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  #16  
Old 03-12-2011, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWPerdue View Post
Here are my two:











The black one has a SWR Spectre on it and the green one has a Thompson Machine Zephyr, although they get used interchangeably.
are those tech sights
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  #17  
Old 03-12-2011, 11:22 AM
Crowcifier666
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On the folder, yes. Looks like the ts200. Might be the 100 though...
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  #18  
Old 03-12-2011, 03:49 PM
BWPerdue
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Those are 200s, but 100s would work just as well.
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2011, 11:31 AM
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how do you like them and they look awsome nice setup
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2011, 04:54 PM
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They work well. I've had them on other, longer 10/22s, also, and was pleased.
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  #21  
Old 03-16-2011, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parshooter View Post
.

Thank you.

It's a factory birch, that I whittled on a bit. Super light and compact, it's a fun little setup for sure.

.
Any thought to posting a brief tutorial on how you did that? Please!
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  #22  
Old 03-16-2011, 11:03 PM
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Any thought to posting a brief tutorial on how you did that? Please!
That was a year or so ago - so bear with me and I'll attempt to describe the process. At the time, I was living away from home and for the most part didn't have access to my garage and main tools. Most all of this was done sitting at a kitchen table.

Went and bought this sander from Home Depot (along with hand saws, cheap dremel, sand paper, etc.). This was the main tool used.


The stock, dowels & 2x2 birch were cut with a precision, pull saw - one of these 2:


After chopping the front end of the stock, I used the sander to grind up into it. The stock was laid on its side and pressed into the belt. See the curve behind the front grip? It matches the curve on the belt sander. The curved area provides a space for your knuckle. Sanding this area also provided a flat surface for the vertical grip.



Once the underside of the front end was flattened out, I glued and clamped a 2x2 piece of birch to the front edge of the stock. HD sells this in different short lengths. It was at least as wide as the stock, and left a bit longer than necessary in order to be shaped while attached.

Once the glue dried overnight, I drilled down through the center of the barrel channel and into the grip. A dowel was driven into the hole, with more glue on it. Think I used a dremel to cut away most of the excess dowel, then smoothed it out with sandpaper.

With this done, it was easy to turn the stock upside down and just sand off and contour the front edges of the grip and stock. The stock and grip were thinned in a bit on either side as well. Think I used a piece of belt sand paper, wrapped around a flat piece of wood, to curve out the back edges of the vertical grip. The thinnest of the sanding spindle rods was used for the finger-grooves in the grip, along with the dremel maybe.

Back to that curved section at the front of the stock: I went back and cut up into this area with chisels and the dremel to provide more thumb-knuckle relief.

Rear grip: This was modeled after an AR grip. The stock was rough-cut through the grip area, both vertically and horizontally. The sander was again used to smooth out a flat surface for the grip.

Glue 2 pieces of the same 2x2 birch together in order to have enough material for the depth of the grip. Traced an AR grip onto the wood, then rough shaped it before attaching. This was then glued to the stock. A dowel was inserted down into this grip as well, for strength. To insert the dowel, I drilled down through the stock from the inside of the receiver area. Excess trimmed away with chisel and dremel.

The exterior of the stock and grip were then sanded to smooth out the joint as much as possible.

A drill press was used for the rear horizontal rod. Just drilled into the back of the stock, then glued the dowel in place. Once the grip and horizontal dowel were in place, I applied Bondo to fill in some of the gaps. May have used a couple of coats, to keep from putting it on too thick which would have led to cracks. Once dry, it was all smoothed out with sandpaper by hand.

The shoulder pad was formed with the sander from a piece of the birch scrap. I drilled a shallow hole in it for the dowel rod, then screwed and glued together.

Tape up the interior receiver area and barrel channel, then paint with textured rattle can.

That's about it. The slope at the rear of the stock provides a surprisingly comfortable cheek rest. This isn't the most robust and rugged design available, but for a home-brew it has held up well during countless range trips over the last year or so.

Just take your time and be patient. Get a clear idea in your head of how you want it to look before you start cutting. It then becomes pretty easy to figure out how to accomplish whatever is needed for a particular step. Give it a try - if you mess up, well, you learned something and there are tons of stocks out there to practice on for version 2.0.
.
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  #23  
Old 03-22-2011, 09:43 AM
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here is my new 10/22 pistol, the form 1 to convert this to an SBR has been signed by the local LEO and will head on its way to the ATF some time this week

its a zimmerman arms carbine receiver
kidd black bolt
kidd black cocking assembly
kidd 10" threaded barrel
kidd 2 stage with a 3oz/6oz trigger
tactical innovations TAC-65

once the form 1 gets back i am planning on a ACE folding stock

i havent decided on what optics it will have




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