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Old 05-08-2017, 02:33 PM
fourbore is online now
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Volquartsen upgrade question



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I just installed the Mk II kit VC2AK-S into my Mk III. This is a MK II kit. This replaces the magazine disconnect with a bushing and I have new sear, hammer and trigger with assorted little parts.

Its all in, gun fires. BUT, I have a 1 1/4 pound trigger. This feels great. I am worried that I have the wrong sear for the gun, even though I read on the VQ sit that this ws the kit to purchase if I wanted the bushing to eliminate the magazine disconnect.

I notice the magazine disconnect had a little spring that may or may not apply pressure to the sear. It is near the sear. That spring is gone with the disconnect. I do have the new sear spring installed with the new sear.

Am I ok with 1 1/4 pounds) or did I get the wrong parts?

Edit: I test fired 10 rounds. No problem. Great in fact.
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:32 PM
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edlmann
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Hold on to the old parts you removed . . .

Sometimes people have an issue with the trigger resetting. Installing the stock spring and plunger may fix any such problem.


Last edited by edlmann; 05-08-2017 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:00 PM
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I used all the VQ parts, except the bolt release. I prefer the small out of the way stock bolt release. Are you suggesting I put the old trigger spring back to increase the pull by 1/2 pound?

I double checked, the parts are installed correctly (sear spring etc) as far as I can see. And everything is functional. No problem with trigger resetting. I plan to go ahead and do more shooting.

I took a few more reading on the pull and I have some doubt about the accuracy of the gauge. I got reading closer to or 1 1/2 +/- since I first posted.

I called VQ and they offered to look at the gun if I want to send it in. I am not going to do that, not now - maybe later. VQ confirmed I have the right parts kit and the expected pull is 2 pounds. Something maybe out of spec (Ruger or VQ) or I did the install wrong (but no example given and I dont see how).

I like the new trigger and may just do some shooting. Possibly get a 2nd pull gauge. And, I hope to collect some more input from RFC. I should have done this upgrade sooner. The focus is moved to Mk IV these days. Those with Mk III did the mods last year.

It also seems the trigger stop screw is a bit on the short side. I think I have a 6-32 x 3/8 where a 7/16 might be just about the perfect length. A little detail.

I cannot help but think how much easier life is when buying quality up front instead of having to fix up junk later. Not saying ruger is junk but the ruger trigger with magazine disconnect is junk.

Last edited by fourbore; 05-08-2017 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:10 PM
KTGunsmithing
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Originally Posted by fourbore View Post
I used all the VQ parts, except the bolt release. I prefer the small out of the way stock bolt release. Are you suggesting I put the old trigger spring back to increase the pull by 1/2 pound?
That's what I'd suggest. The trigger pull difference between the stock and VQ reduced power trigger (plunger) spring is usually 6 - 8 oz. Right at the 1/2 lb you want.
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Old 05-09-2017, 12:00 AM
FredVK
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I'm sure you have the correct sear, which gives you that better creep free crisper break. Pull out the VQ trigger spring that came with the kit and reinstall the original Ruger one. I had the same issue with my MKIII Hunter when I installed the VQ parts. The trigger pull was just too light for my liking, 25 oz. I reinstalled the stock Ruger trigger spring. The stiffer spring bumped the pull weight up to 33 oz, just over two pounds. This will also ensure a more positive trigger reset. If you're happy with the way your trigger is now, fine. But there is a point where lighter is not always better. Its a crisp break you want, even at a heavier pull weight.

Last edited by FredVK; 05-09-2017 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:00 AM
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Excellent, thank you all. I now have good confidence with where I am at. I am going with the current 1.5 and see how it plays out. My safety should come from the sear spring. Unless, I get aggressive on the adjustments. That leads to my next question.

Has there been a good discussion on the VQ trigger adjustment? The pull is very smooth now. It does not disrupt my aim. I left a little pre-travel slack because I like the 2stage feel. It not a 2stage, I just mean I like the feel. There is a lot of sear engagement. And I suppose that is good. I am considering taking up all the slack and some of the sear engagement too allow me to better call my shots.

Any tips or pointers to video or RFC discussion on that trigger adjustments.

Does it help to make a jig and use a dial indicator on the trigger movement? What are you all doing?
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:00 AM
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There has been a lot of discussion about the VQ trigger adjustments and you cannot take out all of the pretravel and have the trigger reset. Rugers have to have a little room to work.
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:09 AM
fourbore is online now
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OK, then I am good to go. Thank you.

