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trigger work

131K views 121 replies 77 participants last post by  DIMDave 
#1 ·
Can someone tell me how to lighten and smooth out the trigger pull on my Marlin 25MN in .22WMR? I saw a post about a "spring trick" but it didnt explain how. I would like to know how this is done, or any other advice anyone can give me to clean up that trigger at home. As a side note, im getting 1.5 inch groups at 100 yds with remingtons new 33 grain poly tips, most accurate load ive found yet. Does anyone have experience with these loads on live critters?
 
#2 ·
I posted this on another site, and will post it here for you.

I have had a 17VS for several months now, and it is a dream to shoot. I have a Simmons AETEC 3.8x12.44AO scope on mine, that a local shop sells for $135.



Another one.



And one more.



I have only been able to shoot it a 50 yards so far, as we are having dirt work done on our rifle range. The group on the right, by the dime, is 5 shots with the 17 at 50 yards, the center is my son shooting his 22 mag.



The factory trigger wasn't the best in the world. I changed out the spring with a spring from a papermate ink pen, about $1.00 at the local Office Max. It made all the difference in the world. This works on all of the Marlin bolt guns.



Take the lower screw out of the trigger, slip the trigger out, and the spring on the back side of the trigger is the one that you change out. Takes it from 6+ pounds to a nice ~3 to 3.5 lb trigger.



After you do this, be sure to check it over and over to make sure it is safe. Bump it with your hand, bump it on the floor, and check it over and over again.

I can't wait to get out and shoot some squirrels and crows with this gun. The great thing about the 17 is that when you pull the trigger, the gun never moves. You just hear the pop and see the hole appear in the target. I have chrono'd my loads right at 2600 fps from my rifle.

Good shooting.
 
#3 ·
Thanks a bunch for that trigger work info. I had it done in less than 10 minutes, couldnt get it to missfire, so everything looks good. I did something similar to that on an old single shot remington .22, but in that situation I just started clipping the spring a little at a time. Cant wait to try out the marlin this weekend on some crows. thanks again, Tincody.
 
#5 ·
Mr Chitlin,

I found a similar spring in one of the pens laying around the house. A couple of minutes later, had it installed in the 25N. I don't have a trigger scale, but it feels much lighter.

Thanks for the excellent pictures.

Now I just need to get shooting this weekend.

(BTW, the pen did not work at all with that heavy Marlin spring in there. So it's labeled and thrown in the small-parts box, where it will gather dust forever.)

Regards.
 
#6 ·
justabozo said:

(BTW, the pen did not work at all with that heavy Marlin spring in there. So it's labeled and thrown in the small-parts box, where it will gather dust forever.)

Regards.
Glad this helps. It definitely is not my original idea, it was passed on to me by someone else.

I am the same way with my springs. I kept my springs, in the case that I did ever sell one of these guns, not that I am expecting to, though. Then I would put it back to the factory original condition.

Safe shooting. :t
 
#7 ·
Mr. Chitlin,
That's one nice post above. I really appreciated it. I was scanning the Marlin board to get recommendations on a trigger spring for my 17 VS.
Thank you,
Ken
 
#14 ·
Changing the spring out helps ALLOT .However, if your at all handy, get a very fine ceramic stone ( knife sharpener) and CAREFULY buff the interfacing surfaces of the trigger and sear knotch. ( Shown to right of trigger post in pic above.) DON"T change the depth or shape of either piece, just smoothen out the surface . 5-10 light runs accross both surfaces should do it. This will knock another # or even 2 off and make it break even cleaner. Check again for safety by repeatedly closing the bolt and jarring the gun. BE CAREFULL AND DON"T ATEMPT IF YOUR UNSURE.
 
#16 ·
I am a new member, thanks to everyone for the info in the site.

Hardware info:
25mn
3x7x20 BSA Scope
Free floated barrel
Pen spring trigger


I have a 25mn. I changed the spring with a pen spring, and free floated the barrel. Since the changes, I was only able to shoot at a 25 yard indoor range. I shot many 5 shot groups all almost in one hole, much smaller then a dime. (33 Gr V-max ammo) I was only using a front rest. With a rear bag, I am sure they all would be in the same hole. The pen spring made a huge difference, the stock spring must be about 10 pounds. This is the best free modification.
 
#18 ·
I tried it in my 882(stainless/.22 WMR) and it doesn't work for some reason. When I close the bolt the gun "fires" without even touching the trigger.(dry fire obviously) I tried 2 different springs and neither worked. I think they are too light. I am gonna go get the exact pen you guys are using tomorrow. Hopefully it will work.
 
#19 ·
OK, i got the exact pen pictured and still no luck. :( I need a spring in between the stock one and the papermate one. Anybody have any suggestions.

p.s. i polished the entire trigger assembly. cleaned and lubed everything. no luck with the lighter spring still. my triger is a lot smoother now though. :)
 
#20 ·
OKsubaru,

The shipping is more than the spring but I've had great success with the spring from a Marlin 2000 target rifle.

Numrich has them for a few bucks. While you're there, consider getting the sear from the 2000 or 2000a as well. Does an amazing job of removing the creep in the pre T-900 triggers.
 
#22 ·
OKsubaru,

Yes, both the trigger spring and the sear from a Marlin 2000/2000a/2000L target rifle work. Between the two of them, you get a VERY sweet drop in trigger "fix" for about $15.00. Best part, the entire mod uses Marlin parts, helps quite the nay sayers that think we need to live with POS factory triggers.

A couple guys have had minor issues with the safety. In some, once the 2000 sear is in, if they put the safely on, pull the trigger really hard then take the safely off, the sear will trip. One of mine will do it, but like I said, you've got to pull the trigger really hard to get it to misbehave and since mine are all used at the range, and I never trust the safety anyway, I don't worry about it.

Good luck, and keep it safe!
 
#24 ·
I finally got to the range with my newly modified 883. The first group of three, shot at fifty yards was completely covered with a nickel. :) Unfortunatley the groups gradually deteriorated from there, it seems that I have a problem with the scope that came with this used rifle. Oh well, I'll put a different scope on it and go again. I'm also going to hone the sear and trigger as is suggested above.
 
#25 ·
OKsubaru said:
thanks for the help. i did notice when i forced the trigger mechanism to work properly with the papermate spring it felt A LOT better. Looks like i'll have to order those parts now. :)
I just tried the 2000 sear and a new trigger in mine tonight. I got the same problems. After playing with it for quite a while( including polishing the paint off of the bump on the sear), I came to the conclusion that the spring was too short. Not too light, but too short. This was using the 2000 spring. So I stretched it out a tad( a millimeter probably). This of course pre-tensions it, but the length is what I was aiming for. Works like a charm now. So either try a longer spring, or stretch your current one. I can cock it real fast, and it doesn't go off. One thing that lead me to think it was the length of the spring is, if you point the gun up when you cock it, it will go off.......because the weight of the trigger is holding it off of the sear.....and the short spring isn't holding it on. If you point the gun down, the weight of the trigger keeps it engaged with the sear, even though the spring isn't doing anything.....and it holds. A longer spring gets rid of all of that.

I definitely don't need the paper mate on mine. I basically put my finger on the trigger, and when I start THINKING about pulling it, it just goes off. Kind of like telepathy or something. :D

Gene
 
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