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  #16  
Old 03-17-2017, 08:48 PM
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Thanks Vincent.
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  #17  
Old 03-18-2017, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkeye57 View Post
Looking Good
I think the shading of the checkering will be OK as you have it.


When I was a kid, in the early 60's. My Dad had a cabinet shop. He worked mostly with walnut.
Once I could firmly grip a sanding block, I was a helper.
Once the smell of walnut dust gets in you , your hooked.
Yes you are right it is okay but I don't think I 'nailed it' if you know what I mean. Trial and error.

I started working with wood around the same time.

Sad to say I am allergic to walnut dust. The bare wood smell is okay. Same for a few other species like red wood for one.

I love birch and alder. Do not make me sneeze. Red oak is in between but closer to the cleaner side than not as far as I am concerned.

Absolutely agree 100% with you and Vincent that the 'smell test' is fool proof. Heck, if you know what walnuts smell like you know walnut wood when you smell it. And yet, even when told, it still escapes some people that it could really be that simple.
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  #18  
Old 03-18-2017, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tsb3 View Post
Hey 86c, what is this slurry sand? I have not heard of that before.
Sorry for the delay.

Here is the definitive guide provided by the RFC house pro wood finishing expert.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/rfcftp...%20SANDING.pdf

Some swear by it. Judging from some of the photos I have seen on RFC it must be THE way to go.

However, I have yet to be happy with it. To date, my preferred method of pore fill remains applying shellac using the french polish method and sanding back when necessary to get a glass smooth finish.

I did start out using the slurry sand method on the three stocks I have done in the last 6 months and wind up unhappy with the result w/o filling with shellac. For one thing, in ever case, by the time I get the 'sludge' on the surface removed and ready for finish I am lucky if the pores are even half way full. No doubt the method works if you stick with it long enough. However, having the pores be of the color of the wood is over rated imo if one is NOT using dyes to dye the wood itself and I am NOT using dyes for color I am using naturally tinted shellac.

Not saying I am never going to use it again but for me the best way is to just get right with the shellac instead. Then, instead of wet sanding the wood, I dry sand the shellac as needed until the surface is glass smooth and back down to bare wood or close to it. THEN further applications of shellac using french polish method works great.
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  #19  
Old 03-18-2017, 07:09 PM
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Buttons first coat shellac: super blonde tinted with a few drops of orange&ruby

Result is a chocolate brown. Not too keen on the color. Will get sanded back for finishing the pore fill and it will get a different blend of shellac next time. Platina plus a bit of orange. This particular stock finishes up considerably darker than the last two.

About 20 minutes to apply using French polish method. As you can see in the photo, since it is only the first application the depth is not there yet and the sheen is quite low still. As always, takes longer to document and explain than it does to actually do.




Last edited by 86c; 03-18-2017 at 07:12 PM.
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  #20  
Old 03-19-2017, 01:17 PM
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Great explanation....

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86c View Post
Sorry for the delay.

Here is the definitive guide provided by the RFC house pro wood finishing expert.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/rfcftp...%20SANDING.pdf

Some swear by it. Judging from some of the photos I have seen on RFC it must be THE way to go.

However, I have yet to be happy with it. To date, my preferred method of pore fill remains applying shellac using the french polish method and sanding back when necessary to get a glass smooth finish.

I did start out using the slurry sand method on the three stocks I have done in the last 6 months and wind up unhappy with the result w/o filling with shellac. For one thing, in ever case, by the time I get the 'sludge' on the surface removed and ready for finish I am lucky if the pores are even half way full. No doubt the method works if you stick with it long enough. However, having the pores be of the color of the wood is over rated imo if one is NOT using dyes to dye the wood itself and I am NOT using dyes for color I am using naturally tinted shellac.

Not saying I am never going to use it again but for me the best way is to just get right with the shellac instead. Then, instead of wet sanding the wood, I dry sand the shellac as needed until the surface is glass smooth and back down to bare wood or close to it. THEN further applications of shellac using french polish method works great.
86c, Thanks for the explanation. I am going to do some reading up on this subject, as I may be refinishing a walnut stock in the near future.
I think that buttons is looking great!
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  #21  
Old 03-19-2017, 03:08 PM
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I like the color and the stock is very pretty. Nice work!

I just got my old DSP in the mail two days ago that will be used in my SuperSport rifle which be the only heavy barrel 10/22 I have ever had!

I figured I will have to refinish but, a buttplate style stock that has to be at least 15 years old, and there are only 2 tiny dents less than 1/8th inch long! These older stocks also have a clearer finish than the newer ones it seems. I got lucky with this stock!
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Old 03-19-2017, 05:59 PM
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Well then you need PICTURES to prove it or else it don't exist.