This trigger upgrade was well worth the effort. Some one said the bushing was a loose fit to the hammer. I found it as tight as it could be reasonable. Maybe that changed. I like the one stop shopping and no question that all the parts work together. And they do. Competition and choices are great, but; I am glad I got a whole kit from Volquartsen. I like everything except the spelling

Last edited by fourbore; 05-09-2017 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:25 AM
KTGunsmithing
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Originally Posted by fourbore View Post
Does it help to make a jig and use a dial indicator on the trigger movement? What are you all doing?
No jig and indicator required.

I adjust by feel. As you mentioned I leave a little "extra" pre-travel because I like the 2 stage feel. Some pre-travel (take-up) is necessary for the disconnector to reset.

Over-travel I adjust with the upper removed. I adjust in over-travel until the sear doesn't drag on the hammer thru its' travel.

Minimize the over-travel so the trigger just barely breaks. Then take down the gun so the upper's off. Hold the trigger back and move the hammer thru its' arc. You'll feel the hammer drag against the sear. I adjust in over-travel 'til it doesn't drag. If nothing else it simplifies re-assembly because the when you hold the trigger back the hammer can swing forward under its' own weight without having to be pushed.
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Old 05-09-2017, 02:14 PM
fourbore is online now
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I was thinking if I was going to reduce sear engagement it could get tricky, and need some way to judge. I hate the bump test. I can leave a little take up no problem.

I like the tip about looking inside to fine tune the stop.

I ordered some nylon tip set screws for the stop. Just for yucks.

Last edited by fourbore; 05-09-2017 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 05-09-2017, 02:26 PM
KTGunsmithing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbore View Post
I was thinking if I was going to reduce sear engagement it could get tricky...
You really can't reduce sear engagement with the trigger screws. Too little pre-travel and the disconnector just won't engage the sear. The amount of sear engagement isn't affected. Too little over-travel and the trigger won't move the sear enough for the hammer to fall. Again the amount of engagement won't change, just the triggers' ability to move the sear enough to release the hammer.
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Old 05-09-2017, 03:13 PM
fourbore is online now
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I understand.
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:35 PM
Racer X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTGunsmithing View Post
You really can't reduce sear engagement with the trigger screws. Too little pre-travel and the disconnector just won't engage the sear. The amount of sear engagement isn't affected. Too little over-travel and the trigger won't move the sear enough for the hammer to fall. Again the amount of engagement won't change, just the triggers' ability to move the sear enough to release the hammer.
And if you try and adjust it to the nth degree, big temp swings can cause a problem as the metal expands or contracts.

I borrowed a friends supertuned Mark II, and when it was cold, @35 degrees ambient early in the morning, it wouldn't reset the trigger. You needed to push it forward and you could hear a faint click when it moved a fraction of a mm. I backed off on the adjustment a 1/4 turn, and it fixed it. When it warmed up to 80 ambient a few days later mid afternoon, it was a bit sloppy. A wee turn to tighten it up fixed it.

A minute amount of slack is needed in these, in my experience. My polymer 22/45 isn't as finicky as my Mark III.
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer X View Post
And if you try and adjust it to the nth degree, big temp swings can cause a problem as the metal expands or contracts.

I borrowed a friends supertuned Mark II, and when it was cold, @35 degrees ambient early in the morning, it wouldn't reset the trigger. You needed to push it forward and you could hear a faint click when it moved a fraction of a mm. I backed off on the adjustment a 1/4 turn, and it fixed it. When it warmed up to 80 ambient a few days later mid afternoon, it was a bit sloppy. A wee turn to tighten it up fixed it.

A minute amount of slack is needed in these, in my experience. My polymer 22/45 isn't as finicky as my Mark III.
Very good point and what some folks refuse to accept or understand. Another variable that I've been mentioning for quite some time now is the factor involved with the sear pin, hammer bushing pin & trigger pivot pin hole locations and the tolerances involved with those, along with the diameter size of each pivot pin hole and whether they are in perfect alignment to one another at each side of the grip frame of if the "basic" dimensions are at the extreme of the +/- tolerances.
It just can't be expected, or one should not just succumb to a definite range whereby the pull weight will change with a specific spring, or not. There is a range with tolerances that's also involved with the spring compression and poundage held rate. To ignore that, is just foolish. The ONLY way to measure what any change was that did, or did not, happen, is with an accurate trigger pull gauge and an average of X-number of readings with the before and then, after the changed parts were installed.
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