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  #181  
Old 10-06-2009, 10:46 PM
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Hello everyone. New guy here, I have read through this whole thread and plan on doing the trigger shim on my new Mk II Non accutrigger .22 I bought from Walmart but have ran into a snag. The rear trigger housing screw is no longer a flathead type screw but some kind of what looks like an hex head screw. Is there a special tool for this or will a hex wrench work on it. If a Hex will work what size is it?
  #182  
Old 10-09-2009, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by pipsquak View Post
Hello everyone. New guy here, I have read through this whole thread and plan on doing the trigger shim on my new Mk II Non accutrigger .22 I bought from Walmart but have ran into a snag. The rear trigger housing screw is no longer a flathead type screw but some kind of what looks like an hex head screw. Is there a special tool for this or will a hex wrench work on it. If a Hex will work what size is it?
It's a 1/4" hex head / allen wrench that you'll need.

Here's what the latest version of the trigger looks like...

  #183  
Old 10-09-2009, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by erikrs301 View Post
It's a 1/4" hex head / allen wrench that you'll need.

Here's what the latest version of the trigger looks like...
Thank you. It took me about 5 minutes to make this mod. I did do a search on scope mounts but couldn't really find any one piece mounts for a red dot. Are there any?
  #184  
Old 10-09-2009, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pipsquak View Post
Thank you. It took me about 5 minutes to make this mod. I did do a search on scope mounts but couldn't really find any one piece mounts for a red dot. Are there any?
I think EGW is the only one out there...
http://egw-guns.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=280
  #185  
Old 10-12-2009, 04:41 AM
BIGDAVE54
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I bought the model 93rfv. It is an older model that has a synthetic stock. I bought it used of of a crusty looking young guy that lives near me. He is sort of a 'pig pen" type young guy kinda like the lil fella on the Peanuts cartoon. The rifle I believe is 3-4 years old and was stored in his pickup behind the front seat. I bought it at night very cheap and just wanted to get home and clean up after a long day of chores at home.
The first thing I noticed was the dried piece of peanut butter sandwich his kid and thrown behind the truck seat to keep from eating It had stuck to the rifle barrel and dried . The case was filthy too. I could whop my hand against it and black dust would cover my hand. As I sat out cleaning the rifle i found the hairline crack across half the stock.I took it off the barelled action,spread the crack open and dumped a liberal amount of SuperGlue in the crack and let it flop closed.The hold down screws were about three threads loose on each allen head bolt. I removed the trigger and tried to put a few thin slices of feeler gauge on each side and take out the side to side play. It did not work so I put the pin and keeper back and bent the trigger housing enough to let the play out.I put the clipped ink pen spring in and the shim(.25) under the area in the pic. . I have though about just leaving the original Savage-Stevens marked scope on it for now. It has a few scratches but was made in Japan and seems to be high quality for its day.n I put it in the stock it was very,very hard to tighten down. I had set my bolt guide the way it talked about in the piece. When I had it screwed in the last few threads were very hard to turn. I tried the action and the bolt fell out. After taking it off and cleaning around on the stock with my Dremmel tool I screwed things back. Same thing...the bolt fell out loose. I then noticed where I had bent the sides of the trigger to take the rattle out had cocked the trigger so far to the side it was a tight fit between the trigger housing and the stock. I put a small screw driver in the hole and slowly and carefully pused the group back away to a point it was clearing the hole in the stock well. That was it. Now everything works great.It will not go on safe unless it is cocked though, That is okay because the trigger has less than a pound of pull and is fantastic. I also had bought a new factory mag a Dicks Sports and it was giving a fit ie not wanting to snap in place. I tapped on it emty with the plastic handle of a large screwriver and it works fine.I called the factory and got prices on a new stock. It is $40 and a new trigger group is $15 but they will not sell me an ACCUTRIGGER because it did not come on that model back then.I told the very nice factory lady I would call her back this week. I am going to get a stock,trigger group, and new screws and bolts for everything as well as a bottom triigger plate to cover my rusted one. The barrel and action cleaned up good on thr ole rifle. The bore is in pristine shape. I believe what the guy saaid that he only fired about 10-12 rds. through the gun. I hate to putt $200 in laminated stocks,a $100 trigger and a$400 scope on a rifle I just paid $100 for. It shoots great and I checked it for slam fire and had no problems. I also fired my new .22 afterwards and it felt like the trigger at a 20 pound pull. I am going to leave my trigger in and hold one in case i want to work on my other one and keep everything with an ability to change back to normal. My next rifle I want is a Savage in a .223 varmet set up or a police or target version for 308 . I still love my lil ,odel 64 with the big scope and my .17...I just want to move up to a true self defense/survival-hunting rifle if I ever need it.

