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Disassembling the Henry Lever

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94K views 40 replies 30 participants last post by  marco34palumbo  
4
#1 ·
Are there instructions for disassembling the Henry Levers available on line somewhere? I've tried searching but haven't had luck yet.

Does anyone know how to remove the feed tube? It looks as though there might be a retaining pin in the receiver but I'm reluctant to remove it until I have more information.

Thanks much!
 
O
#4 ·
Keepandbeararms:

Below is a copy of disassembly instructions that I copied from a thread in Rimfire sometime back. I can't vouch for it's accuracy so move slowly and carefully. I have six Henrys now and have never had occasion to tear one down. The furthest that I have ever gone down that road was to remove the receiver cover on my Henry pump in order to dislodge a jammed bullet. According to Henry, the rifles shouldn't need to be torn down and quite frankly, I tend to agree with them.

Good luck.

Old Blue
_____________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________


Henry Lever Tune Up and Repair.
Here is the diagram in case you do not have your manual handy. Thanks to BigLoop22 for the diagram!
Check and ensure your rifle is unloaded.
During disassembly pay attention to where things are, you will need to put them back in the same manner.
Ok, now before getting started: Check and ensure your rifle is unloaded!!
1) Take of the Front Sight Hood (33).
2) Unscrew the Barrel Band Screw (30) and slide up and off of the barrel/mag tube assembly and then gently pull the Forend (52) forward and off.
3) Unscrew the Stock Screw (50) and gently pull the Buttstock assembly down and off.
4) Unscrew all 4 Cover screws (42) and carefully work the receiver (01) up, back and off of the Carrier Axle.
5) If the Bolt (35) did not come off with the cover, remove it now by working the lever all the way down and leave it down. Even if the bolt is off already work the lever down anyhow to ensure the hammer is locked back and leave the lever down.
6) Remove Lever Pin (15) and carefully work out lever (14)
7) While holding the Lock Bar (16) in place, remove Locking Bar pin (18), then remove Lock Bar (16) and Locking Bar Spring (17).
8) While holding Hammer (21) press trigger (19) and slowly allow hammer to go as far forward as possible.
9) Slide up and remove Hammer Guide (23) and Hammer Spring (24)
10) Remove Hammer Pin (22) and then gently slide out the Hammer (21)
11) Remove Trigger pin, Trigger (19) and Trigger Spring (20)
-Now focus on the Bolt-
A) At this point with the bolt you can remove the pins to clean or replace the extractor and ejector as well as their respective springs.
B) At this point I removed all the pins and polished everything before reassembling the bolt.
Now that everything is completely apart polish all of the following pieces until they are shiny (do not change the angles though):
- entire bolt (you only have to do the parts of the bolt that make contact with the Carrier Axle, but I do the whole thing because it looks cool shiny)
- the portions of the carrier axle that the bolt rides on.
- the portion of the receiver which the bolt (may) contact when sliding through.
- the portions of the lever that (may) contact other parts.
- the portions of the lever which rotate on other metal.
- the portions of the trigger which rotate on other metal.
- the portions of trigger that engage with the hammer.
- the hammer guide ball.
- the portions of the hammer which make contact with the trigger (I also reduced this engagement just a teeny bit, but I don’t recommend that if this is your first time doing things like this).
I have done the following with 100% success on 4 Henry's now:
A) reduce the locking bar spring by 1.5 coils and stretched back out to correct size. (I used a set of outside calipers, I set them to correct size when the spring was stock).
B) reduced the trigger return spring by 3.5 coils and then stretched it back out to the correct size.
Lightly lube all components and then re-assemble by doing steps 1 through 11 in the opposite order.
Your lever should now be as smooth as silk and your trigger should be about a crisp 1lb
I should probably write up all the minor issues I have had with it over the time it took to get to where it is, it might be useful for someone or other... so let's see...
1)Front site hood went Bye Bye - I always lose these things, I have a bunch of Henry's and now any that get scoped I take the hood off and save it so I actually have some that way.
2) Around 70K rounds (wild guess there) Spring 17 got weak and the lever did not lock in the closed mode any more - I am sure this is due to the mod I make to the spring rather than any design flaw, but when you get the lever as smooth as mine is the huge click to lock in place is out of place, so I make the mod. (I will update my page with this I guess)
3) The receiver of this is not blued, glossy black paint from a model shop works perfect to fix it right back up though when it gets too scratched- and it will - however I really like my textured paint I used which is hard as a rock, wish I still had the recipe I used to make that paint I tried to make something like the touch up paint for my large gun safe, maybe I will experiment with that next.
4) Twice I tried an idea I had and modified the carrier/carrier group, the best I can say after my expirements is: "don't do that" :) I buggered it both times.
Well, enough talk, I'm going shooting :)
Alright Then.

