Using stock parts is it possible to get a 1 /14 - 1 1/2 trigger pull? All parts have been polished or stoned. I have an extra power hammer spring for reliable strikes.
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art mcintosh
Yes, it's possible.....using Cletus's trigger return modification and using the hammer grinding techniques posted in this forum can make this possible.
When getting below 2 lbs, you MUST know how to test for safe operation, and understand how the mechanisms work.
Also, there is a majority of folks that reccommend that a sub 2lb trigger not be used for a field gun, and be used only for a bench or target gun, used under the safest of environments.
Thomas Zinn
When getting below 2 lbs, you MUST know how to test for safe operation, and understand how the mechanisms work.
Also, there is a majority of folks that reccommend that a sub 2lb trigger not be used for a field gun, and be used only for a bench or target gun, used under the safest of environments.
Thomas Zinn
"I polished everything in the trigger group and then used the pictures posted here to alter the angle of the lip on the hammer,take off a tiny amount and reinstall,repeat until you get what you want,mine is just under 2 pounds and feels GREAT!" Nonya, Just to build on what your saying, I would take it one step further, take a off a tiny amount and reinstall, "And take it outside and shoot it". The reason I say this, is that I took a little off my hammer, and reinstalled it. Did this routine several times until I thought I had it perfect! Checked the trigger pull and it was just slightly under 2.5 lbs. Did the bump test and it passed in flying colors. The next morning I took it out and shot it. It would do 2 and 3 round bursts. Because of this exercise, I learned one thing, there is a difference between cycling the action by hand to check your trigger verus actually firing it.
Mike
Mike
yep, it's very doable, and then some.....
however, it does involves changin some things up so that everything relevent is pushed to it's very limit of performance and safety...... and, as no one is presenting this as "professional" advice, once you start, all liability for your actions is on you....
these aren't lawyer proof, anyone that can read can drop them in, one part fits all type mods..... you are fine tuning the design, w/ the limits of your particular group's tolerences, to way beyond what bill ruger and his engineers and lawyers thought proper for general distribution, or designed the system to do.....
so, common sense and enough mechanical ability to be able to recognize and address a safety problem should it occur are definately required....
i would highly recomend you be extremely familiar with what/how/why every feature of every part in the group does, and how they interface to effect things....
personaly, i'd never take my "match" trigger into the field.... i only use it on the bench, and only load it when it's pointing into the backstop, and unload anytime i'm not behind it ready to shoot...... it's just fine for that...
my "field" group is alot safer.... stock depth of engagement of sear/hammer, but everything else is done.... also, i use a stronger trigger return spring in it....it has never had a single case of malfunction from my mods...none... i also fitted the safety for more reliable functioning.... my sear doesn't move when the safety is on!!!...and since i removed most all the slack at the hammer pin, it would take a housing failure to cause a malfunction
another option for folks is to print a copy of these tips and tricks, like these and that great one on the jb weld trick, and take them and the gun to your friendly local gunsmith to do the work....
however, it does involves changin some things up so that everything relevent is pushed to it's very limit of performance and safety...... and, as no one is presenting this as "professional" advice, once you start, all liability for your actions is on you....
these aren't lawyer proof, anyone that can read can drop them in, one part fits all type mods..... you are fine tuning the design, w/ the limits of your particular group's tolerences, to way beyond what bill ruger and his engineers and lawyers thought proper for general distribution, or designed the system to do.....
so, common sense and enough mechanical ability to be able to recognize and address a safety problem should it occur are definately required....
i would highly recomend you be extremely familiar with what/how/why every feature of every part in the group does, and how they interface to effect things....
personaly, i'd never take my "match" trigger into the field.... i only use it on the bench, and only load it when it's pointing into the backstop, and unload anytime i'm not behind it ready to shoot...... it's just fine for that...