Last edited by BIGDAVE54; 10-12-2009 at 04:53 AM.
  #186  
Old 11-19-2009, 08:50 PM
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Nice!!

Hello, everyone.

I did the shim mod to my Mark II F. Everything went like clockwork, and I love the results. In addition to the shims, I also swapped the spring out for a lighter one. Finally, I placed a piece of tubing over the stud that holds down the front of the trigger housing. The sear hits the tubing when the trigger reaches the end of its range of travel, so that it essentially functions like an over-travel stop.

Outstanding!
Kels
  #187  
Old 12-15-2009, 11:50 PM
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I used .025 of shim in the rear. I also used the stock spring but backed out the allen set screw on top of the spring till in didn't compress the spring. A nice 3.4-3.6 #. That's all the farther I'll take a semi hunting rig.
  #188  
Old 02-03-2010, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erikrs301 View Post
It's a 1/4" hex head / allen wrench that you'll need.

Here's what the latest version of the trigger looks like...

where does the shim go in that version, that's the one I have.
  #189  
Old 02-04-2010, 08:15 PM
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If you look closely gitarmac, you can see his shim. Just to the right of the safety. Almost straight up from the red dot. It looks like a thin piece of brass.


I just did this to my Savage and took a round out of the spring and am stunned at the difference.
  #190  
Old 02-17-2010, 10:50 PM
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Trigger Woes

I have an older Mkii pre-accutrigger.

The trigger is very light (to the tune of 10oz or less. It is a very, very crisp, lovely trigger for target shooting, but the barrel is getting cut down, and the stock is being modified to create a "go" bag gun, and 10oz is not a good emergency trigger.

The front end of the trigger assy. has a small metal screw and nut sticking out of it... apparently for some sort of adjustment. anyone have any experience with this trigger varient??

Thanks in advance!
  #191  
Old 03-10-2010, 12:04 AM
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I have access to a laser cutter so I cut my shims so they would fit under the screws and a tab that
would support the trigger housing to help keep from bending the hold down tab. The problem with
putting the shim in front of the screws is when you tighten the screws it bends the housing. I made
a .010" shim for the front screw and cut some for the trigger pin also. I ended up with .025" under
the rear and 2 - .006" shims on the trigger pin.

I changed the size of the trigger pin shims so the OD is larger.








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Last edited by HotRod9mm; 03-10-2010 at 12:07 AM.
  #192  
Old 03-23-2010, 11:12 AM
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Pardon my ignorance, but does this mod apply to the accu trigger models? I read this whole thread (okay, skimmed some) but didn't see anything saying yes or no. Apparently my MKII with the accutrigger is set at 4lbs from the factory. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet and don't have any snapcaps to test the trigger out.
  #193  
Old 03-23-2010, 03:19 PM
oscar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotRod9mm View Post
I have access to a laser cutter so I cut my shims so they would fit under the screws and a tab that
would support the trigger housing to help keep from bending the hold down tab. The problem with
putting the shim in front of the screws is when you tighten the screws it bends the housing. I made
a .010" shim for the front screw and cut some for the trigger pin also. I ended up with .025" under
the rear and 2 - .006" shims on the trigger pin.

I changed the size of the trigger pin shims so the OD is larger.








.
RT should make a kit
  #194  
Old 03-24-2010, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlebr4d View Post
Pardon my ignorance, but does this mod apply to the accu trigger models? I read this whole thread (okay, skimmed some) but didn't see anything saying yes or no. Apparently my MKII with the accutrigger is set at 4lbs from the factory. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet and don't have any snapcaps to test the trigger out.
I read the entire thread and was wondering the same thing. There were no pics or mention of accutrigger models. I went back to the first post and noticed it was started in 2004! Definately before the accutrigger was introduced.

So does this shim trick work on new accutrigger models? Is it beneficial? I have a brand new MKII accutrigger haven't fired it yet.
  #195  
Old 03-24-2010, 01:19 PM
littlebr4d

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiff neck View Post
I read the entire thread and was wondering the same thing. There were no pics or mention of accutrigger models. I went back to the first post and noticed it was started in 2004! Definately before the accutrigger was introduced.

So does this shim trick work on new accutrigger models? Is it beneficial? I have a brand new MKII accutrigger haven't fired it yet.
glad i'm not alone here! I too noticed when this thread started and thought it might be a moot point for us accu-trigger folks... however, according to the owners manual the trigger pull is set to 4lbs from the factory (all the way down).

If that's the case, in order to get down to the 3lbs range we might need a thinner shim than .025, if the non-accutrigger models have a ~7lb pull from the factory and the .025 takes it down to around 3.5lbs. perhaps a .015 would do the trick?
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