Updated on ... January 29, 2005
 
#26 ·
Old Blue said:
Keepandbeararms:

Below is a copy of disassembly instructions that I copied from a thread in Rimfire sometime back. I can't vouch for it's accuracy so move slowly and carefully. I have six Henrys now and have never had occasion to tear one down. The furthest that I have ever gone down that road was to remove the receiver cover on my Henry pump in order to dislodge a jammed bullet. According to Henry, the rifles shouldn't need to be torn down and quite frankly, I tend to agree with them.

Good luck.

Old Blue
_____________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________

Henry Lever Tune Up and Repair.
Here is the diagram in case you do not have your manual handy. Thanks to BigLoop22 for the diagram!
Check and ensure your rifle is unloaded.
During disassembly pay attention to where things are, you will need to put them back in the same manner.
Ok, now before getting started: Check and ensure your rifle is unloaded!!
1) Take of the Front Sight Hood (33).
2) Unscrew the Barrel Band Screw (30) and slide up and off of the barrel/mag tube assembly and then gently pull the Forend (52) forward and off.
3) Unscrew the Stock Screw (50) and gently pull the Buttstock assembly down and off.
4) Unscrew all 4 Cover screws (42) and carefully work the receiver (01) up, back and off of the Carrier Axle.
5) If the Bolt (35) did not come off with the cover, remove it now by working the lever all the way down and leave it down. Even if the bolt is off already work the lever down anyhow to ensure the hammer is locked back and leave the lever down.
6) Remove Lever Pin (15) and carefully work out lever (14)
7) While holding the Lock Bar (16) in place, remove Locking Bar pin (18), then remove Lock Bar (16) and Locking Bar Spring (17).
8) While holding Hammer (21) press trigger (19) and slowly allow hammer to go as far forward as possible.
9) Slide up and remove Hammer Guide (23) and Hammer Spring (24)
10) Remove Hammer Pin (22) and then gently slide out the Hammer (21)
11) Remove Trigger pin, Trigger (19) and Trigger Spring (20)
-Now focus on the Bolt-
A) At this point with the bolt you can remove the pins to clean or replace the extractor and ejector as well as their respective springs.
B) At this point I removed all the pins and polished everything before reassembling the bolt.
Now that everything is completely apart polish all of the following pieces until they are shiny (do not change the angles though):
- entire bolt (you only have to do the parts of the bolt that make contact with the Carrier Axle, but I do the whole thing because it looks cool shiny)
- the portions of the carrier axle that the bolt rides on.
- the portion of the receiver which the bolt (may) contact when sliding through.
- the portions of the lever that (may) contact other parts.
- the portions of the lever which rotate on other metal.
- the portions of the trigger which rotate on other metal.
- the portions of trigger that engage with the hammer.
- the hammer guide ball.
- the portions of the hammer which make contact with the trigger (I also reduced this engagement just a teeny bit, but I don't recommend that if this is your first time doing things like this).
I have done the following with 100% success on 4 Henry's now:
A) reduce the locking bar spring by 1.5 coils and stretched back out to correct size. (I used a set of outside calipers, I set them to correct size when the spring was stock).
B) reduced the trigger return spring by 3.5 coils and then stretched it back out to the correct size.
Lightly lube all components and then re-assemble by doing steps 1 through 11 in the opposite order.
Your lever should now be as smooth as silk and your trigger should be about a crisp 1lb
I should probably write up all the minor issues I have had with it over the time it took to get to where it is, it might be useful for someone or other... so let's see...
1)Front site hood went Bye Bye - I always lose these things, I have a bunch of Henry's and now any that get scoped I take the hood off and save it so I actually have some that way.
2) Around 70K rounds (wild guess there) Spring 17 got weak and the lever did not lock in the closed mode any more - I am sure this is due to the mod I make to the spring rather than any design flaw, but when you get the lever as smooth as mine is the huge click to lock in place is out of place, so I make the mod. (I will update my page with this I guess)
3) The receiver of this is not blued, glossy black paint from a model shop works perfect to fix it right back up though when it gets too scratched- and it will - however I really like my textured paint I used which is hard as a rock, wish I still had the recipe I used to make that paint I tried to make something like the touch up paint for my large gun safe, maybe I will experiment with that next.
4) Twice I tried an idea I had and modified the carrier/carrier group, the best I can say after my expirements is: "don't do that" :) I buggered it both times.
Well, enough talk, I'm going shooting :)
Alright Then.

