While searching the threads earlier I was intrigued by using a spring under the hammer pin and over the ejector pin and resting on the trigger. I noticed cletus hungwell(Thanks for the idea) mentioned using a bobby pin. I decided to try using this idea to reduce the trigger on my "Project 10/22". The whole exercise is to try to ring out as much accuracy using very little money and ease for the home tinkerer.
It took me about 3 hours to work out how it will work.
Here are some pics with directions:
I started out by going to a local Dollar general store and buying a 50 pack of 2" bobby pins. I looked at Walmart but I felt their's were to weak.
I cut the wavy portion of the bobby pin about 1/4" from the "U"( left sde in the pic). This provides a "hook" for the bobby pin to hang on the extractor pin/ bolt hold open pin. I then bent a small "U" at the other end and polished it slightly, making sure not to heat it up( I did get one to hot and it wasn't as springy). I did not cut any off the bobby pin on the straight side and it fits perfectly after making a small "U".
Here is a pic of the bobby pin:
To install dissassemble the trigger group down far enough to remove the factory trigger return spring and plunger behind the trigger then assemble the trigger group as normal with everything except the hammer.
Next take the big hooked portion of the bobby pin (the end to the left in the picture) and hook it over the pin for the ejector/ bolt hold open (kind of close the end before this so it stays in place on the pin). The other end should rest on the rear part of the trigger.
Here is a pic of the bobby pin resting on the trigger:
Once the bobby pin is in place install the hammer, bolt hold open spring and the hammer pin as normal, the spring for the bolt hold open will be on top of the bobby pin. This will push down on the bobby pin and thus applying pressure to the rear of the trigger.
Here is a pic:
Next you will have to push the ejector pin slightly from left to right to allow the other end of the bolt hold open spring to be put under it then push the pin back to the left.
Here is a pic of the hammer and bolt hold open spring installed:
And another pic of the installed bobby pin on the trigger:
This is completely installed at this point. I tried many different configurations and found the closer to the rear the light the trigger but it will not reliably reset sear with the factory sear spring. The closer to the pivot pin for the trigger the heavier it is. At its heaviest it is still lighter than the lightest I could get the factory trigger return spring and be safe.
I have tried dropping the rifle numerous time as well we slamming it on the floor hard enough to cause the bolt to go back with no accidental hammer falls. I have not fired it yet but have over 100 dry firings so far and it resets the trigger every time. The safety still works as before.
The biggest advantage is that all that is required is a $1 pack of bobby pins and a way to cut and bend them. No need to drill your trigger or cut a groove. If you mess a bobby pin up just do another. By the time I got done I was able to cut a new one and get it installed in about 4-5 minutes.
I will get it out in the am and try some groups to see if it has improved them any.
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated and again thanks to Cletus Hungwell for a great idea.