Question Please. I had my TRP-3 (laminate stock) bedded and new allen head action screws made for it. Problem is the front action screw was made a little long and is bottoming out when it screws into the recoil lug. It comes to an abrupt halt. I noticed this when I took the action out of the stock and the recoil lug was loose. I cleaned the threads on the set screw that holds the recoil lug in place and put blue locktite on them. I think the screw being a little long caused this. I`m sure the front action screw should be shortened but thought I would ask before I attempted my ******* gunsmithing. What are your thoughts on this matter? As always, Thanks.
Don't suppose you have the original to shorten and double check eh? My ACE hardware store has common gun screws and your LGS may have one for a nominal fee, or less.
No, the original screws were not returned with the rifle. I think the action screw bottomed out on the allen set screw that holds the recoil lug in place. When I loosened the action screw it was in contact with the allen set screw and caused it to loose also. I`m sure I need to shorten the action screw a bit, but wanted to double check before I flubbed something up. Think I`ll call Cooper in the morning to pose the question to them. Thanks Al, Les
now that the recoil lug has moved on the action, you have lost the value of the bedding job, and because the action screw was bottomed out during the bedding process, it was a bum job from the start. find a gunsmith next time - not a blacksmith
Was supposed to be top notch in Texas. 22 years experience. Action was held in place with surgical tubeing wrapped tight around it and not the action screws. How is the bedding job affected by the long action screw?????????? Enlighten me.
If you have a bench grinder, you can shorten that action screw just a bit by slowly, carefully and evenly grinding down the end. I doubt you have to remove much -- maybe several thousandths. I've done it a number of times, not difficult. Just a slight bit off at a time as the screw will get HOT (and maybe take off too much) if you grind too long. I touch the end to the grinding wheel for maybe a couple seconds at a time. If needed, the end of the threads can be dressed up a bit with a Swiss Pattern file.
First check that the screw is actually hitting. Take a marking pen and and put a mark on the screw head, then with the action out of the stock count how many turns it takes to bottom in the action. Then do the same with with it in the stock. If the turns are exactly the same then it is indeed bottoming. Simply grind or file the screw one thread at a time and recheck.
One other thing to check is that the new screws have enough thread so that the un-threaded shoulder isn't whats hitting.
To dbr65 and DennisD. I did exactly what you two have sugested. Gerat minds think alike. I screwed the action screw into the recoil lug with the action out of the stock. 8 turns. I then put the action in the stock and screwed the action screw in. 8 turns again. I went to Ace Hdwe. this morning and bought a nut to fit the screw, threaded it on the screw and went to the bench grinder. I took off about three threads, and when I backed off the nut the threads cleaned up nice. A little file work made the job look even better. Funny thing was that when I shot the rifle yesterday, I shot six 3 shot groups at 100 yds. that measured under one inch each. There was no noticiable wind yesterday. As I told Hickory Nut, If the rifle shoots even better now since the screw is not bottoming out, I will hurt myself jumping for joy. Thanks for all the help guys.:bthumb:
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