Updated on ... January 29, 2005
Click to expand...
I think this info should be taken down. You cannot cut a spring and then stretch it back to original length. Even the OP has not used this info... he just posted it.
 
#5 · (Edited)
...and, here is that diagram:

Image


CAUTION:

WATCH OUT FOR TINY SPRING #17. It is easily lost. Spring #17 pushes up on the locking bar, and really needs to be in the rifle. If you forget to put tiny spring #17 back in the rifle, then the lever will not stay closed, and the gun may NOT be safe to fire.

I believe the above-posted instructions are from "FuggerNutter", who used to have a Web page on his Henry. I do NOT need to tweak my Henry, but some may find that a useful procedure.

I believe that the barrel is pinned to the receiver, as well as the magazine is pinned in place.

This diagram may help, too:

Image


Be aware that the lever has a curved cam near its top, but below the lever tip. The cam engages the locking bar, and pulls it down, when you swing the lever to its "down", or open, position. This cam may give you a minor tantrum, as you try to remove the lever. Also, the tip of the lever is what pushes the breechbolt back-and-forth. The breechbolt just rests on top of the receiver, and it rides on rails in the underside of the receiver cover.

Here is the image, without labels:

Image


Big Loop22
 
O
#6 ·
Big Loop:

Not only are you sort of the resident Henry expert, you quite obviously have the ability to produce some impressive graphics.

I have absolutely no idea how you go about creating graphics like the ones you have included in this thread but I'm glad that you do and that you're willing to share them with the rest of us.

Thanks.

Old Blue
 
4
#7 ·
Thanks Big Loop

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your informative post. I've basically copied and pasted the information you provided to a .PDF file and now have that saved. I'll e-mail a copy to anyone who'll provide an address.

I bought this H001 from a local pawn shop. Both the stock and forend have the number 02002 stamped on them so I assume this was probably made in 2002.

The rifle seems mechanically sound but was showing some mistreatment or lack of care. The paint on the reciever cover was bably chipped. The bluing on the barrel and feedtube was blotched and had surface scratches. And the stock looked as though someone had attempted to spray some cheap clear coat of some kind on it. And finally the front sight was mangled.

And it was one of the dirtiest guns I've ever seen. It looked as though the previous owner had never cleaned it but perhaps squirted a little more gun oil into the works periodically. That had congeled and turned into a paste. And there were actually 4 dead insects that fell out of it when I removed the receiver cover.

I've stripped the stock and forend down to bare wood. Fortunately the wood is sound with no dings or pits. I've now applied about 6 coats of linseed oil and the wood is VERY attractive. I'll apply about 10 more coats over the next few days. Then I'll hand buff it out and apply some paste wax as sealer.

I've also stripped the receiver cover down to bare metal. I've got some Wheeler Engineering Cerama Coating on the way and will use that to finish the receiver cover.

