Making a bedding pillar for the 10/22 is a piece of cake for a machinist. The rest of us seem to spend an inordinate amount of time looking for some little doo-dad that can be substituted with very little effort for a bedding pillar.
The flanged washer in the VQ bedding system is tempting but does not really qualify as a pillar since it does not prevent the takedown screw from compressing the wooden stock. I think that most will concede that by definition a pillar must surround the takedown screw and support the action while providing an anchor for the head of the screw and preventing any possible compression of the stock.
I've tried various schemes using a short piece of lamp ferrule, with and without a washer epoxied into the bottom of the inletting. They worked, but have always left me looking for a more eloquent solution.
If you have access to a drill press and a few basic tools you can make your own flanged pillar from a readily available brass fitting. The total cost of the piece in this illustration was $2.30. The total time required to make the pillar was about 20 minutes including the time required to take a few pictures of the process.
This picture shows the finished flanged pillar compared to the VQ bedding washer.
While a one piece pillar might be the ultimate part, producing one really is much more involved and might be better left to a machinist since it requires providing a ledge inside the fitting for the takedown screw head to rest upon.
This pillar utilizes the existing escutcheon to retain the head of the takedown screw. I believe it will function as well as a similar one piece unit.
Here is a picture of the original brass fitting. I found it at The Home Depot. The brass fitting section is usually located at the back of the store, and not in the normal hardware section. Other styles of fitting might also work. Just be sure that the small end is for 3/8" barb fitting and that the flats are at least 3/4" across.
Get started by cutting off the threaded portion with a hacksaw.
Chuck the fitting up so that it can be turned and the flange can be shaped by holding a file against it. Fortunately brass is rather soft and can be easily worked with many woodworking tools. I removed the bulk of material with a wood file, and then switched to a regular metal cutting file for the last few thousands to give a smoother finish. This goes pretty fast. I had decided beforehand that I would countersink the flange into the floor of the inletting so I elected to leave it at .100" thick. The flange must be cut much thinner if you want to install it on top of the inletting without countersinking, ala VQ bedding washer. The VQ seems to be about .030" thick and raises the action in the stock an equal amount when installed.
Be careful to hold the file flat against the cut in order to assure a surface that is 90 degrees to the axis of rotation. I mounted the piece in a small 3 jaw chuck on a wood lathe for ease of picture taking, but a drill press with a half inch chuck would work equally well...you will just be working vertically rather than horizontally as shown in this picture.
If you have selected a hex fitting such as the one here, you will need to file it round. This one was 13/16" across the flats. I filed it down to 3/4" diameter since that is the size of the forstner bit I planned to use for the installation into the stock. If you plan to greatly reduce the thickness of the flange, you should probably cut it into round first.
The finished pillar ready to be cut to length and installed.