Submitted By: JoeCichlid
WARNING: This should only be attempted by someone with an in depth knowledge of the Ruger 10/22 and 10/22 Magnum rifles.
Time from start to finish is about 24 hours but only about 10 to 15 minutes of actual work. The modifications below are not designed to reduce the trigger pull weight, they are only to help get rid of take up in the trigger group.
You will need: The trigger, sear, trigger pin, disconnector, disconnector pin and the disconnector spring. Once you have the parts gathered clean them with rubbing alcohol to insure the paste wax will stay in place.
Rough up the surface of the sear with 80 or 100 grit paper so the JB weld will stick better.
Once the sear is prepped gather the sear, trigger and diconnector.
Apply a thin coat of paste type auto wax to the inside of the trigger, and on sear and disconnector making sure not to get any wax on the surface of the sear where the JB Weld is to be applied. I often use a toothpick to apply the wax as it allows me to be able to get into the trigger itself much easier.
Install the sear into the trigger with the trigger pivot pin. I use all the pins that I would use in the trigger guard itself as that will help cut down on tolerance stacking and extra play in the finished product.
Cover the sear/disconnector spring with more wax and install in place. Once that is done apply a small amount of well-mixed JB Weld, about the size of a split pea, to the sear. It is hard to say just how much it will take to do this because no two are alike.
With the JB Weld in place pivot the sear so that the end with the JB Weld on it is at the bottom of the trigger and install the disconnector and disconnector pivot pin. Once that is done engage the disconnector until you hear it click and reset. At this point you will want to stand the trigger up so that the JB Weld does not run down into the spring. Make sure it is in a place where it will not be disturbed and let cure for 12 to 14 hours.
After 12 to 14 hours have passed drift out the pins and rotate the whole sear/disconnector assembly out of the trigger. This is why you need to use the paste wax as a mold release.
Here is a close up so you can see what the sear and disconnector assembly should look like when removed from the trigger.
Remove the disconnector and spring from the sear, this is what it should look like at this point.
Note: If the JB Weld didn't flow evenly and you see air voids at the edge where the disconnector normally touches the sear you can start over from here. Simply take a razor blade and slip it under the JB Weld and it will come off easily.
Carefully trim off the extra JB Weld from both sides of the sear.
This is the critical area were great care must be taken as the JB Weld is still somewhat soft and can be damaged easily.
Carefully trim off the last of the extra JB Weld, cut it as close to parallel to the back edge of the sear as possible. Remember, if you mess up here you can just cut off the JB Weld with a razor blade and start over.
This is what it should look like at this point. Now let the JB Weld cure another 12 to 24 hours before going on with the next step.
Now that the JB Weld has cured a full 24 hours or more you will need to sand it down PARALLEL to the surface of the sear where it was applied. Using 200 grit paper slowly and carefully sand the JB Weld down parallel to the sear until there is just about 1/16th of an inch, of slightly less, at an angle to the sear.
Note: You sand only the large flat serface of the JB Weld, not the angled part from the tip of the arrow to the end of the sear (in photo below)
After carefully sanding the JB Weld this is what it should look like. Now you are done, reinstall all the parts into your trigger guard and see how it feels. There should be very little to no take up before you feel the sear starting to move across the face of the notch in the hammer.
Good luck and enjoy!