I've also stripped the barrel and feedtube or outer tube to bare metal and have some Brownells Oxpho Blue coming to take care of that.

I'm going to need to replace the front sight and barrel band. I'd prefer to substitute metal for the plastic if such are available from Henry, (or elsewhere).

The stock sights aren't an immediate issue as the rifle came with a BSA R 3-7X20 scope.

I think I'm going to keep the GB that I bought last week as pristine as possible and eventually pass it to one of my grandsons. I'll use this H001 for play purposes.

Thanks again for your help. And you were right: I did come very close to losing the locking bar spring before I read your post.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Old Blue, others,

Thank you.

I need to explain a few things to everyone. There are some Henry owners who have dug deeper into their rifles than I have. "Fugger Nutter" is one of them, and he really shot the snot out of his, to the tune of ten-thousand rounds-plus. My Henry is still going strong after more than 5,500 rounds. It really irks me when someone, out of ignorance, or in a troll-like manner, states that modern Henry rifles are made of "pot metal" & implies this equals "Saturday Night Special" status. Repetedly, "cheap", "junk", and "poor quality" are the thoughts engendered by these people. Nothing could be further from the truth, and some of the nay-sayers just do not concern themselves with the truth & continue to preach their errors.

The graphics that I create are usually based on an existing picture, or diagram. The exploded view of the Henry rifles is from around early 2004. It is, essentially, the stock diagram that came with my Henry H001L. I just embellished it, and rearranged the Henry logo, using a similar font for the words "HENRY REPEATING ARMS COMPANY", and placing the Henry shooter on the right side of the words, instead of the customary left side. You should note that I did not correct a couple of errors in the listing of parts: #01 & #02 should be reversed. #02 is actually the receiver, #01 is the cover. #20 sure looks like the trigger pin, but is labeled "trigger spring". I see nothing that looks like a trigger spring in that diagram. Sight #31 is clearly visible, and properly labeled. What is amiss is that the front sight screw is nowhere to be found, and a front sight retaing pin is shown as "#10", right beside the drawing of the front sight. You will also note that, to the left of the receiver, there is shown a couple of screws that are numbered "#10". The description correctly identifies them as "Carrier Screw". There are a few more foibles in that illustration, too. Now, here is some trivia: the Henry diagram, that I have been explaining, is actually a drawing of the earlier rifles that were produced by Ithaca, Erma, and, I believe, Iver-Johnson. The tell-tale sign is the front sight/ mag tube pin in the diagram. Modern Henrys don't have that pin.;)

It should be noted that the late, great Mr. Paul Manos, late of Henry Repating Arms Company, told me that they had updated the exploded view drawing. However, they did not fix all of the little anomolies of the original diagram.

The picture of the hand holding the breechbolt is part of an on-line gun review. I swiped the photo for my personal use, but found it useful for illustration for this topic. I increased the size of the picture, then labled it with Microsoft Paint. Paint is not a perfect program, and it gives me fits, sometimes.:mad: ...but, a few of its features are downright handy for some simple labeling! Yes, the results are not refined, but they make the point.:D

I do not mind sharing. I do not know everything about these rifles, and I am willing to learn more about them. I just do not like the mentallity of some of the people who give us their "review" in a hit-and-run, matter-of-fact way, but really don't care about Henry rifles, or the truth.
 
O
#9 ·
Henry dissassmbly

Big Loop and others:

Big Loop;

The tear down procedure that I posted earlier was, as I can best remember, originally posted by Fugger Nutter.

My first Henry found it's way home about five years ago. I have no idea how many rounds have gone through it. The important thing is that anytime I wanted to use it, it was there and ready to be used. It was and still is more accurate than I am so I have no complaints about it. As I mentioned earlier, for some obscure reason, I now own six Henrys. I have been diagnosed with terminal Henryitus. Not a bad way to go I guess.