My old(est) DSP is from the late 90s (I am original owner) and it is a rubber butt-plate. However, it is, and always was, smooth/hard rubber with very little grip. I like that, rubber doesn't get messed up very easy.

My 50th DSP has VERY grippy rubber. I hate it. Going to make a hard/tooled leather butt plate for it someday and a sling to match. I am not a great leather-crafter but not bad by any means and I have done my share of carving artwork into leather with a swivel knife.

Plastic with checking is best all around compromise imo. Durable, no snag and no slip either.
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  #23  
Old 03-19-2017, 06:32 PM
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86c, Thanks for the explanation. I am going to do some reading up on this subject, as I may be refinishing a walnut stock in the near future.
I think that buttons is looking great!
Thank you. Definitely you can find a lot of GREAT info here on RFC in the refinishing section even if you are an experienced wood finisher. Maybe even better info if you are experienced wood finisher.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...play.php?f=275


After a second 20 minute application plus 20 minutes of rubbing out with alcohol and natural lighting vs fluorescent lighting above. Not the highest gloss level I have achieved with french polish. I would say 'medium' gloss level not low-sheen and not high-gloss (yet).











I will be sanding it back a good ways to do the "leveling" in order to get it smooth as glass w/o any depressions from the pores. Imo, high-gloss "mirror" finish does not look good if the entire surface is not glass-smooth.

To me, the checking looks good. However, I don't really like the gloss on the points. Looks a bit 'tacky' to me. To flatten it I will probably spray it with acrylic lacquer to leave a "matte" finish on it that will make it appear more like semi-gloss.

Last edited by 86c; 03-19-2017 at 06:37 PM.
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  #24  
Old 03-20-2017, 05:58 PM
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Beautiful.....

86c, The last two photos of your stock, the full side photos, just a beautiful stock! Just the right amount of shine, nice color and great grain! IMHO.
So, if you get tired of working on that thing.... I know of a great home for it!!
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  #25  
Old 03-22-2017, 09:33 AM
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Thank you. I will let you know if I decide to let it go.

When its done it will look the same in photos but in person it will be better than it is now.

It really does appear a LOT darker in any other light/angle combination. I had to spend a few minutes taking photos to get two that showed the grain/figuring.

Unlike the carbine shown earlier outdoors with the alcohol can. That thing looks great in any light/angle with the right finish. Took some experimenting with the shade/tint of shellac to get it that way. Going to try to do the same with this one. Easier to do than to explain.

Last edited by 86c; 03-22-2017 at 09:41 AM.
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  #26  
Old 03-22-2017, 10:19 AM
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Very,very nice.

I am by no means even a beginner level wood worker. Have only done two stocks since my last wood shop class in 1971

Did my "Groovy" SuperStock with Tuck Finger Groove with Arrow Wood oil which is a linseed with some small amount of additives. Beautiful stock with so-so finish. I am not into very shiny finish which is a good thing because I doubt I could do a good one!! Tuck had already started it with the Arrow Wood and all the advice I got here was that it was best to "not change horses in mid stream" as our wood guru put it. I agreed fully:




Need to get back to it as the pores are not even filled all the way although that is not a huge deal with me. This is about 12 or 13 coats after I got it from Tuck. The stock was the last one he made and was going to be his own but I caught him at a good time and was very lucky to get it. Badly needs a full glass bed too. Gonna have to get off my butt because now I have two projects going at same time.

Love your DSP!!
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Last edited by Vincent; 03-22-2017 at 10:28 AM.
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  #27  
Old 03-23-2017, 02:30 PM
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That thing is a beauty as-is. And it has a 'story' as they say. Unlike mine which were bought used in ROUGH condition specifically because I wanted to screw around with the modifying and refinishing.

There are lots of factory finished stocks, including nicely figured walnut ones that look good including both of my DSPs that I bought new. However, both of those WILL be much nicer when redone and when I get to those I will know in advance exactly how to get them perfect the first time thru w/o any experiments.

Completely filling the pores to get a 'glass smooth' finish is all but mandatory for a high-gloss finish or a satin finish, imo. For a semi-gloss and/or matte-finish I don't think it matters one bit. What you have with groovy is what I would call a 'flat' finish and that is fine with or w/o pore-fill. Just me take on it.
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  #28  
Old 03-24-2017, 10:36 PM
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I agree and I like this kind of finish especially on a hunting rifle (Groovy is unlikely to hunt in my generation or the next). I do not think hunting rifles should have highly reflective surfaces but I can not prove it is a bad thing either.

Groovy is likely to get some more shine but it will never be like yours.
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