my "field" group is alot safer.... stock depth of engagement of sear/hammer, but everything else is done.... also, i use a stronger trigger return spring in it....it has never had a single case of malfunction from my mods...none... i also fitted the safety for more reliable functioning.... my sear doesn't move when the safety is on!!!...and since i removed most all the slack at the hammer pin, it would take a housing failure to cause a malfunction
another option for folks is to print a copy of these tips and tricks, like these and that great one on the jb weld trick, and take them and the gun to your friendly local gunsmith to do the work....
that's the exact reason i prefer the set screw over cutting the radius of the hammer od to reduce engagement.... i've had a group runnin just fine w/ subsonics, but start slippin w/ velocitors.... it's real handy to be able to fix that w/ an screwdriver and allen wrench w/o replacin or peening the hammer....Bruggy said:"I polished everything in the trigger group and then used the pictures posted here to alter the angle of the lip on the hammer,take off a tiny amount and reinstall,repeat until you get what you want,mine is just under 2 pounds and feels GREAT!" Nonya, Just to build on what your saying, I would take it one step further, take a off a tiny amount and reinstall, "And take it outside and shoot it". The reason I say this, is that I took a little off my hammer, and reinstalled it. Did this routine several times until I thought I had it perfect! Checked the trigger pull and it was just slightly under 2.5 lbs. Did the bump test and it passed in flying colors. The next morning I took it out and shot it. It would do 2 and 3 round bursts. Because of this exercise, I learned one thing, there is a difference between cycling the action by hand to check your trigger verus actually firing it.
Mike
said another way
a group set-up and adjusted for one type of ammo will not necessarily be adjusted properly for another ammo. Nowadays, I adjust the set screw stuff in a special group with "Worse case scenario pin tolerances", and a Magnum hammer spring is used. In this manner, I can be certain that a person using these parts will not have any sort of engagement problem. :t
a group set-up and adjusted for one type of ammo will not necessarily be adjusted properly for another ammo. Nowadays, I adjust the set screw stuff in a special group with "Worse case scenario pin tolerances", and a Magnum hammer spring is used. In this manner, I can be certain that a person using these parts will not have any sort of engagement problem. :t
go for 2#
i have seen this with PC hammer and sear and aguila super max and this group was no where near 1.5#. unless you are dedicated to shooting hyper velocity ammo it can be done. can you really tell the difference between 1.5# and 2# really. i can with a trigger pull scale but not with the finger. mine is at 2# and i'm fine there. i've had a real light one 14oz. she was and deadly too but not with all factory parts. you are walking a razor edge with factory stuff just pony up the $$$ and get a few after market goodies. skeeter's stuff is a good place to start. keep :snipersmi
i have seen this with PC hammer and sear and aguila super max and this group was no where near 1.5#. unless you are dedicated to shooting hyper velocity ammo it can be done. can you really tell the difference between 1.5# and 2# really. i can with a trigger pull scale but not with the finger. mine is at 2# and i'm fine there. i've had a real light one 14oz. she was and deadly too but not with all factory parts. you are walking a razor edge with factory stuff just pony up the $$$ and get a few after market goodies. skeeter's stuff is a good place to start. keep :snipersmi
is the glass half full, half empty, or, just the wrong size glass???koettle said:
we're sayin YOU'RE setting it up, and YOU'RE the one who knows what YOU will be doin w/ it, what YOU will be feeding it, and how YOU will be handling it... so, only YOU can determine that.....every set of parts is different, so NO ONE can know for sure what, if any mods are "safe" in your gun, w/ your ammo, and your handling habits
just like choosing the right barrel, chamber, stock, scope, etc...this info is to help you when you decide to make these rifles do one particular thing better than stock...... but, when you fine tune for one application, you MAY/probably affect how it performs other jobs.... i would never set up a trigger for a professional gator hunter to throw in the bottom of a john boat and get kicked around the same as i do my "match" triggers.........
if you're lookin for a drop in solution for a <1lb trigger that is perfectly safe for any and all uses, you need to consider a kidd or other new designs..
this is fine tuning info..... it's only good for just that.....fine tuning for YOUR application.......
i'll be the first to say that these have ALOT of safety issues that must be dealt w/ in some way...... some can be dealt with by making adjustments to the parts, some just have to be dealt with by using good technique/sense... and due to how variable these things are, only the person doing the actuall work can know what is and isn't "safe" w/ any particular set of parts... the same as only the shooter can control when it's loaded and what it points at
if you're lookin for "lawyer proof" action mods that can be done w/o any regard to safety, THESE AIN'T THEM!!!!!!!!!!!