As far as the plastic sight is concerned, I don't really see what all the fuss is about. It's plastic. So what? It sits up there on the front of the barrel and does what it's supposed to do with no muss and no fuss. It doesn't rust or corrode. It just simply sits there and provides a visual reference and locates and secures the magazine which is what it's supposed to do.

Of the six Henrys that I own, the only problem that I have ever had was a jammed bullet in my H003 Pump gun that required the removal of the receiver cover in order to get it dislodged. This was no big deal. I think I spent about half an hour or so working on it and then took it back out and spent the rest of the afternoon shooting it. It would seem to me that the Henrys are not only fun to use and reliable, they are also quick and easy to repair.

I could go on and on here but I think that I will just leave it at this. I've bought and paid for six Henrys and as far as I'm concerned, I've more than received fair value for the money spent. They are certainly not cheap junk nor are they in any way related to Saturday Night Specials.

I've enjoyed using these rifles over the years that I've owned them and I'm looking forward to enjoying them for a lot of years to come.

Old Blue
 
#39 · (Edited)
Old Blue said:
Big Loop and others:

Big Loop;

The tear down procedure that I posted earlier was, as I can best remember, originally posted by Fugger Nutter.

My first Henry found it's way home about five years ago. I have no idea how many rounds have gone through it. The important thing is that anytime I wanted to use it, it was there and ready to be used. It was and still is more accurate than I am so I have no complaints about it. As I mentioned earlier, for some obscure reason, I now own six Henrys. I have been diagnosed with terminal Henryitus. Not a bad way to go I guess.

As far as the plastic sight is concerned, I don't really see what all the fuss is about. It's plastic. So what? It sits up there on the front of the barrel and does what it's supposed to do with no muss and no fuss. It doesn't rust or corrode. It just simply sits there and provides a visual reference and locates and secures the magazine which is what it's supposed to do.

Of the six Henrys that I own, the only problem that I have ever had was a jammed bullet in my H003 Pump gun that required the removal of the receiver cover in order to get it dislodged. This was no big deal. I think I spent about half an hour or so working on it and then took it back out and spent the rest of the afternoon shooting it. It would seem to me that the Henrys are not only fun to use and reliable, they are also quick and easy to repair.

I could go on and on here but I think that I will just leave it at this. I've bought and paid for six Henrys and as far as I'm concerned, I've more than received fair value for the money spent. They are certainly not cheap junk nor are they in any way related to Saturday Night Specials.

I've enjoyed using these rifles over the years that I've owned them and I'm looking forward to enjoying them for a lot of years to come.

Old Blue
Click to expand...
Old Blue, you are not alone with contracting the disease " Henryitus " :bthumb:

I now own 2 Henrys, a H006 .44 Magnum Big Boy and a H004M .22 Magnum Golden Boy. The sickness, if you will, has bitten me badly.

I intend to buy the H010B 45-70 brass model as well as the H011B original 1860
model as soon as I can.

You are so correct. Once any firearm lover actually uses or puts his hands on a Henry more times than not, it's all over but the crying. :D

As a Vietnam combat veteran and one who knows a little about firearms I have to say that one would be hard pressed to find better lever guns by anyone.
Being a big fan of lever guns I have shot or owned many different brands. Winchester, Marlin, Rossi, Uberti, so on and so on. While they are also pretty good weapons, my Henry's are in my opinion, the best out there. Not to mention the best looking. Also unlike some of the others they are made right here in the USA by American workers with every single part down to the last screw obtained right here as well. THAT is what will make this great country of ours great again if every business owner would do what Anthony Imperato does and not sell us out by trying to make bigger profits using cheaper labor and imported parts which
is another reason I am a devoted Henry owner.

So I am happy to have this wonderful disease... Henryitus
 
C
#10 ·
I tore down my Henry to strip the blue finish off and leave it in the white. I wrote down the steps as I took it apart, so that I could reassemble it. I've got them on a file on my home PC and will try to remember to attach them. I seem to remember that the company's parts diagram had one or two other parts mislabled (besides the receiver/cover), but can't remember which.

