It will be "sucked" into the cracks and penetrate the wood fibers. If you try this, do it correctly the first time or the surface is sealed and no second chances.













I did not like my trigger finger rubbing the stock, so rasped a finger groove on the stock belly, forward of the grip area. This looks terrible, but it will work out in the end...and soon I hope! I will 3 color paint camo this stock/metal/scope. Ready to attach large bolt handle now.

Forgot to mention prior, this is a "Stealth" style standing silhouette stock, ..............chin not cheek weld.

More to come,


Trent 12-01-2009 12:04 AM

I'm looking forward to some photos of the action in the stock. Great thread. :bthumb:

midwest swiss 12-06-2009 11:21 PM


Originally Posted by Trent (Post 2662826)
I'm looking forward to some photos of the action in the stock. Great thread. :bthumb:

It is great to see a Master do his magic. Great thread....Ret

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:41 PM.

DMCA Notice

Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2000-2018 RimfireCentral.com