THESE AIN'T FOR BEGINNERS!!!.... unless you use the good sense to practice extremely good firearms safety, and are prepared to deal w/ the problems if you've made a mistake......
these are toys.....and, there is no reason for anyone to get hurt over them...it just isn't worth it!....
if you have doubt about your setup or the ability to do the mods, you can always print off the info, and take it to your local gunsmith and discuss it w/ him.... discuss your safety and performance needs, and see what he says.. you never know...he may get a much better setup goin for ya, using the same mods but w/ better technique from many yrs of workin gun parts...
these little rifles seem to be "gateway" guns for alot of folks...whether as shooters, or to get your feet wet tinkerin..... parts are cheap, readily available, why not???...... this is wonderful, and is plenty of folks here to help us, but, YOU'VE got to make sure that you do safe and thorough testing of everthing before you place yours or someone else life/property at risk...
later
cletus
Well said cletus.
My bench 10/22 has a home grown 12 oz. all Ruger parts trigger and is perfectly safe at the bench with we or SQUAWSACH behind it. However, neither of us would take it squirrel hunting. It just isn't appropriate or safe enough to be hauling around the woods and at 9+ pounds not very comfortable either. The SuperStock Wal-Mart rifle that we're building has a 2 lb 2 oz trigger that feels great, is perfectly safe for anyone and will go squirrel hunting.
Also, as far as I'm concerned if the trigger is tuned and functioning properly it will handle all ammo.
Once again I agree with cletus. Good luck
sawdust
My bench 10/22 has a home grown 12 oz. all Ruger parts trigger and is perfectly safe at the bench with we or SQUAWSACH behind it. However, neither of us would take it squirrel hunting. It just isn't appropriate or safe enough to be hauling around the woods and at 9+ pounds not very comfortable either. The SuperStock Wal-Mart rifle that we're building has a 2 lb 2 oz trigger that feels great, is perfectly safe for anyone and will go squirrel hunting.
Also, as far as I'm concerned if the trigger is tuned and functioning properly it will handle all ammo.
Once again I agree with cletus. Good luck
sawdust
Getting the pull weight this low is easy. Getting it to work properly is another story. I've built numerous trigger groups with sub 2# pulls that had to be redone due to double taps or the hammer following the bolt. That's why I try to stay around 2.5-3# in the groups I build today.
The trigger return spring has a lot to do with pull weight. I use a torsion spring which is smoother but a bit heavier than the stock spring/plunger setup.
swampf0x
The trigger return spring has a lot to do with pull weight. I use a torsion spring which is smoother but a bit heavier than the stock spring/plunger setup.
swampf0x
I did mine using this method and was very pleased. Years ago my friends took my Dremel away from me . Now I use an arkansa stone. My trigger is set at 11 oz and is 100 percent reliable for my bench gun.
I did replace it with a KIDD 3/3 oz trigger just to see how good it is. Now I have a complete setup for my next 10-22 sitting in a box waiting to be used.
Dremels are dangerous. I do have some use for them like when I'm cutting off the hammer spurs on some revolvers but that's about it.
. Now I use an arkansa stone. My trigger is set at 11 oz and is 100 percent reliable for my bench gun.I did replace it with a KIDD 3/3 oz trigger just to see how good it is. Now I have a complete setup for my next 10-22 sitting in a box waiting to be used.
Dremels are dangerous. I do have some use for them like when I'm cutting off the hammer spurs on some revolvers but that's about it.
deja vu all over again...can't believe I remembered reading this when it was first written in '06 🦖
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