I also bought the metal barrel band and front sight replacements and stripped them down to aluminum as well. The rifle looks really cool with the silver against that gorgeous wood and blued handle/trigger/and hammer. The aluminum is acquiring a nice antique patena as it oxidizes.

If you do want to strip your gun down to the white, be aware that Stripeeze gel works great on the receiver cover and barrel bands, but the receiver does not strip well and the blue paint had to be sanded off with fine grit sandpaper and polished.
 
4
#11 ·
What does the metal front sight look like on the H001? Is it just like the plastic sight in appearance?

You're right that the bare metal is attractive. I used Birchwood Casey Blue & Rust Remover to strip the barrel. And I used regular paint remover to strip the receiver cover. I used 0000 steel wool and 800 grit sandpaper to smooth the surface in both cases. I've got some Wheeler Engineering Cerama Coat coming which I'll use to cover the barrel, feeder tube, recevier cover, and lever with. That should leave a very nice flat black finish that , one baked, will be super tough.

I stripped the stock and foreend and applied 15 coats of hand rubbed Linseed Oil and have begun applying multiple coats of paste wax over that with hand buffing between each coat. That is creating a really beautiful finish on the stock. It now has a low luster sheen on it. This should be weather resistant and very easy to maintain. Just an occasional buffing to bring back the sheen.
 
2
#12 · (Edited)
BigLoop22 said:
I need to explain a few things to everyone. There are some Henry owners who have dug deeper into their rifles than I have. "Fugger Nutter" is one of them, and he really shot the snot out of his, to the tune of ten-thousand rounds-plus. My Henry is still going strong after more than 5,500 rounds. It really irks me when someone, out of ignorance, or in a troll-like manner, states that modern Henry rifles are made of "pot metal" & implies this equals "Saturday Night Special" status. Repetedly, "cheap", "junk", and "poor quality" are the thoughts engendered by these people. Nothing could be further from the truth, and some of the nay-sayers just do not concern themselves with the truth & continue to preach their errors.
Click to expand...
Well stated, BigLoop. I was at a new gun store in my area last month, and they had an old Ithaca lever that was well used, but still a shooter. I think it was the model 42. Can't remember exactly. I noticed that it, too, had an alloy receiver, and the action was even smoother than the Henry due to many rounds being fired over many years. The action looked identical to the Henry which I'm told they have the patent for.

This thing was in well used, and I mean WELL used condition. I noticed that it's "pot metal" receiver was still intact, and very solid. It didn't blow up after all those years so I've got full confidence in my GB. Especially since my last trip to the range with it.

I'm a hard core traditionalist when it comes to guns, and demand my guns be made of steel and not alloy. Henry changed that once I got a chance to really get out and appreciate what a fine rifle that GB really is.

If I want a utility gun, I'll take a H001 over the ubiquitous alloy receiver Ruger 10/22 any day. Not that the Ruger is a bad gun, it's darn good one. I know; I had one. But give Henry a chance, and it'll shoot rings around it. Many trolls are just that. Every time they make a negative comment about Henry out of ignorance or just plain bias it spotlights there intentions.

My next Henry is going to be an H001T in 22 mag. I'm going to give that to my newest Granddaughter, she's 1 1/2, and my oldest Granddaughter, she's 2 1/2 is going to get my GB as soon as their both old enough to accept the responsibility. I'm handing down Henry's because there still made in America, and they simply do what they were designed to do very, very well.
 
4
#14 ·
Image


I'd discussed the Henrys I'd recently purchased in this thread before. On top is a "used" Golden Boy that I purchased from Gunbroker. The seller enclosed the receipt and it had been purchased new in 8/06. It is virtually impossible to tell it from new.

In the center is my little CCW. A Kel Tec P32 in Hard Chrome with an ArmaLaser. And that is my KD pocket holster.

On the bottom is a little H001 I purchased last week. It was only $155 OTD including the scope but was in sad shape. Since then I've refinished the stock with Linseed oil and paste wax. I've also put Wheeler Engineering Cerama Coating on all exposed metal parts except the Trigger, Hammer, FeedTube, and Rear Sight. I'm really pleased with the way this one turned out.

Image


The Cerama Coating gave the gun a slight texture and has a very low-level sheen to it once it had been buffed and oiled. It is a little time consuming to apply. After preparing the surface you need to apply three thin coats waiting thirty minutes between each coat and the baking the finish at 350 degrrs for one hour.

The coating seems to be very tough. I was afraid I'd chip it when I drove my rear sight back into the dovetail but everything came out well.
 
3
#15 ·
Henry Varmit Express

I'm a new member of the forum and I live in Canada. I just want to say hello to all the other members. My problem is Iown this gun and it is brand new but it will not chamber a round once the mag is loaded with .17 HMR AMMO. If I cycle the lever 5-10 times somtimes it will chamber a round but most times no. Does anyone know what could be wrong with my rifle?I would love any help I could get, Thanks very much, George.
 
#16 ·
magnumair said:
I'm a new member of the forum and I live in Canada. I just want to say hello to all the other members. My problem is Iown this gun and it is brand new but it will not chamber a round once the mag is loaded with .17 HMR AMMO. If I cycle the lever 5-10 times somtimes it will chamber a round but most times no. Does anyone know what could be wrong with my rifle?I would love any help I could get, Thanks very much, George.
Click to expand...
Give Henry a call or email themy. They are usually VERY fast getting back to you. You may also want to contact the dealer where you bought it or SIR (the main Canadian importer).
 
#19 ·
Ladies & gentlemen,

Just to give my 2 pennies, and no offense meant to anyone, but if I have to clean a gun from the muzzle, then that's the way that I do it. If I can do a better job of cleaning a gun from the breech end, then that is included in my cleaning regimen. While I understand the issue of keeping the muzzle crown pristeen, I have no fear of cleaning only from that end. I do not beat up myself for cleaning any gun from the muzzle only. I prefer that a gun can be easily disassembled, so that it can be cleaned from all angles. If I can get out the breechbolt on my boltgun, then I add cleaning from the breech to my operation of cleaning from the muzzle. (Insert gasps of horror, here.:eek:)

...and, I'll give you another one of my deep, dark, dirty secrets: I break in a barrel on a new rifle by shooting it, exactly the way that I shoot all of my guns, regardless of age, or rounds through the barrel. (Insert shouts for crucifixion, here. :eek:;):))

BigLoop22
 
#25 ·
I used this thread and a previous YouTube video I watched a while back to assist me in disassembling my H001L far enough to give it a 1st cleaning. I have 100 rounds through it and I figured it was time to clean. Although many feel it is best to do this prior to 1st firing it I didn't do that. I see both sides of cleaning prior to firing or waiting to clean it after a few rounds. Anyway, I just finished and I am amazed how much more smooth the action is after a little lube.

Thanks RCF
 
T
#34 · (Edited)
Hey,

I just disassembled my henry h001tm using the guide video they had on their website for h001. It's extremely helpfull, only question mark i had is that the carrier feed lever, which is different in design that the one in the video. Also the carrier feed lever stud seems to be missing. I suppose its normal, but sure hope i can but it back together. In this model the carrier feed lever is connected to the lever.

Image


Image


But anyways, excellent video from henry's! Wouldn't had dared to start disassembly without it. :bthumb:

Btw... Can i put the gun back together without the bolt? I don't own a gun safe yet and i'm required to keep an essential part (i.e. the bolt) in different place.

edit: well finally got it back together. :bthumb: It was bit different than the h001, as i earlier said, the carrier feed lever was different and the stud was missing. It was a bit of a pain in the a** getting it back together. I needed to keep pressure on the carrier spring and tube so i could attach it to the lever and the lever to the frame. Otherwise it was about the same as in the video.

Does anyone have a good trick keeping the spring down while installing feed lever to the lever and frame.

The assembly doesn't seem to mind that the bolt is missing... Do i risk rusting it if i keep it in an airtight plast bag?
 
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